Mopar1973Man

You not running a lift 9n your truck I'm going to assume the u joint angles are correct. The only u joint that could get weird is the one right at the pinion with axle wrap it might get some bind. Educated guess.

Use what you read here and what you find in your research to make an educated choice.

Yeah tour going to need a flex oil drain line. That's only a band aid for now.

That's doesn't look good. Wastegate rod rubbing the oil return (I think that what I'm looking at).

I was the same way years ago doing my first VP44 replacement. Now I've done so many that it doesn't even phase me and I can just about grab every tool I need before starting. My fast R&R time was in a hay field in a rainstorm I was completed and driving back to the owner's house in a little over 1.5 hours. Trust me you don't want to drop anything or have to crawl out from the tarp over the hood. Makes a good tent and stay dry.

I think the idea of replacement is coming... (Crossing my fingers for you!)

Ummm... I don't think that will work. Trust me the Morimoto HID headlights are awesome the light up way more. You'll only need the standard two bulbs not four bulbs. I'm running the Morimoto D2S HID's. Several other members here are running the Morimoto Mini H1 HID's. I'll admit the D2S are a larger lens and cast more light out on the highway.

edited your post make the link clickable...

There is a lot of history of what happened with Quadzilla. It a nutshell Jacob from DAP bought Quadzilla and fired it back up and Spencer runs the show for Quadzilla now and Me78569 is the software guru behind the scenes that made the Quadzilla what it is today.

I totally agree... I left California back in 1989. Never looked back. As you can see there is a wide range of people and answers provided. All I can say is make a pick for whatever system you like and do the install. While doing the install make sure to get all the parts you need and do it right the first time. It really does suck to have to do a job twice or drop a tank twice.

Sorry, it looks like they are photobucket pictures. Nothing I can do about that. I can tell you that after having a set of Sport Headlights and modified with the relays didn't do much good. Beam pattern was still narrow and not very good. Basically, you need 4 relays, 2 fuses. Kind of hard to explain in text but one relay for low beam and one relay for high beam. The 85 and 86 pins go between hi beam and common or lo beam and common. The 30 has +12V power and 87 goes to the bulb. The common pin of the bulb goes to ground. Tell you the truth you might look into this... These are MUCH brighter and light up more area...

I've bought through RockAuto in the past for A/C parts. Now I tend to stick with NAPA at least if there is a part mix up it much easier to drive to the local store than attempting to box it all back up and get it shipped in the mail. Wait for it... Then Wait some more for the new part to come. This just makes a simple A/C job into 1-week to 2-week project which has happened in the past doing online parts. Trying to get parts too cheap you might run into other issues. I've had in the past where the part was right but the o-rings were wrong. The part fit fine but ended up removing again and replacing all the o-rings because the o-rings were just too small in diameter.

Copy Cat... Stainless Steel rockers... Your paint job looks 100 times better than mine with all the little rock chips in it.

Sure... Give me a call...

Check your personal notifications and see if it's turned on. Anytime I'm around today, gone tomorrow...

Ok... So that 310,685 miles. I'm about to turn 345k miles which is about 555,223 km... Time to catch up. These engines are good for at least 1,609,344 km (1 million miles). I'm also a towing guy too. I've got a utility trailer I haul firewood with and then my 31 foot Jayco RV. Which now is set up as a second home. I travel about 60k miles per year (96,560 km). The best suggestion I've got since we both work these truck hard. Is to get on a creeper and roll from front to rear with a flashlight or drop light and inspect everything you can. Anything that is out of place or showing damage its time to take the time and repair it.

I would look at having the spring re-arched, just replace the blocks from a wrecking yard. Have a machine shop make a new set of u-bolts for you. That spring in the picture looks deformed and not arched right anymore.

I've had one that continued to roll out of the keyway and stand up. Superglue and no longer an issue. It slid right on in and like its suppose too.

AirDog / Raptor has had a troubled past where the owner of the company sold it and the new owner changed up the design attempting to make more money. What this did was created several issues that reduced lifespan of the pump and motor. Like I've got a Raptor sitting on the shelf with a bad motor shaft because the seal ate groove in the steel shaft. Now if you didn't know FASS and AirDog are a Father and Son thing. Father owns AirDog and the Son owns FASS. Kind of like a family feud of sorts. I can say that I've talked to the Father about AirDog and what was happening during the high failure rate. He assured me that he was going to get the owners to comply with the contract of the company. There is a long legal background with AirDog between the Father and the new owner. Lot of people wanted to go back to the old school mechanical pumps like the 1st Gen and 2nd Gen 12V had. The belt driven pump is the closest thing to getting there with good performance. There is a factor that has not seen the test of time. I know the mechanical pump is the farther mount pump from the fuel tank. No pump is designed to suck fuel a long distance. This why Electric pump are favored in some cases. Even Dodge went to installing the pump in the tank to shorten the distance and get the pump back to pushing fuel not sucking the fuel.

Mean this? https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1206-98-5-02-gdp-dodge-ram-mk-7-big-line-kit-heated.html One filter is nearly half the cost of an AirDog or FASS pump kit.

On a BHAF I've been known to drill a hole large enough to insert the filter minder in the head of the filter. The OEM filter minder was designed in inches of water column not inches of mercury.

Dang only one port. I'm in the process of looking at re-doing my accessories in the cab. Right now I need 3 USB ports 2 Amp minimum. Basically 2 cellphones and I want to change up my Garmin from a cigarette lighter charger to a Mini-B USB cord. I've been looking into 12V USB port and solutions.

Nicely done cable setup you got there.

@KATOOM has the best suggestion. I would set it up in a driveway or quiet parking lots so if for some reason it jumps the jack stands no one will get hurt nor damage occur to the truck or buildings. Have a man running the throttle in the cab and second man safely looking from ground level at everything spinning and see what is shaking.

@trreed Could you do an article listing out all those parts, where you got them and how you installed your setup.