Mopar1973Man

Need to switch out to 4.10s and all you EGT problems go away.

On Level 3 I can hold the throttle to the floor all the way to the governor and never reach 1,200. What gears do you have in the axles?

At least I don't have to travel to to you all here.

Wow! That's hot for cruising... At 65 MPH 600*F. At 55 MPH I can dip as low as 450*F cruising flat ground. Even the last time I ran on the interstate at 80 MPH I hovered 700*F. I can barely get below 20% engine load for 55 to 65 MPH.

Not completely true. I know who builds the fuel lines for AirDog right here in the US. I'm sure if I dig some more i can tell you where the rest is made.

Even with a new AirDog I would replace all the hose and quick connects.

I'd never use any kind of quick connector or 3/8" lines. I would upgrade to full 1/2" lines from the tank to the VP44 using Parker Push Lock fittings.

Like my AirDog 150 after 12 years of service and still singing away under the truck. Zero down time. Close to 200k miles on that pump. It's so old now the AirDog badge fell off. It would take me about the same amount of time with a 3/8 wrench and four bolts.

To me it looks like a failing ECM. APPS stay up where its suppose to but the engine load is dropping out so that is more ECM problem that APPS problem. Back to AC noise possible cause.

This is why I document all return with photos and serial number off the pump BEFORE sending back. I've been known to mark pumps with my own mark then when it comes time to identify the pump I can pull my secret out too. Too many times I've seen people get robbed by warranty claims that been void because of contaminated fuel claims.

Could be a few things... Failed boost fooler. Bad connection on the MAP sensor. Bad MAP sensor.

First off I'm confused why is the fuel pump wired to the ignition fuse in the cab? It should be hooked up to the ECM and a control relay. The relay should be hooked up to battery power typically I hook it up to the PDC +12V stud. During cranking the ECM will command 50% duty cycle which will pulse the power on and off and get the pump to run about 7-12 PSI during cranking. Typically when you turn the key on the first second it will pulse the pump and usually get a pressure spike before you even hit the key to start. You might want to check with another gauge to verify your gauge is showing correctly. The only reason there would be longer starts and no pressure is a loss of prime. You may be seeing fuel in the filler neck but there could be an air bubble trapped in the rest of the system.

That good news to see you are getting that problem fixed. Sorry, you've had to run into that problem with the ECM.

Still baffled by the lack of boost. Drive pressure leaks (crack manifold or blown exhaust gaskets) Wastegate malfunction (wastegate rusted/stuck open) Boost leaks... Another dumb question? Do you have an exhaust brake? Is it stuck closed? This could produce seriously high EGT's and lack of boost pressure. The fact there is that much EGT's you've got the fuel but are you getting the drive pressure to the turbine to spin the compressor. I've seen several photos floating around the Internet of turbos with broken shafts. Damaged turbine wheel or damaged compressor wheels. Look for wheel damage. Chipped fins, rub marks where it's made contact. Wastegate seen here. It might be worth pulling that turbo to look at both sides. So you can inspect the wastegate and the turbine wheel.

I've got to ask is this a stock turbo?

True. Small boost leaks most likely will not affect the maximum boost. Larger ones like a single manifold bolt missing or a chunk of intake gasket missing will leak pretty good. Another mistake is removing stock filter can and reusing the old bolts which are too long and the manifold will leak.

Still missing my question. If I have my max set for 25* I noticed it will cancel the cruise timing if timing rises above 25*. That's fine. Now if the performance timing rises above 25* will it cap out or will it continue with what is programmed? Again what does the MAX timing slider control? What does it cap out?

This post is focused more so towards @Me78569 ... I need to find an answer to a value here. In the timing EQ sliders the max timing value. I've found out you can limit your reach of the cruise timing with this value. Now does it limit the reach of the performance timing too? I need to know the reach of this value and what it caps out.

I've got the Vulcan Performance Silicone boots and they fit fine.

After watching this part done by @Dynamic it's not to bad doing the valve body. Just time and standard tools.

Might talk to @Dynamic and see what he has to offer as well for a kit.

I'm allowed a break after driving from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR then back over to Parma, ID. Then on top of it I've got 4 hours to wait now so might as well go where there is air conditioning and somewhere comfortable to be for 4 hours. Now if I would of bought my laptop I could have been working on the website more but I didn't. So I got the case of the lazies and took a nap. @MnTom I would have to agree with @JAG1 I think a replacement would be better because of the flooring issues. Like that was one of the thing I was taught during the purchase of my Jayco. Since I'm fairly heavy and big I could walk in an RV and feel if the floor was strong or not. Most of the newer units felt weak in the flooring like it was flexing excessively. Like my Jayco has a double square tube frame and 1/2 plywood floor which does make for a heavier unit but no flooring problems or flex.

Yeah, I know but I've not found what I'm looking for... I find the little round 2 amp USB ports all day long in Amazon.

I bought someone's old camper and love it. Already broke in and no warranty issues to deal with.