Mopar1973Man

I was the same way back when @Yankneck696 (Ed Grafton) was around. He used to talk about how the Quadzilla did so much. Now that I've been in the Quadzilla now for nearly 3 years. I can say I could not go back to Edge product or any canned tuner. What is so amazing about the VP44 truck there is no set one tune fits all. Like my tune will not work for @Akaiser21 because of injector and turbo differences. So why did people with canned tuners expect the same? Hence why fuel, timing and boost management much simpler and much cleaner than any canned tuner on the market. I'll admit the smarty touch is next in line which will do the same thing but limited to only 60 HP (CANBus fuel only). This is a very complex tuner and does much more than Quadzilla can for CR Engines. As I've learn there was so much myth and mystery to the VP44 and ECM that if you get down to it. VP44 only controls 2 things. Fuel amount (duration) and timing. Nothing more. What makes the Quadzilla easy is most of the sensors are not used. We get right back to simple tuning without the complex figuring for other sensors (fuel temp or IAT). Since the majority of the time the engine is fully warmed 190*F you can adjust timing to meet IAT temps by advance the full table +1 or retard -1 your choice. The actual name of the game is lower EGT's (more fire burned in the combustion chamber), slightly higher coolant temps (from the fire being more in the combustion chamber) and lower boost because less of the expanding gases are pushing past the turbo. When you engine load rises past your cruise limit set then you want just enough retarded timing to spool the turbo to build power back again so you can quickly return to the cruise state which typically is much lower engine load (fuel duration). Typically my 65 MPH cruise engine load is 17-19%, timing is 22-23* BTDC, EGT's 500-550*F, boost typically 1-2 PSI. Out of cruise timing drops to 16-17* and boost jumps right up. My 55 MPH EGT's are very low like 400-450*F.

As far as I know, there is no way to lift the gear high enough to get the gear to skip a tooth. You would have to remove the gear case cover and remove the gear to change its position.

I will admit it is much much easier to install 1/2 inch pipe insulation on the orifice tube before installing to the truck. It a rather PITA to do it on the truck but not impossible though.

Sure... The entire orifice tube assembly. From the condenser out front to the evaporator at the firewall. This is the device that CREATES the cold. The accumulator is after the evaporator so it's got no performance benefit to cover it. Typically when I stop and the Quadzilla is running the engine for cold down I can open the hood and the accumulator is typically soaking wet and sweating hard core. Cold to the touch even after just climbing a 6% grade. I really doubt you going to gain anything with covering the line after the evaporator. Typically even on a 85*F day I've got to add a bit of heat to the temp setting because the cab is dipping down too COLD!

Funny back when I bought my truck brand new there was all the scare about oils and filters. How Fram was making scrap iron of the engines. It was required to use either Fleetguard or Mopar oil filters. Now years have gone by and people fell away from that and back to Napa, Wix, and other filters. No reports of engine melting down or wearing out premature.

Now after watching the video I thought I'd love to add that to the toolbox. For $500 bucks I can keep the old style torch. Wow those are expensive.

Most likely the rotor plate. That would be the weakest link in the pump. The 3 armed piece next to the main shaft. This piece couples the main shaft to the rotor.

Won't do you any good for my tune. I'm set up for a much smaller turbo (HX35/40 hybrid 60/60/12) and smaller injectors (7 x 0.0085). 17, 20, 23, 26, Max of 27 Running Level 3 I can hold the throttle to the floor empty and never reach 1,200*F. Towing I barely touch 1,100*F with the cruise set for 55 MPH in 4th gear (2,100 RPM) climbing 6% grade with 235/85 R16 tires (3.55 gear) Also, coolant temps never exceed 208-210*F typically.

I would say Industrial Injection would be a better source then. Pay a bit more for the pumps.

T Keyword is "some"... That being said some pumps are built with better pump timing, pressures and volumes and others well didn't get all the love they should have just made the bottom margin. Like that why I may never reach my high mark of 27.2 MPG because the current pump is not built with the same kind of love as the last pump I had. (Midwest SO pump)

Basically it really close to my daily driver tune just less timing so it can build boost easier. Daily driver tune you can crank up the timing quite a bit. I really haven't built a separate tow tune just gone in and drop the timing some on the sliders. The rest is the same.

Here is the boiling point of water at different levels of vacuum. On of the few reason I like to do A/C work at noon at the hottest part of the day and have the customer drive to me. This produces a lot of engine bay heat and all the plumbing is nice and hot. Little vacuum will go a very long ways. https://www.quora.com/What-happens-to-boiling-point-of-water-in-vacuum

Got to ask is it stainless or aluminized? Straight piped or muffled? Ball joint I would suggest staying away from Moog. I'm using AC Delco Ball joint currently and just about to cross 200k miles on them. As for the tie rod ends, I got NAPA parts there. I highly suggest you take it in for alignment afterward even though it just toe setting its worth it.

