Mopar1973Man

Man, that is a long wait to get a truck built. With a box of tools we could all built it by now.

This is one of the few reason I'm not a fan of Smarty S03. The Smarty was designed around stock injectors and not stacking. Now with the extra fuel you'll need more timing. As @Me78569 documented in the logs you really can adjust the timing very much. Here is where the Smarty Touch would fill the void but for the price for just a 60 HP tuner it way better to look towards a Quadzilla.

Just ohm test from the ECM to the MAP and check for 0 ohms. If so the wiring is fine. One wire is ground, one wire is signal and the last one is +5V. So you can test for good 5V and ground at the plug. Beyond that, it means either the Quadzilla is to blame or the MAP sensor. Anywhere you want. I kind of build upside down looking at my cruise timing I want first. The built the performance curve from that offset. Then deepen the performance side by using the load timing offset. So this allows for fairly high-performance timing but allows you to cruise under light performance loads and get enough retarding to build boost. Rather hard to explain... If you want you can call me some time I can explain how this is done.

Typically used super unleaded from the local Chevron. Then usually broke out the 2 cycle oil in the back of my truck and mixed some SuperTech at 40 to 50:1 ratio. Rather be slightly oil rich than too lean. That how I killed my very first saw ran too lean in oil and seized the conrod on the crank.

Something like that. 2 to 3 minutes roughly what I remember. Instant cancel if you reach above 20 MPH. But just firing up in a parking lot and idling to stay warm, yeah you taking the full time of the grid heaters.

If I remember right what @Me78569 said was 19 degrees.

If I remember right during a cruise state below 20% engine load it would top out at about 21 to 22 degrees. As for WOT runs I didn't log any of that.

Well, then I've had several. All the years of backing trailers on the woods getting firewood. All the time idling setting up to drag logs. Like yesterday if my truck was running again driving very slow up forestry roads looking for firewood. Below 20 MPH. True its not a life average either. Still I'm sitting here thinking al the times I've fired it up and left it idling is quite a bit. That what caused my last alternator to fail was the excessive amount of idling last winter with grid heaters banging away at the alternator burned the diodes out. I can think of lots of times it was started and left to idle.

More advanced timing, lower boost. More retarded timing high boost. Not the fuel in this cases. Stock ECM tune is heavily retarded hence the high boost pressure.

About like myself my Hybrid 35/40 turbo spikes out at 45 PSI tops and then settles at about 40-42 PSI at WOT throttle wire tapped. Now CANBus only its only about 32 PSI tops. In any case the cruise pressure is really low like I said about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. A couple of screen shots. No I don't display boost being 2002 for some reason are off. I use my ISSPro gauges more.

Just about right. At 65 MPH I'm typically about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. While your building your tune you want to keep an eye on the engine load. The more you can drop engine load the less fuel your burning. When you find a good timing you notice EGT's are lower and so is the engine load. Now the trick is when you drop cruise timing you want just enough retard timing to kick the boost back up to build and pull up the power and then get you back to the cruise timing quickly.

I agree the ground cable sound to be rotten and should be replaced most likely. I've seen cases where the cable broke in the middle and the vehicle would randomly start. Away to check this is to take a set of jumper cables and go from the negative post of the battery to the block if it starts better then the cables are damaged or shot.

Quadzilla is a clean tuner. We are consuming all the fuel and turning into power. Old canned tunes like Edge Comp or Edge Juice worked good with stock injectors but couldn't be cleaned up because of lack of timing control and fuel control. Quadzilla you can clean up 90% of the smoke with a good tune consuming all the fuel. Towing reasons. So I'm running tapped as a daily driver (level 4-7) but when I hitch up a trailer I turn down to level 3 which is strictly CANBus and then the EGT's are totally under control. Another reason is when road surface is slick be it ice or mud you can cut your power to prevent shocking the tires which might spin. So I would still tap the wire but use the iQuad app to control when you use the wiretap. It gets deeper. You can set how much TPS signal it takes to trigger wiretap. Then you can set how much boost is required to trip the wiretap. You can set how much wiretap to start with percentage number. Then how far up the boost scale to reach 100%. So you have full control over the wiretap and even my tune I can tune out the majority of the smoke.

