Mopar1973Man

Basically the computer in the cab that handles the steering wheel control. The stereo controls sent back different voltages that the central timer converts into digital signals on the CCD network then the factory stereo is hooked to the CCD network and receives the data for volume and tuner controls. Won't work... Has to be a factor stereo to work. Again it got be able to communicate with the central timer on the CCD network.

Geez where are you getting your rebuilt at? When I broke the mainshaft it was 1800 for all new bearings, syncros, and replaced 5th gear because the inter hub lost its hard facing. I could of had it for 1400 if I didn't break the mainshaft and wore out 5th gear.

I've got to apologize for not posting MPG logs... 340951 - 340666 = 285 ÷ 12.935 = 22.03 MPG (5/1/18) 341245 - 340955 = 290 ÷ 13.726 = 21.12 MPG (5/3/18) 341541 - 341245 = 296 ÷ 14.563 = 20.32 MPG (5/5/18) Trailer towing (~30 miles) 341787 - 341541 = 246 ÷ 11.286 = 21.79 MPG (5/8/18) Here we are up to date... 21.49 Avg MPG.

14 / 17 / 21 / 24 / 27 That is what I'm running.

Contact Peter directly at South Bend Clutch ask him. I would avoid ceramic clutches it will eat the pressure plate.

Low fluid... 2nd gear issues, bad gear. Any metal in the oil?

I'm not paranoid like some people that are afraid to post there real name, phone number, etc. I don't care if the Gov't is tracking me. I'm not doing anything illegal. If people are so good at tracking people why is it so hard for law enforcement to trackdown criminals and put them away? Makes you think about the whole tracking thing...

Yeah LG G3 phone. Now my LG G5 gets warm but never shutdown yet.

In not about RPM matching and about the feel. Once you have done it enough you get the picture. It's about gaining the slack on the gear to slip out and letting it fall and slip back in. You'll find driving this way you shift gears early. Too high in the RPM will trap the gear and make it hard to get out and back in. Too low can be just as bad too. There is no magic match RPM either each truck and transmission is a bit different and behaves differently. I've driven Eaton fuller 8 speeds (Freight shaker) and Eaton Fuller 10 speeds (KW) One of my favorite fire trucks... Cummins Big Cam 400 with Eaton Fuller 10 speed. We've converted to a water tender over the years looks way different now.

Turbo wise as the drive pressure rises above your boost pressure that's when EGT's jump. Knowing this you can exceed it for short spans for like a passing burst to gain the speed but then back out the EGT's fall quick. Again for my purpose, it works well but not optimal.

If you have driven larger truck with Eaton fuller you find out there do not have syncros at all. So it a float shift you do in those trucks. Its a matter of letting the tension off the gear matching RPM for a brief second pull it out then let the RPM's fall and slip it back in as the RPM's fall. This would be an upshift. A downshift is a bit tricky for newbies. You would match the RPM slip it out of the gear your in tap your throttle to gain RPM's to match and slip back in. That all I know of. When your float shifting the very minor amount of RPM offset will pull on the syncros but if your matching really close then I really doubt any harm will happen. Basically using the syncros like a clutch trying to slow the gear to match. Again if your RPMs are right then really there shouldn't be any wear. Yes. That is the key to doing this right. In larger trucks, you can bang out the first 5 gear in less than 100 yards.

I would say more than 350 HP. If you get there you'll understand the power difference is WAY different. In my design of power I've got plenty of power on tap, I would gamble a guess closer to 400 HP being my boost gauge can snap upwards of 42-43 PS then settle just above 40 PSI. The only difference is I'm using that HX35/40 Hybrid. The exhaust side is the same as your HX35W same turbine and housing technically the 35 PSI limit still holds true. The compressor is HX40 which is upgraded from the 54mm wheel to the 60 mm wheel. Flows more air. The only thing I need this power for is passing other vehicles so 2-5 second burst over the turbos limits EGT's rise quickly but it gets the job done. Are there better setups? Yes. Will it cost more money? Yes. Do I have the money? Absolutely Not.

I use an app called Life 360 so I can track where MoparMom is at all times and visa-versa. My GPS is on and on high accuracy. Both my LG G5 and MoparMom's LG G4 last pretty good on battery life.

HX35W will safely do 35 PSI for the life of the truck. Just like you answered yourself... CanBus tuners are just that. Wiretap is a whole different animal. Being I drove a full year without a wiretap on a Quadzilla if feels well like a Edge EZ or Smarty S-03. Which is pretty mild. Now wiretap kicks in the tires start to breaking loose. Now your jumping from 60 HP tuner to 180 HP tuner and pouring the fuel at the engine. It might be short burst but boy the power difference is very different.

There is a lot off different factors that will change this number. Gears, tires, injectors, actual max boost, etc. This why it's at least a good point of reference to figure out how much power you can create.

As long as you can do it without forcing the gear you should be OK. Still not a suggested method but I understand buying time.

No. Total. So if a HX35W makes 35 PSI your going to roughly make 350 HP. Like I said rule of thumb as a guide.

Rule of thumb... 1 PSI of boost is equal to 10 HP.

Ummm... Errr....

Still waiting...

You need a High Line Central Timer. The central timer receives the steering wheel control then pipes the commands out over the CCD network to the factory stereo. If you have an aftermarket radio this will not work. Then typically the high line central timer had the head seats and steering wheel controls then the Infinity Stereo setup too where the front stereo speaker had the amp and there the a-pillar had the tweeter.

Nice to see a few made close to 1/2 million. Like around here most of them seem to be blown up around the 200-300k miles range.

Just like I found out that the Battery Temperature Sensor is used for the grid heater post-heating. Strange but true. Being the speed sensor is stored in the PCM it could be shared by the CCD Network bus. Possibly used... Maybe?

Basically turn all timing settings to 0. Then go to the sliders and the slider are now +value over stock timing from the ECM. This way you can basically do like the older tuners use the ECM timing and +value of each slider on top of stock ECM timing. So if you slide up 1 on the 1500 band then you'll get +1 timing to whatever the ECM is providing in the 1500 realm.

Possibly. Yes. All depends on how the speed signals are read and what 3 values your have from the 2 front and 1 rear sensor and how far off the signals might be plus on the automatics there is the output speed sensor that could be used too. (Not sure but possible.) For me it only 1 rev/mile different for 235 to 265 rev/mile difference. 265 (638) and 285 (615) there is a 23 rev/mile difference.