Mopar1973Man

More timing lowers the EGT's. Less timing builds more boost.

That was my problem I had a nice under hood mat on the 1996 and it was destroyed by mice. Then the 2002 the pack rat tore up all the firewall matting. In-cab sound deading is fine but some of us have to leave it out because wildlife making homes in it.

You think the VP44 is expensive what till you changing injectors on a 4th gen and the nearly $4,000 price tag.

ABS computer has two adjustments for gear ratio and for tire rev per miles.

I'm waiting to see how long till the mice tear it all up.

190*F thermostat. 3 bolts at the upper hose fitting on the head. Is the thermostat cover.

Try cruising at 2-3 PSI of boost.

Funny NV4500 only needs 4 quarts and the main shaft is swimming in gear oil.

Explains why the 6 speed needs to be overfilled and the 5 speed doesn't have that issue with bearing lubrication. Putting the pieces together.

I was referring to the goofy level of oil they hold. Seems like it so low on the case. Where the 5 speed seems to have oil all the way up to the top on a normal fill.

Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance he sells that stuff for fuel lines and connectors.

That's right darn 6 speed...

Not sure yet. The video above is how to test for it. Basically, pull the Fuel Pump Relay in the PDC this shuts down power to the VP44 so it never starts. Now you can crank on it and watch the fuel pressure gauge and see what is going on. But... Sadly you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to verify with.

I should get you two @trreed and @Scottfunk build a differential article showing how to do this. (Hint!)

Not good. I would leave the power wires hooked to +12V and ground not switching. You most likely dropping all fuel pressure while running. I would get a fuel pressure gauge first thing and then once you know fuel pressure you might find out it just too high and no wiring mods will be needed.

I know from measuring from the fill hole at the very edge to the gear teeth could rise almost another 20-30 degrees. Much hotter near the gears than at the case edge. Now with a fast cooler on the side and farther away will make it inherently cooler temperature.

Just done the flush just last week. 350k miles... Still rolling with the OEM water pump and radiator. Heat core replaced once not from scale failure but I found a crack in the water neck that was weeping coolant. As I've documented my radiator and block condition now since new. Still to this day using only well water or creek water never used distilled water.

That is my question too! Something doesn't seem right. The ECM should be pulsing that fuel pump when it cranking.

Why I don't like the fast coolers. If you look the probe is at the bottom of the case and farthest possible distance away from the gears where the heat is. The probe needs to be at the top of the oil where heat rises too and close as possible to the gears for accuracy.

How are you mathing the odometer? If you are using a percentage offset it will be errored. You have to use a GPS to get you odometer unless you have the revs/mile flashed to the ABS computer.

Kept the stock filter can you'll find that there is still quite a bit of debris that gets pas a Donaldson filter 3um. So you need to order a Big Line Kit from Vulcan performance to re-instate the stock filter can. 60k filter change. Stock on the left and Airdog on the right. 15k mile filter change is a waste... Be aware that are the "Dollar Store" of gauges... Accuracy is low and failures are high.

Now on my last pull towing the RV home using 245's tires I kept my transmission temperature down to the 160-170*F realm. No fast coolers and only using 50 SAE gear lube. My typical high is about 190*F towing trailers and running highway speeds trailers can range from a 7x12 filled with heavy firewood to 31 foot Jayco RV but pulling on mountain roads with grades up to 7% typically. Normal average is 140-160*F empty run on a 100-110*F outside temperature. Another thing I've learned is the fluid is hotter on top (where the heat rises to) than at the bottom. So don't use the probe hole of the fast coolers. This gives a false cooler reading because it's so far from the gear teeth which is where the heat is generated in the gearbox. Like I've got mine on the passenger side fill hole with about a pint extra fluid in to keep the sensor submerged. Being the exhaust side of the case is the hottest and the top is where the heat rises too.

Actually, this is stacked in with the Airdog relay to cut the power to the fuel pump during cranking. So basically when the starter is running the relay opens the power wire to the lift pump. Typically the ECM does this for you by pulsing the power wire 50/50 and this causes the fuel pressure to fall during cranking.

Easy. Cut it so its flat to the bottom like you see mine with a thickness of one quarter (coin). No quarter tank issues. The fact is you need to the measurement with an empty tank because as the tank empties the bottom rises up to the straw closing the gap. So keeping better than a half tank of fuel open the gap between the tip of the straw. This allows the straw to pick up every drop of fuel. Being that diesel is typically 6.1 pounds per gallon this places 106.75 pounds on the tank bottom at half tank, and only 53.37 pounds at a quarter tank, then 26.68 pounds at a 1/8 of a tank as you can see the plastic would deflect upwards to the straw again. As for the sump be careful offroad you can swipe that sump off the bottom of the tank ruining both the tank and the sump both. Leaving the truck stranded until you find a new fuel tank. Let say some local boys here learned the lesson for us.

Simple solution. Test the alternator for excessive AC noise measure the AC voltage at the BATT post of the alternator and ground. You might end up replacing the alternator diodes or alternator completely. Now do the W-T ground mod. Or the simple version...