Mopar1973Man

All I can do is try...

Not really. I realize the limitations. You would have to EXACTLY perfect conditions to hit that high mark. Yes you won't be able to hit that every single day. Like my old data logs I could hit high number as long as I stay focused and never towed trailers or hauled heavy cargo. But I've done it in the past and I want to do it again with the Quadzilla and the new knowledge we have now.

Ummm... No wonder your MPG suck if you are putting GAS in your fuel tank no wonder it runs like crap. Seriously. My old logs from back in the day with my +50HP injectors and Edge Comp with cruise set at 55 MPH I use to get 22-24 MPG pretty constantly. I gave up my Edge Comp moved forward with the Quadzilla and never reach those numbers again. There is other factors like my original +50HP injectors from Vulcan died at 75k miles with misfire issues (pop pressure fell), then I lost the awesome VP44 pump that nearly made 250k miles. So now I'm rebuilding and attempting to reach my old averages of 22-24 MPG like the past. I want to beat my old high mark even by +0.1 MPG which is 27.2 MPG (hand Math).

Sure wouldn't do much for making compression or boost. Somehow diesel doesn't burn very good without air.

Duh... That's right you only pressing the springs down enough to get the valve collects out. I don't know why I thought the valve would be capable of pressing on the piston and move the piston down.

Did you have to bar the crank to keep it from turning while compressing the springs?

Personally, I don't think it will make that much difference. The block, and all the oil in that area will all be the same temperature as long as the engine is running.

So Imagine you did the TDC #1 and then insert the rod measured for total length marked the dowel so as you rolling up the next set you drop in and measure to see if you got TDC. No, I've never done this yet but I know I've got to jump in soon and do valve seals the oil smoke at startup is rather annoying. Just like an old broken Ford 6.0. Ughh! Not very impressive. I've already got the valve tool I just need to order the valve seals and have some time where I can down the truck and get work done. One of those time I wish some you guys lived closer to me and help get through this stuff rapidly.

From seeing @IBMobile truck most of it is small hardware like ring terminals and a bolt. Now IBMobile did buy fresh cable for the alternator and the ground strap. You can recycle the old ground cable and the old charge lead just as well. So basically the section of cable you chop off at the splice you can reuse for the ground strap from the bolt under the VP44 to the Driver side battery. The old charge lead can be shortened up and reused from the alternator to the passenger side battery to the positive terminal. Again this comes down to the bolt for the ground terminal under the VP44, ring terminals, at the most if you opt for larger cable then length of cable.

You mean to say the engine is manufactured this way from Cummins? Wow! What happened to the QA of Cummins for the 3rd Gens? Also added this to the 3rd Gen Article database so it not lost! Thank you for the information!

@Jonny I would like to know more about that valve compression tool. One of these days I need to do valve seals to keep the oil in the crankcase not dripping in the cylinder. I'm going to assume... 1 & 6, 2 & 5, and 3 & 4 as ganged pairs. So basically find TDC of 1,2 or 3 and the running mate should also be up at the same time. Or am I totally off my rocker?

I love going a step farther. My old favorite... Still own it but no longer running at the moment.

I remember those days quite well... The little 51 Willys Jeep I had...

Now if my weather would settle down and just be calm (winds) and stable temperatures I bet I can start reaching back up in the mid 20's. Seems like every time I come home from Ontario, OR the thunderheads start building, winds start up and the whole MPG number game goes out the window. Engine load rises above my break point and I lose the cruise timing for way more time than I wanted.

BETA TESTING... CRAZY HIGH CRUISE TIMING. DISCLAIMER - DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE DOING! I've learned something new I'll share with everyone. Timing. I'm finding that some of the limits people been tossing out as protection but I'm finding that there is a way to crank these truck up pretty darn high in timing. At 55 MPH I'm running 1,600 RPM with 23 degrees of cruise timing. This has brought my engine load down to 20% on a 1% grade uphill from Riggins to Home. Put this all together now. Current Timing - 15, 18, 22, 25, 28 Max Load Timing Offset 2* Low PSI Timing reduct 5* Timing Reduct Scaling 50% Light Throttle Timing Adv 7* Light Throttle Load Limit 25% Yeap you are seeing that right. It's not a typo. 7* of Cruise Timing stacked on 15* of 1500 RPM band for 22* cruise timing. Now the reason for the 15* of timing in the 1500 band is because of the Max load offset it a -2* of timing. So as load goes down the amount of retard is increased. So just breaking over the 25% limit I see roughly 13.5* to 14.0* of performance timing based on load. Now as you continue to add cruise timing you MUST pull Light Throttle Load Limit down lower. Don't leave it higher than needed to hold cruise state on flat ground. You will find that there is a very narrow band of load that engine runs smoothly without excessive knock exceed the load too far the knock get very pronounced. So when I started with about 4* fo cruise timing you can safely hold it for 30% of engine load. As I continued to raise the cruise timing I keep find that knock coming so as I kept heading up the engine load kept falling. Now my flat cruise engine load is just above an idle floating 12-17% engine load at 55 MPH. What I've got is a tune at 55 MPH climbing a 1% grade can hold nearly ZERO boost and EGT's floating 575-625*F and engine load stay below 25% most of the way no problem. The neat part is as the engine load crosses the 25% limit the timing drops instantly and turbo comes to life building boost to about 2-4 PSI to over come the increase of grade then as load falls the timing jumps back up and boost falls to near ZERO. INFO: +75HP VCO Injectors (7 x 0.0085) and Hybrid 35/40 (60/60/12)

