Mopar1973Man

Strange just looking for specs on the PennzOil lube there is little to no information about ratings. Just quotes vehicle specifications. As for oil specifications the two documents I did find are limited as well. http://www.stealth316.com/misc/synchromeshfluid.pdf https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.net/epcblobstorage/GPCDOC_GTDS_Pzl_Synchromesh_Fluid_(en)_TDS.pdf There is something about the fluid that it contains or doesn't contain that doesn't allow it to be rated as a GL-4 lube. So close... because the GL-4 rating is for yellow metals. Again like I said either its missing something or has something added that doesn't allow GL-4 rating. Not enough info. This document sheds some light on the syncromech lube. Basically too thin to make the GL-4 ratng... http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf So like in my case the 50 weight Mobil is equal to 90 weight Gear lube. NV4500 came with 75w-80 Mopar Lube. So the NV5600 is more like 5w-30 diesel oil or ATF. Hmmm... Funny how the 3rd Gens are using ATF in the manual transmissions. Hmmm... Then funny how the old GetRag's of the past ran 5w-30 engine oil as well.

I've got exactly what you posted in the picture for my Dodge Ram and got 2 of them from WalMart years ago.

Technical not designed for the NV4500 either but working great. Ill have get home post up what I know in regards to this.

I wanted to break the bonds of only this or that fluids so I'm stepping out and running 50 weight fluid. Basically it 90 weight gear lube rated GL-4. It a synthetic as well but fraction the price of the factory guild I used to buy for the NV4500 from the dealer.

No harm will happen. Like I wrapped my orifice tube to increase A/C performance since its the source of the cold for the cab. The accumulator is after the evaporator and any heat is sent to the condenser out front like @IBMobile said.

When the fluid color starts to darken. Like I'm at about 80k miles on my Mobil 50 SAE GL-4 fluid and the amber color is still visible and there is just light tint of black starting. By the time I reach 100k it should be a bit darker and pronounced. This interval changes with the amount of heat in the fluid. Like my average transmission oil temp is about 120-140*F so the lifespan of the fluid is much longer. All winter the gauge never rises off of 100*F at all. So the fluid gets little abuse. Even towing I only see 140-160*F like my last load of firewood from the high country.

Still you have to have a condition that is creating massive heat. My average highway EGT is 450 to 600*F tops flat ground depending on road speed. Then with 55 to 65 MPH air blowing through the grill I don't think the heat gets a lot of time to soak into the accumulator can. Creately my A/C is so damn cold you typically can stand the coldest setting the cab temperature can drop well below 70*F and colder while moving at highway speed. Now someone towing day in and out I can see this mod. Now traffic and stop light different story this condition I don't think even heat wrap will do much good being the fan most likely won't lock up enough to move air fast enough to keep the condenser and the under hood temperatures down. It's a battle no matter how you slice it.

Double the mileage. Those are still new. Being you just double the size of the filter I'm betting that you'll go well past 60k miles. Now remember these are the tiny AirDog filter nothing like your huge FASS filter and clearing 60k miles. Double stacked. Here is stock rate... As you can see stock filter change interval a waste. The filter is still white and clean. 60k miles later... Now they look dirty. No pressure loss.

Any coolant related pitting is caused from not flushing the system and renewing the coolant often enough. I'm at 345k miles and still have a spotless radiator and block. You have to remember every time you crank these engines over cold in the morning you sending 500-700 Amp through the block and charging the coolant a little every time. So now the pH balance now starts to drift off on the acidic side which now starts pitting any metal parts. Funny part I've been using cheap SuperTech coolant now for the life of the truck and nothing but creek water or well water. Never had a since issue. I've seen several trucks with factory coolant and they bought into to that lifetime coolant idea or extended life coolant idea and now biting them in the rear end. Coolant typically last about 50k to 75k miles and needs to be changed. You going to most likely say it looks fine. Wait till the last gallon comes out typically it darker and sometimes has sediment (dissolved cast block).

Might ask @Me78569 ... I'm pretty sure he was set up close to you. You'll have to update to V2 tunning to get the most.

