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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. 340666 - 340368 = 298 / 13.948 = 21.36 MPG I was hoping for more. I guess ill have to get busy putting effort into this beast. I need to at least be mid 20s which to me is 24 to 26 MPG consistently. I'm at least above average for most here on the website. Just doing some math 300 miles ÷ 12 gallons is 25 MPG. I was at 13.9 gallons at 298 miles. So I've got to shave off 2 gallons of consumption in 300 miles. Ill get there. Back to checking drag items like brakes, parking brakes, etc. Valve lash check again and go tight side again on the 0.008 and 0.018 again. Injectors with higher pop pressure. I'm going to do it.
  2. Might have debris in the hydrobooster that is jamming up something or plugging a port.
  3. Just got to run matching tune to flash version. If you attempt to load a tune that is version 2.5 but your flash is 2.7 it will not load. The tune has be a 2.7 as well.
  4. Contact info at the bottom of the page.
  5. We do have replacement cables in the store.
  6. Like my first vehicle was a 1973 Dodge Charger SE. Yeah, now you know where the "1973" comes from in Mopar1973Man. I held on to that old car till about 3 or 4 years ago. Sold it to local gent. I just didn't have the money to restore that beast. Sat under a tree for way too long and needed a lot of work to make it like it was years ago. It was a hell of a street machine back in my High School days. Street Racing usually gentleman's bets with friends. I'm the same way today I'm going to hang on to this truck till there is just nothing left I can do and I gotta let go. So far this truck I'm actually staying up on all the repairs and the list problems are being kept small.
  7. The only thing I can think of is a sudden timing shift. As timing advances it produces an increase of throttle.
  8. You've got to build a math formula display the right boost pressure. You might ask either @Chris O. or @Me78569 they would both know.
  9. APPS reset on programs the ECM the span of voltage from idle to WOT. The Exhaust brake is typically based off the IVS (Idle Validation Switch). If the switch is triggered for idle then the exhaust brake should be active. Depends on the type of APPS. Timbo APPS is fully mechanical so there is no voltage value to flip-flop the IVS it all based on angle. Now the Stock APPS and Wells APPS both rely on voltage to flip-flop the IVS.
  10. Basically, you need to make sure your getting +12V on the Red lead. Then the Orange/Balck is getting your ground signal. Double check the #1 fuse to see if it cracked. I've seen that too many times. You can look at the fuse and it appears fine but to an ohm meter its cracked. Might swap relays for the transmission to see if it bad relay.
  11. Like myself, I broke out the 3,000 PSI power washer and power washed all those tough spots to make sure all the mud and salt are gone from the truck.
  12. That's the right app. I guess some needs to update the download area. @Me78569 or @Quadzilla Power...
  13. You might talk to @Me78569 and see if the download is up to date.
  14. According to my app the 1.9.41 is the current version.
  15. Plus compound turbos... Way different setup. Also, I'm not driving any roads that allow for 80 MPH anymore.
  16. You might still want to have the Quadzilla because high cetane fuel requires retarding in the winter time to gain MPG's back hence the design around the MPG fooler. Excessive timing with high cetane fuel makes for really low MPG in the dead of winter. I've been able to hit 20 MPG this last winter even with the 7 x 0.0085 injectors. Now I'm gearing up for the fuel price hike and going for the gold on my high mark which is 27.2 MPG hand math. I've already started the tune and will be reporting my MPG as I go.
  17. If I go down to my truck I can pull out my fuel logs I'm sure I've got plenty of 17-19 MPG right now.
  18. I'm fighting to keep the rust at bay. So far I'm holding my own.
  19. Now here is a Dragon fire VP44 injection pump. ($2,474.00) Why even mess with the NAPA pump... https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-5170-industrial-injection-dragon-flow-extreme-vp44-injection-pump-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins.aspx
  20. You would be better off buying another truck.
  21. I don't have a Windows PC either... Strictly Linux and Android. No. Just key on. The Live Data yes needs the vehicle driven or running.
  22. OBDLink LX is the dongle I've got. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ I've used both the OBDLink App and Dash Command (Palmer Performance). I prefer the Palmer Performance being it does auto connect properly where the OBDLink app doesn't you manual have to remember to reconnect each time.
  23. I'm bringing this topic back to the top. I've been warned by a few forum members and local fuel stations that the price of diesel is heading towards $4.00 a gallon for sure. I've changed over to hypermiling again. I'm going to build that Economy Tune from hell. I'm going to reach for that 28 MPG and beat my old 27.2 MPG high mark. I'm going to start reporting my tank to tank hand math as I fill the truck. I'm at 340k miles currently. I'm also going to do some injector building on my old stock injectors. I'm going for a set of 7 x 0.009 injectors increase the pop pressure to 315 bar most likely. Then send my current injectors back and have them re-popped to 315 bar. So my days of hypermiling are going to return again. Since I'm required to continue to make these trip to Ontario, OR for MoparMom's dialysis treatments I've got to make the Cummins efficient as possible to make it pass that surge of fuel prices. I'm starting as of last tank of fuel. Let see what I get for MPG's when I return down to Payette for fuel on Saturday. Another task I need to do is my valve lash since its most likely needing a bit of TLC. If I get lucky I might see if I can find a used set of 245/75 R16 tires and change up the gear ratio to optimize the MPG factor reducing the load on the engine. Currently, on flat ground, at 55 MPH my engine load is about 17-19%.
  24. Yes sir. I ran that way so I wouldn't void the VP44 warranty right off. Just ran level 3 tunes and never bother to configure the wiretap settings of my tunes. Now with the wiretap hooked up I'm only using between 1,200us to 1,400us of wiretap pulse. Beyond that it just becomes excessively smoky.

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