I would start looking here. MAP sensor is in direct control for fuel. If the MAP sensor is malfunctioning then the VP44 is derated fuel to what boost pressure is reported. If the Quadzilla Adrenaline having a boost fooler issue it could create the same problem. As for the VP44 death code, I'm going to assume you've got the P0216 code. Basically, the VP44 can't set the timing correctly. Typically most pumps fall into full retard should still build boost but the power will be weak.

Still don't sound very safe that high of a temperature.

I would do a towing trip and go about 5 to 10 degrees warmer than your normal temperature. 250*F I think is going to be too hot. What I've heard most say the oil typically is about 10+ over the engine temp usually... I guess we'll find out.

Oops! I guess I made a typo... 461 and a 046 Stihl's

4 years ago. From that shop. I've also bought a Stihl Weed wacker and my Raptor Zero Turn lawn mower from them as well.

Ash. Metal in oils. Typically this is caused by ATF, Waste Engine Oil, etc. ATF contains things like anti-scorching compounds, friction modifiers and other soft metals like zinc added. Waste engine oil is the same way with zinc and other soft metals added and compounds to extend the life of engine oil. Now when you burn this the metals come out as ah as seem above. This why the 2 cycle oil theory was created to resolve these issues of ash. Now back in the 1970 ATF didn't have all these compounds and same with engine oil.

Timbo's APPS... All mechanical no electronics. Stock APPS... (IVS is all electronic) Wells APPS (magnetic but still electronic for both TPS and IVS signals)

Where I bought my saw at Ontario, OR... http://wilkinspowersports.com/

So you are going to park your truck? Detail my truck would be a huge waste of money. It takes me less than 13 hours to look like a work truck all over again. I go through and clean my truck up... Vacuum, wash, wax and clean all the glass... One trip down to Ontario, OR and back it looks like I've never done a darn thing. Carpet wise I'll give you a secret. I've done this on the 1996 Dodge. I pull the seats out and some of the trim up. Then removed the carpet and hung it over the railing. Now take a 30* or 40* power wash nozzle and crank up the power washer. All the crude washes out of the carpet and being the carpet is rubber back you can inspect the floor under the carpet. Now the carpet will dry in a few hours and look factory new all over again. Just install. As for dash the easiest way is to pull the dash bezel on the driver side and wash the plastic with a garden hose and soap. Now the passenger side if you are careful you can pry the vents from the dash and wash those and clean the vent holes good. Before installing again you might lube the plastics louvers. Headliner I've found a way with simple green, shop vacuum, and a silicone dog hair brush. Basically shot any spots with a spray mixture of simple green and water. now using the shop vacuum to draw the water back out. DO NOT rub the vacuum on the headliner. Just place and draw the cleaner and dirt back out. DO NOT leave simple green mixture too long the headliner is like a cardboard behind it. When done and your spots are dry now using the silicone brush and lightly comb the nap on the headliner to make it look nice again. So the rest you just wash down with soap, water, and a rag. Not hard...

Remember turbos are dependent on fuel. If there is no fuel burning there is no boost building. As long as the turbo has no play in the shaft bearings (in and out like old school headlight switch) and not making contact with the housing there is nothing wrong with the turbo. Boost or drive pressure leaks are possible. So now back to fuel. If the timing is overly advanced it can reduce boost pressure. The funny part is my last VP44 last 243k miles and failed this way. The timing piston was stuck FULL ADVANCEMENT and would build any boost and power was very low with the nasty sound knock. To spool a turbo you need fuel to be burned and the expanding exhaust gases push past the turbine to spin the turbo to make boost. Like I'm learning with the Quadzilla certain amount of retarding timing is needed to get the turbo spooled up then advance the timing to keep the fuel burning in the cylinder making more power.