Time to grease those brake pads... (You know I'm just joking right?!) Seriously, I've got to ask what type of brake shoes are you using? If you are using too aggressive of a shoe material it might be creating a grabby condition like some of the clutches can. Might consider changing shoes out for some baseline generics if you are using any kind of premium brake shoes.

That's why I went to electric gauges. I've had liquid line failures in the past with cheap nylon tubing. Air Brake Tubing was a good solution but tired of the constant battle of adjusting the needle valve to prevent gauge buzzing (gauge damage from water hammer pulses). Ummm... Idaho has 110-115*F temperatures too. Riggins Idaho sees these kinds of temperatures in the summertime. The way I'm set up with ISSPro EV2 I've got my sensor in a very easy spot for testing. I can stack on a mechanical gauge and test for accuracy and then return to the electric alone. So then if I want to dampen the needle of the gauge and take an average or do I want to see every bit of pressure change? ISSPro EV2 does have a setting in the programming that allows you to set the hysteresis of the needle swing.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PHI1293064 You will need the proper sex and tubing size. I know they have both male and female fittings and both ends at 1/8" NPT and tubing... Need to unhook the tube just push the collar up and release the tubing. Then just push the tube back in the fitting and it self locks.

If you use Push to Connect fittings and 1/8" Air Brake line you won't have any issues. Air Brake line is good for like 600 PSI burst strength rated for both oil and fuel contact. Push to Connect fittings work really well and so far mine have lasted over 4 or 5 years.

Raptor DDRP - No... Raptor Yes... (Frame mount) ISSPro EV2 series matches the stock dash in design. Even USB programable.

Personally, I wouldn't suggest any DDRP pumps. The problem is none of them upgrade the stock plumbing then all them end up hooking directly to ECM and have no protection relay added. As I replied that @IBMobile could talk him through it.

Should be in the article section under 24V fuel.

OMG you guys...

You might want to talk to @Me78569 and @jlbayes between these two I'm sure you can you answers.

Cut them both open! Seriously, you'll learn something if you examine the filter media. Like my water separator I've been rinsing out and re-using. The marking and paint is disappearing. Like my last filter, I cut open at 60k miles for the year and it was still "OK" the media color was still visible but darken heading towards black.

Exactly. This is a summation of all blowby in the engine. Like @jlwelding learned years ago you can have a cracked piston creating a misfire problem but still pass the blowby test even though the cylinder was dumping its compression in the crankcase. This is not a good way of measuring cylinder health. If you want to know the cylinder health you can do a compression test or leak down test. Most opt for the compression test being its easy to do. A typical engine should be 400-425 PSI in good shape.

You might want to get ahold of @IBMobile I'm sure he'd be willing to talk you through it.

If you going to be oversizing the filters I highly suggest you cut them open and see the condition of the media after your normal run time. Like I'm still running the small (or tiny) AirDog filter but Donaldson like @AH64ID suggest but I'm finding that about 50k to 60k miles before the media is truly discolored. The stock filter pickup some debris but it takes a bit to get it dirty too. I was finding that at 15k miles like manufacture suggest my filters look like they were new out of the box yet. I kept doubling the mileage and cutting the filters open. So my change interval is 50k to 60k range. So far all them at that point are just discolored not BLACK. You can still see the color of the media yet. (Either white or yellow). For something that big (physically) you might go well past 100k miles on filter changes. This is also based on if you getting clean fuel in the first place. If your getting cheap fuel or raiding farm fuel tank you might be in a different ball park.

Also a AirDog owner. I just got a replacement pump head for the first time after 250k miles. No need for relay mod with a proper lift pump. Those from RockAuto have to use excessive pressure at the start to keep the volume up under load because of the small fuel lines and banjo's you've got stock. Me first before @dripley ... I can always use another 2nd Gen...

I'm going to bet you are right... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 Need to look at the AirDog or FASS fuel systems. Those on RockAuto don't resolve several problems. No protection relay to keep the lift pump load off the ECM. Stock fuel system plumbing is way too restrictive. Those lift pumps don't have enough volume to keep the VP44 lubed and cooled under heavy throttle.