Mopar1973Man

Damages... The pump seal gave up was pushing diesel fuel into the shaft bearing which is now wiped out. So here is the shaft bearing and it gone. So when the bearing started to fail last few weeks I've noticed the pump was louder than normal but pressure was good. Sorry for the fingers... Now the brushes are wiped out too. Overall appearance... Looks sad over 12 years of road grime... I was lucky and remembered I'd saved my AirDog label when I found it on the shop floor. It was tucked in a notebook.

After all these years of service my AirDog as of today blew the fuse and drop the fuel pressure to ZERO. ISSPro Gauge lit the low pressure light just as I drove out of the yard. I shut down the engine the truck bump the starter to see if the pump comes on. Nope. Get back in the yard and check the fuse. 20 amp fuse blew. With it in the shop now I replaced the fuse and just bumped the starter. The pump came on and sounded rather rough. Lasted about 60 second and went quiet with a snap under the hood. Fuse blew again. I've already call Pureflow to see if I can get parts and it might be difficult being the serial number tag fell off long ago. I'm going to see if I can repair my pump and get it going again.

You good. I was looking for the bigger 35 to 37 inch tires with 3.55 gear which creates a whole new problem. But you just fine the final ratio is good and high making the load on the engine really low.

Same here I've been wearing glass lens for so many years that glass does bother me one bit. I've been wearing glasses since 11 years old. I've even tried contacts and hated them. Always got dirty hands and digging in your eyes sucked. Back to glasses I went. Yeah, your right for two pairs is about $200 what I paid for my two. I will admit glass holds up the best from what I know. I figured for the price I'd give the poly a shot and see how they hold up. Next set will most likely be bifocals being my close range is getting rather thin. Dang I hate standing in the store and holding a box or can in your hand arm length to read the damn thing. I don't wanna get old!

Live data tool would be handy to see the engine load number and rail pressure. Any error codes?

If your tires were not so big you could. I tow all the time in 5th gear and never lost the 5th gear nut. Oversized tires do kill transmissions because of the excessive low final ratio. With 3.55 gear you should look into the 245's for a tire size that would get the final ratio right. Either that or regear to 4.10 gear so you can keep your larger tires. Looking cool comes at a price. 315/75 R16 (35") tires with 4.10 gear would give you a final ratio of 3.75:1. 285/75 R16 (33") tires with 3.55 gears would give you a final ratio of 3.42:1 rather low for towing. 245/75 R16 (30") tires with 3.55 gears would give you a final ratio of 3.69:1 ratio close to the 3.73 range. Optimal towing and highway runner. Skip the dry weight... Use the GVWR weight always! Like my Jayco claims a 6,588 pounds dry weight. (when pigs fly). GVWR is 8,500 pounds. Actual weight it typically around 8,000 pounds.

I hope not...

Could you post up your axle gear ratio and tire size. This plays a huge role in if you can control smoke and EGT's. Could you export you tune and upload it to the post as an attachment so we can look at your settings.

I would investigate the crank sensor. Dropping of tach signal can prevent starting also prevent the lift pump from firing up. Kind of hard to read the gauge if it's under the hood. You need to be able to see the gauge while cranking and driving for proper fuel pressure. So you might be looking at that crank sensor first. Here is the article on the code and how to test. Funny... AC noise possible too.

Might be worth looking into on the 96 Dodge and seeing if I can resolve that issue a bit more. (Sticking on release time).

Now if I can get some free time I want to do the mod too. Just seems like my time is always sucked up so fast. Ugh!

Close enough... Dave is right. The boost pressure is built up in the air intake system and when you drop off the throttle the drive pressure drops away from the turbine. So now the pressure attempts to leave the manifold the easiest way it can by blowing back out the mouth of the turbo. Since there is no drive pressure on the turbine the boost pressure can spin the shaft backward as the air rushing out the mouth of the turbo. This is harsh on the turbo and possible to break the turbine shaft. Not a Holset turbo but you get the point...