Like I'm running a +75HP (7 x 0.0085) VCO injectors, HX35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12), with the Quadzilla Adrenaline. In level 3 (CANBus Only) I can hold the throttle to the floor and never reach 1,200*F EGT's. Towing I can reach it but takes a while to get hot. Now wiretap level 4th gear gets stupid it's possible to break the rear tires loose.

No way to bring it home since the road is a mess. No to mention its already been logged out. In the past I've done that quite a bit I use to take Mom's Chevy S-10 and a little Pullan saw and get anything I could from up there. Now the road is in horrid shape the land owner behind me won't maintain the road. It fairly dangerous now with a ATV.

In the beginning was 360 to 400 miles. Currently its 250 to 300 miles.

Wait to start light coming on? If not the ECM is not booting up and will not turn on either the lift pump or the VP44. Lift pump should be directly controlled by the ECM. The VP44 is turn on by the fuel pump relay in the PDC.

Just the cost of the Smarty and the recovery file which will most likely be more than entire rebuilt ECM. Again 1 shop hour at the dealer is about $120 I seriously doubt you'll be able to buy a Smarty S-03 and the recovery file for under $120. All you need to do is tow the truck to the dealer.

ECM has to be on the truck. Dealer can only flash what the VIN states. Typically a dealer charges one shop hour. All flash work is done through the OBDII port.

Just in fuzzy math assuming I kept the engine running for the last year every time I went down to Ontario for dialysis treatments for MoparMom. 13 hours per trip x 3 day a week = 39 hours a week x 52 week in a year = 2,028 hours running. Just in One Year. I've almost got 2 years counting of running back and forth. Excessive maybe... But fuzzy math and not accounting for the actual stop time. So now spread that over 12 years and this number might be a bit more or less. Just looking from another angle and the amount of running time in resent times. Then there might be years where its was much less. I remember more than once where the engine was started and never really got shut down all day. Truthfully, I really not going to complain about the pump motor failing. I think I've got my $520 dollars worth from a 12-year-old pump traveling 250k miles.

Strange but true. My old Stihl Chainsaw never got any real maintenance to it other than blowing out the air filter and fresh chains. When I bought my new saw I sent my old saw in to be looked at and taken care of. They changed the spark plug but the electrodes were still good. Good burn color and in good condition. Change the air filter. Then rebuilt the carburetor. The only repair I did to that saw was the throttle handle got damage when it got crushed by a log that rolled. Now I'm getting set up for wood season. I've already hunted down my firewood and found plenty of Pine. Even found some nice dry Red Fir but I got to hurry to get that. Wood spot is found. Now it time to get firewood permit, fresh saw fuel mixed 50:1 ratio, fresh chains on both saws. Trailer is already empty. Friend is going to do the towing work for me for now till my truck gets repaired.

Kind of hard to judge on mileage alone. I can tell of many times sitting in parking lots idling away to keep warm with 0*F weather. Then like last summer many days of idling in parking lots to keep from frying to death. All the times I kicked 3 cylinder warm up or 6 cylinder warm up. Jump-starting other vehicles. I'm sure there is a few thousand hours more on the pump motor in idle time.

Neither... It's in the ABS module. Smarty only programs the ECM. The only other thing it can program is the ABS for Speedometer. Personally, I would skip the Smarty and just have a dealer flash the tires size for you. Smarty S-03 just for tire size change is rather expensive. You can get a dealer to flash it for much less.

Do you see it? Here it is... I was out with a friend today scouting for firewood. Just below our first spot on the way back we spotted this little fawn pop up of the edge of the road it spotted us and laid down instantly. Not knowing where Momma was we were not going to get out of the truck. So we quickly snapped photos of this little fawn and moved on down the road.

Might look into the ground wire mod by @W-T .