Mopar1973Man

Holy crap dude that is just insanely hot. Yeah, and there isn't enough water, ice is unheard of, and A/C is just a dream... Another one... Just think its 140-150*F outside the windows are rolled up on your vehicle and you got vinyl seats. Yeah, I'd be pissed off big time with 2nd-degree burns on my back and . Steering wheel hotter than frying pan.

I know that feeling. My first summer of driving MoparMom back and forth to Ontario, OR for dialysis and trying to find a shady place to park the truck so I didn't fry waiting 4 hours. That was a tough deal to fill some days you fight to find the spot early in the day and keep it. Really hated those days when I had to leave the truck running with the A/C on to keep from cooking to death in the truck. Several of my past fire seasons in the past I remember reports going over the radio of 110 to 115*F temps with humidity as low as 5 to 8%. Ugh. Then being stuck in the water tender and waiting for orders from USFS. You'd take your turnout coat and lay it over the windshield to shade the cab.

Does someone want to unload this heavy trailer? All nothing but Ponderosa Pine rounds. Remember my trailer is 7 foot wide and 12 foot long. Top of the rail is 33 inches. Sad part is these are wet. That was only 1/3 of the tree the other 2/3 is still on the mountain.

Not really. That what wears out the clutch. Also if it does cycle out then the time the freon reverse direction pushing hot freon back into the evaporator making performance poor and warm.

I know the feeling. That why in the past I did the sport headlight upgrade. Then found out being cheap cost me more in the long run. My sport headlight where only used for one year and pulled because the light quality was really poor. Even with 4 bulbs burning. Then hunting around for HID upgrades. My problem was I didn't want to do this all over again so I went the full meal deal. Yeah, I was rubbing my tail and my wallet as the $700 flew out of my wallet. I'm not sorry I ordered the set I did. I got the Morimoto D2S lens which is bigger than the H1 mini's which most of the members here used. Did the same thing on the driving light I did the cheap method of using 100w aircraft landing light for years. This ended up costing me more, in the long run, being the bulbs are $22 a piece now and only last about 9 months. So I jumped for the quality light and did the PIAA LED driving lights. These lights for only 18w are so bright that in the snow you have to shut them off your eyes get tired of the light reflection. Between the two light sets, I've spent $1,000 on lighting. Sounds like a lot but its worth every penny.

Well in both cases we both should check the freon pressures I'm betting I'm a bit low and it creating more frost than sweat. It suppose to create cold air but not create a large amount of frost. If the compressor is cycling then your too low on freon as well. The compressor should stay locked all the time and create a sweaty cold but not a frosty cold. If it starts building frost then you could plug up the evaporator and performance of air flow will be reduced.

Yeah, there is a few different examples like some member here are looking for ball joints and willing to $739 for a set of ball joint for 3rd gen. Like on my 2nd gen I bought AC Delco ball joints for $30 a piece still going nearly 200k miles later. Some other member believes in Cummins thermostats and pay the $100 price tag. I would just buy a NAPA thermostat and save a bunch of money at $29. Yeah just started I'm a rather Noob yet. Denso is at least a pretty big company covering a wide range of parts.

So using that though I should give up buying injection pumps from DAP because their cheap and buy from NAPA (Quality in the price). Make you think. For that much I can buy a Dragon Fire from DAP.

Not even heard of Murry...

Not really. 4 Seasons, Sanden, or Denso. There is a 4th one but I can't find it now.

Headlights and all dash functions.

Something I caught him on was the used compressor he bought had spilled out all it oil. So I'm glad it didn't fire up because it would of been a for sure black death. Then I was working at the clutch power supply check the fuse and it was blown (cracked). Then attempt to bridge 30 and 87 in the PDC and get the clutch to snap shut and no dice, just arcing. That told me the clutch was junk. Rarely have I've seen any PCM sided issues maybe low-pressure switch.

Funny... When I bring my truck into the shop and shutdown after my Ontario, OR trips the condensation/frost drips off so much water that it makes it way out the garage door. Quite a bit of water.

Let's start with the A/C relay. Pull it out and jump across the 87 and 30 pins. Double check the Fuse J (10 Amp fuse) in the PDC. If it starts we know that circuit is working.

Short? As far as I know that circuit should be all 5 volt sensors. I've got to ask is there any error codes present? I'm not sure if the PCM records any A/C system errors.

Another test is to unplug the low-pressure sensor on the accumulator and use a paper clip and bridge the contacts. Typically that starts the compressor. It could be a bad high-pressure switch by the compressor and its open. Both of the pressure switches must be a closed switch for the compressor to start. The PCM controls the ground side of the power relay to the compressor. You can bridge 87 and 30 contacts in the PDC to see if the compressor engages.

Double check the ground at the driver side headlight there is a ground.

I chose my words carefully. I said GL-4 class I did not say SPEC. GL-4 class basically is to deal with yellow metals in syncros and carbon fiber syncro. Even Pennzoil syncromesh is stating that it protects for yellow metals. If again close to the GL-4 but the fluid is too THIN to meet the rating. Also pointing out that no we cannot use GL-5 in any transmission being it will attack the yellow metals and syncros.

4600??? I'm glad Ive got an NV4500 was only 1800 to rebuild. About 4 days to be rebuilt.