Fact. Always buy firewood unsplit. There is more wood in an unsplit round than split firewood load. Most of the guys out here that cheat people deliver split firewood. That is one thing I like about my trailer. If you reach 3-foot tall pile you are at 252 cubic feet (just barely under 2 cords) 3 x 7 x 12 = 252 cubic feet. 2 Cords is 256 cubic feet. Then when you stack the split firewood you'll end up with typically a bit more than whatever amount of cords you bought.

Something to point out. Most all the assembly on these truck are put to together without any sealant. If you took it apart and there was no sealant then you put it back together without sealant. Do not add sealant to parts because you think you should.

Between my 235's and 3.55 gears I'm very capable of towing 5th gear. First transmission never had a 5th gear nut issue. Now this transmission (rebuilt Weller Truck with upgraded shaft) I can also tow in 5th gear no issue. No noises at all. I just got to be above 50 MPH to keep 5th. Once I drop below 1,200 on the tach I must down shift. My peak power is right around 1,800 RPM being how I've got my timing set up on the Quad which doesn't force me to turn high RPM for peak power. Which on the OP signature I do not see a tuner so that explains it because the stock ECM tune has a nasty hole in the middle (12-14 degrees) that is all retard timing that creates a huge amount of heat and EGT's.

Yeah, when you go to a Dragon Fire VP44... https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/0470506028df/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcLZBRCnARIsAMPBgF1AeYYHMYeYicpEJ0Ky81zp93EQqjNPd5j747PFh4NT10U2fVZ8CpYaAi1-EALw_wcB

There are lens kits out there to polish and seal the plastic again. How long they last I'm not sure. Might be time to look forward towards better lights. The problem with stock light is that they only use 55w (4.5 amps) halogen bulbs. Still, this is a huge amount of power and the optics are well oh hum quality. I've got a few friends with the 2nd gen factory fog light and I'm not impressed with the light quantity or path. After going down the LED path and picking the PIAA's way different story. Yeah, they are pricey but a fraction of the electrical load 18w (1.5 amps) per light. The beam path is much wider and longer than OEM lights. In the dark nights of winter, the PIAA alone are brighter than my Morimoto HID's. Optics are designed with a good cutoff so not blinding oncoming drivers too. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/147-LP-530-Driving-LED-Light-Kit.aspx With a bit of time, I'm sure you can fit those right in the stock hole. I'm going to do that this summer is getting mine tuck back a bit better but they nearly look factory for size.

Man, that sucks big time. I know what the guys are talking about on the rusty bolts. All I can say is get out the hot knife and heat those up a few cycles and cool them to break the rust bond. The heat trick was past along to me by a old tyme mechanic that passed away. He handed me a rust bolt and nut. I tried to remove the nut from the bolt using any tools he had. Nope, Not happening. I hand it back to him. He heats the bolt up just before it turned red hot. Then quickly tossed it in ice cold water. When he picked it up out of the water then nut came off with his fingers. I've used this trick many times and 90% of the time it still works. It's based on the shock of the extreme heat to the extreme cold. Make me want to get my truck out today and power wash the tail end and get those shackles painted them before they get like yours.

I've got of set of 3 LED bulbs in my bathroom of my Jayco RV. I know they are at least 4 years old. Super bright very low power consumption. What is really cool is my house is completely converted to LED household bulbs and I love going down to the inverter and looking at the house load in the evening it is floating 2-3 Amps. These are now heading into there 2nd year and still going.

Typically I the type that doesn't suggest swapping VP's (SO for HO). I know some people say you can. Yes. There is nothing to hold the gear when the VP44 pump is removed.

P1698 code is the PCM not receiving bus messages. Time to inspect your wiring.

You're welcome...

Even my stock injectors with 150k miles on then when I sent them to DAP for testing the lowest one was like 240 bar (3480 psi). Bottom of stock spec is 293 bar (4250 psi). Stock pop should be 310 bar (4,500psi) and maximum limit is 327 bar (4,750 psi). I would say start with fresh injectors and I bet most of that would clear up.

I used to be strictly wood heat. I use to bring in 10-12 cord and hand split every bit of it. Now with MoparMom with dialysis, I spent the money for the modular heat pump system. Being I've got to run here to dialysis treatments every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The houses won't stay very warm with wood if you're not there. That's why I can get away with so little now. Being I only burn in the dead of winter and when we are home the rest of the time the heat pump is covering the house at a cool 68*F or so. The guest house and shop I've still only got wood heat down there but I can heat the living quarters with oil radiator heater on low keeping the room temp around 40-45*F max. Shop I'll fire up that stove if I'm planning on being in the shop for some time. Other than that I break out the portable propane heater for that quick heat. I was a saw running fool at times.