Mopar1973Man

Heat exchanger for the transmission fluid. There is 2 coolant lines and 2 ATF lines.

Some of us are even smarter... Look at the turbo timer EGT setting.

Typically guys without pyrometer gauges end up with cracked manifolds. Here I am with 340k miles and OEM manifold no issues.

I like this idea much better with the amount of road salt used in my area. Wrapped anything will rot much faster.

Still RockAuto at $125 got that beat...

Where are the trailer brakes and trailer brake controller?

Might be the next step for me I'm closing in on 200k miles on these Rancho's.

Sway bar bushings would be a good idea for my truck. I'm interested in what you do here. I've got a mild issue with axle wrap now. Daily driving isn't so bad, but lay the power to the truck and axle hops up and tires spin lose. Little secret I'll share. Take the seats out and then pull the carpet out. Now hang the carpet or lay it over a picnic table. Now using a power washer with a wide angle nozzle you can power clean that carpet fast. It will be like factory fresh when it dries in the sun. I've done this on the 1996 Dodge Ram once and it looked like a new truck on the inside for several years. Now its due for this again. So is the 2002 Dodge it needs to have the carpets washed badly. While the seats are out you can clean them much easier. The rest of the cab is super easy to clean at that point too. Check your floor metal for damage or rust and deal with it while the carpet is out of the truck. Just for fun compare. Being I've got the Quadzilla tuner and not carrying the camper like you do. My average transmission temp empty is like 100-120*F right now with 70*F temperature after driving 150 miles. My EGT's hover around the 550*F at 65 MPH on flat ground. I actually welcome some heat to the transmission being it really never gets hot enough to get off the 100*F mark now. Now towing that will change a bunch but right now 95% of my travel is going to be empty truck. I know the heat wrap in your case will be a bonus with the weight and wind resistance you have.

LIke myself I've got a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 Magnum. My problem is 91 Octane gasoline is costing $3.389 a gallon now and Diesel is $3.259 as of today. Then you figure the 96 is only getting maybe 15-16 MPG when I've been hitting 19-20 MPG in the diesel so still hands down the diesel is still winning the MPG race. Now if I can get the funds together next and drop fresh rubber on the 96 Dodge I'm planning on dropping from the 235/85 R16 to 245/75 R16 tires which will change the final ratio from 3.43 to 3.72. This should give a mild increase to MPG on the 96 and make it better for operating costs.

No joke...

Yes it will work with a Banks.

Ive got to be Thankful to several people and business for getting me this far. DAP, Quadzilla Power, Blue Top Steering Gear, South Bend Clutch, ISSPro Gauges, list goes on. Yeah I wish I had more money to play and more time to play with new toyz. Seriously I'm happy with my truck done well for 340k miles and still going. Can't complain.

Not typically. Basically the P0122 or P0123 is when the APPS sensor goes out of range either hi or lo voltage. When it does the ECM normally dead pedals for protection so not to either be in WOT or so low to possibly stall the engine. The P0121 code is when the voltage of the APPS and the IVS don't agree with each other this is more common when the owner has done voltage adjustment on worn sensors. So the rare part is to have a spot in the cruising realm that the rheostat starts to wear out and the voltage dips. Still in a normal range but just voltage changed. This can be seen on a live data tool where the throttle is held steady and the TPS signal is jumping up and down possibly. Then if you change the position slightly the value now is steady and normal again showing the weak spot you've just past.

Don't use a wrench or a ratchet. If you can use an impact gun. Better chances of shocking it loose with impact than pulling torque on an already rusted fastener. I agree lots of PB blaster for a couple of days soaking. Block Heater is good for holding the temp up for you around 100-110*F.

APPS sensor could be wore out. Typically there is a P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes present. Anytime the TPS signal drop to zero the code will be thrown not to mention the ECM should go dead pedal because the throttle value is out of range. Now the shutting down issue is another possible electronic problem I would start by testing the alternator for excessive AC noise. If the AC noise is too high it can muddy the tach signal and create all kinds of problems. I agree with @dripley we need the error codes on this truck grab an OBDII reader and plugin. List the code numbers for us.

That's about the only thing I like about the Smarty is the ability to turn on the 3 cylinder high idle software. I wish they had it selectable so you could turn it off if you wanted.

Go stock. There is no reason for a 3 piece. Rockauto has them for $125.00... DORMAN 674602

Some truth to that. PCM is the primary computer to set up the CCD Network but ECM is a secondary computer. Now the PCM has no control over the reported MAP value CANBus. Remember Quadzilla is hooked up on the CANBus lead and doesn't use the CCD network. At this point, the PCM could be missing and unhooked and the MAP value would remain the same. Now we are back to wiring issues, MAP sensor issue, ground issue, etc. even a possible ECM issue.

Here... Timbo's APPS exposed. Assembled with wiper arm.

Pockets aren't deep... I'm bored right now...

Don't snivel... I'm paying $3.089 for Diesel or $3.28 for 91 Octane Gas... Cheap for Me...

That's feasible... At least for 0 to 60 times you can do that legally. Hmmm... Don't give me bad ideas... Special members area. Oh! Slap me before I do something stupid...

I've already touch 21 MPG with the Quadzilla in the dead of winter here. I'm waiting to see this summer and summer fuel when I can get the higher numbers.

Don't feel bad I've got a Smarty touch here that I can use because I don't have a Windows Computer to run the UDC software. Basically just S-03 tuner. With my set up I can't use the darn thing because my truck isn't stock. So the S-03 tuner will be overly smokey and timing too high. Quadzilla way different deal. 3 times the power, full control of fuel (wiretap also) and timing. Can't go wrong. Now if your truck was a Common Rail I would be telling you to jump on the Smarty tuner. Way better tuner on Common Rail.