All our transmission should be in the GL-4 class. GL-5 will eat yellow metals and carbon fiber. Do look up for GL ratings lot of good reading. Again unknown past history then trying different fluids typically results with this.

He said yes you can use the 50 weight in the NV5600 with no issues. Yes, I called my rebuilder Abe at Weller Truck.

Still thicker fluid is being used. Still heading back towards GL-4 fluid. Just pointing out that you can experiment some with lubricant and specs are not written in stone. Proved two different cases here where people change lubricant away from factory to improve the characteristics of the transmission. (Chose my words a bit better this time) I just thought about that... My Mobil 50 SAE fluid does not have the gear rollover noise like the old 75w-80 that factory provided. Again thicker fluid...

This is my point. There is room to play with fluids. Dodge/Chrysler using one thing and Mercedes stating another. Basically comes down to viscosity and the rating of the lube. Now look back at the Getrag's G360 transmissions again produced by Mercedes. You'll see people didn't hold to the spec set by Dodge they experimented a bit and switch from 5w-30 engine oil to some using GL-4 fluids and some using synthetic 15w-40 engine oil. Notice some people when up in viscosity to keep the oil in contact with the bearings and gear teeth longer when the oil is hotter like during towing? This story continues today like @trreed points out where people are changing lubricants to solve spec problems. In the case of what he points out that Dodge went with ATF+4 because they already use it for the automatics and thin enough to make for smoother shift quality. As trreed points out most are going up in viscosity for better protection. Kind of like myself... After the study work and finding the 50 weight (90 weight gear lube) is actually thicker than the 75w-80. Or in trreed case ATF+4 to syncromech which is thicker. Hmmm... See a trend here?

Lot of guys even on the 12V's gave up on the factory lift pump and switch to electric pumps like AirDog / FASS because of the limitations of the mechanical lift pump. The Factory lift pump doesn't pump when the cam pushes the rod. It pumps when the cam lobe rolls away and when the rod is returning under spring tension. So this makes the lift pump volume lower at high RPM's. There is a article on Tork Teknologies site about the flow limitations. For daily driving, the factory lift pump will work...

No. My transmission rebuild told me he would allow me to use this fluid and warranty my transmission against failures if I did use the fluid. Being I was on the hunt for either 75w-90 synthetic GL-4 (must not be GL-5) this was way too hard to find. Where 50 weight synthetic GL-4 is very common and used in all the bigger Eaton Fuller Transmission on larger over the road trucks. Since my rebuilder had the 50 Weight on hand in Mobil that where I started at. I paid a premium price for that one bucket but still half the price for Mopar Fluid from the dealer. Next will be even cheaper... (12 dollars a quart) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAN706035M Basically what I was buying from the dealer was in the range of 25 to 29 dollars a quart. Typically cost me 120 dollars for 1 gallon of Mopar fluid. This was one factor that got me out of the dealer only fluids. The second factor was Castrol quit production of the factory transmission fluid. So this meant that what was left was going up in price as well. But what I'm learning from all this when you strip it all down the NV4500 and NV5600 are both transmissions with steel gears and bearings. We both have carbon fiber syncros. That was the huge scare at first was all the talk about the wrong fluid could wipe out the syncros. (Myth) This isn't true. Actually the problem that I found was the Cummins engine laid out so much torque the gear teeth where popping. So the fluid was designed around thermal protection of the gear teeth. The only thing the syncros require is GL-4 fluids (Protection from yellow metal to prevent syncro damage). The only thing the gear teeth require is a GL-4 Synthetic. This is another reason I'm not sold on the transmission coolers. Because in my study of probe placement you need it as close to the gears as possible and at the top of the fluid where heat rises. Not at the bottom and the farther from the transmission gears like the Fast coolers. I've used a few different probes and IR guns and measured the fluid in different places. The hottest is the passenger side top. Still, to this day the only time I've every broke over 220*F trans temp was doing a study of gear and grade climb on 110*F day on 7% grade. 4th gear (1:1 direct) is the COOLEST gear to climb grades with I climbed a 7% grade with my 31 foot RV and used 3rd instead of 4th. The just prolonged the heating the fluid which drove it up in temp. Next trip I climbed the very same grade in 4th and barely broke 180-190*F. No coolers. Like my last trip home from Ontario, OR ranging from 120 to 140*F in 85*F degree weather no issue with temps at all. No fancy coolers, no heater shields, no exhaust wrap. Now since I'm mastering the Quadzilla and getting the EGT's reduced the amount of heat coming down the exhaust pipe in greatly reduced. I struggle to even get 1,000-1,100*F in level 3 climbing a grade with the RV now. On a flip side now going to ther freezer the coldest temp I remember seeing on my outside temp gauge was -35*F going across New Meadows and heading toward Council. Shift quality was still excellent even in the bitter cold even though the fluid is much thicker than factory 75w-80 which 50 weight is actually 90 weight gear lube. No problems with shift quality. I'll bring up something there is a lot of people that complain about using the wrong fluid typically because they have shift problem already or clutch problems and the fluid aggravates the shifting issue. I've started out with fresh rebuild so I can say without a doubt 50 weight fluid are OK to use for NV4500 so far. Almost to 100k miles and still handshaking. Ramblings of a Mopar Nut...