Actually, it's your tires. The 35" tires change your final gear ratio way too low in the 3.1x to 3.2x realm. This adds huge amount of load on the engine typically creates way more heat both coolant and EGT's. Now if the axles where regeared for 4.10 this topic wouldn't happen. Most people choke when they hear the price of regearing the axle to keep their pretty 35 to 37 inch tires. Fuzzy math. 35" tire with 3.55 gears in the axle has a final ratio of 3.14:1 Like on my truck I'm running 235's with 3.55 gears. Now if I switch over to 245/75 R16 that will change the final gear ratio to 3.7x or so. This would improve my torque output to the ground and allow more pulling power with more speed. Way too many people look at the cool factor but forget about the science of the gears. Tires are just a smooth gear and when you increase tire size you increase engine load because the gear ratio went too low. Optimal towing ratio is right at 3.73.

@Me78569 data log repository... That is one thing I will give Nick he was logging nut. He data logged everything he did.

I think it wild to see diesel power boats that just flat haul . I think its cool that the first boat was a 12V Cummins.

Another reason I hate warranty. It always seems to take long getting something fixed. Even a vehicle with warranty it seems to take forever to get through the channels and get the parts and work done. Like my warranty claim, VP44 at 50k miles took over 8 hours to be installed. Shop labor rate is 4 hours. Now today I can install VP44 in about 1.5 to 2 hours and be running the longest thing is getting the part shipped here. Funny tidbit an extended warranty company sent me a letter that I could get extended warranty on my truck for a price. Here what happened... I'll most likely continue to buy used RV's and used vehicles.

Drop your EGT's to about 1000-1100*F it will hang at about 205-208*F coolant. I got several steep grades here in Idaho and have no issues with cooling or engine temperature. Now if I was to push 1,200 to 1,250*F it can go to 220-225*F engine coolant temperature.

I made it a point to contact @mountaindan on the phone today and try to help him out. Anyone near Dan would be a service to help him out.

You could look at the 911 listing and see if there are other members near you that might be willing to help. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/911-support.html You could ask other members here in the forum to help you. Most guys here are really good at being helpful and helping with doing repairs on trucks. I'd love to help but I'm on the wrong side of the island from you.

Sorry to hear that. All I can say is you might pay more money for taking to a shop and have some shop monkey wildly guessing at the problem charging you large amounts of money. There are things on these truck that is considered maintenance items like injectors. They are supposed to be replaced every 100k to 150k miles for the optimal performance. I know many people will say they ran their injectors over 400k miles and never changed them. Might be true but the fuel economy typically is much lower. Sorry to say 230 bar is junk its way too low and will not atomize the fuel well at all. It will create misfire conditions. This is why some of us are experimenting with high pop pressure about the 330 bar realm to find out if there is anything to gain. Like myself as soon as I can get money ahead I'm planning on pulling my +75HP injectors out and going for (7x0.010) with pop pressure of 330 bar. As the pop pressure goes down the injection event happens early and and not sprayed in fine mist but a squirt. Remember two things are needed for diesel to run well. 1. Compression - Valve lash in good adjustment, cylinder health (good piston rings and no blowby), boost pressure. 2. Fuel - Sprayed in the cylinder in a fine mist at the right time.

All right here...

Tach working? Any P0336 error code? If there is any error code for tach signal (crank sensor) the ECM will not know to start the lift pump. Does the lift pump run when you bump the starter? Is there 12V from the lift pump lead? If not then you looking at sending the ECM for repair. WARNING I do not suggest putting a toggle switch on the lift pump or wiring the lift pump to the key switch. This is a huge safety hazard if you in an accident there is no way to shut down the fuel if you are unconscious. I highly suggest you have the ECM repair then replace the lift pump with an AirDog or FASS with a protection relay so the load of the pump is never on the ECM.

Hype... Typically when the P0121, P0122 or P0123 code is present with the "Dead Pedal" its going to be APPS sensor issue. The bast way to test is to have a live data tool and data log both Engine Load and the APPS sensor together in graph form. The engine load reports the amount of fuel given to the engine. So if the APPS and the Engine Load drop together its a APPS sensor issue. If the APPS sensor stays high and the engine load drops then it could be an ECM issue.

Not a problem...