Mopar1973Man

Don't forget mechanical damage of the CAD vacuum motor. Like mine was struck by debris and bent the rod in the vacuum motor causing it to hang up and stick. Still to this day that truck hangs up on the release you need to stop back up 5 feet and the CAD will release. Been several times to have issues with vacuum lines, under heavy throttle vacuum low have the CAD unlock, list goes on. MoparMom even owned a Chevy S10 with a similar system and had the same issues with vacuum and loss of 4WD truck was sold within a few years it didn't survive Idaho winters at all. Non-CAD system doesn't have these issues. Even with a driveshaft that spins 100% of the time when you engage its lock. When you push that lever back to 2WD it's instantly unlocked. No CAD collar to hang up or vacuum issues. A much simpler system with no failures. Being I own one of both system the 1996 Dodge is CAD axle and my 2002 Dodge is NON-CAD axle. I've had to replace the one on my 1996 and its a NAP unit. Still having issues with hanging CAD ring on release. It'll engage fine but you must stop and back up to release this on. It was doing this before the change and after as well.

Right there on the bottom of his post... 2001 Dodge Ram, Cummins Turbo Diesel qdlb, 2500, 100hp Fireball injectors, Hamilton Big Stick Cam, Goerend 3 disc tc, 4 inch MBRP exhaust, FTE Resonator, Raptor 100, arp head studs, ats co-pilot, Quad xzt, j-hook, lots of gauges, lots of mag-hytec, bhaf, vulcan big line kit, Walker Engineering Air Sep, Over 1,000,000 miles on my 53 Block!!!! 2005 Dodge Ram, Cummins Turbo Diesel qdlb, 2500, dtt vb, dtt shift enhancer, billet bits 2006 Dodge Ram, Cummins Turbo Diesel qdlb, 3500

Don't believe it. Ive got a college degree in Electronics and Computer Science from ITT Tech. Cost me over $50,000 and today that piece of paper isn't worth a penny. Everything I studied and went to school for no longer exist. Transistor radios, Analog TV's and IBM computer with 8088 processor. 1980s stuff... Lol...

More metal, more weight. Rubber has less density than metal. But don't let this blind you. Wider faced tires contain more metal belting than a narrow faced tire. So when I compared 235 vs a 265 on both 16 inch rim was a fair measure and shedding 23 pounds of weight. Now changing the wheel added the weight back where you lost in the width of the steel belt.

Now that I'm at home and at a computer. I was on my cellphone all day. (Sorry about that...) I guess this a new thing to me to see a steering wheel control interface. https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/ASWC-1?Year=2005&Make=Dodge&Model=Ram+2500 Beyond that I've got no idea... Never seen or played with anything like this. All I can say is buy and try it. I'm going to have to admit I'm green to this and never heard of anyone using this before.

No timing. No fuel management. No boost fooling. What do you expect? Mine is no different it doggy and slow even with +75HP injectors and no Quadzilla. Really smoke on launches. Still laggy... Now plug the Quadzilla in I've got a timing curve to enhance spooling, fuel management to get the turbo to spool not spew black smoke. Then boost fooler so you can exceed 19 PSI of boost. Then if you want to go farther just turn on a level 4 and above now you got a wiretap and even more fuel. Still, even with all this, I've got no real smoke. Maybe a haze and puff. No matter what you'll need something for fuel management and timing management. Canned tuner like Edge and Smarty are very limited and not designed for setup beyond stock really. They do give some adjustments for fuel management (for smoke control).

NV5600 is the magic word. Soon as you say 6 speed it goes up in price fast. Then...New Venture (New Process) closed down after 124 years of service. Since 6 speeds only made for Dodge and very small year range the part is hard to come by. 5 Speeds are plentiful because of the usage in Chevy as well Dodge trucks and for a much wider range of time. There are more remanufactured parts for the 5 speed today than the 6 speed.

Basically the computer in the cab that handles the steering wheel control. The stereo controls sent back different voltages that the central timer converts into digital signals on the CCD network then the factory stereo is hooked to the CCD network and receives the data for volume and tuner controls. Won't work... Has to be a factor stereo to work. Again it got be able to communicate with the central timer on the CCD network.

Geez where are you getting your rebuilt at? When I broke the mainshaft it was 1800 for all new bearings, syncros, and replaced 5th gear because the inter hub lost its hard facing. I could of had it for 1400 if I didn't break the mainshaft and wore out 5th gear.

I've got to apologize for not posting MPG logs... 340951 - 340666 = 285 ÷ 12.935 = 22.03 MPG (5/1/18) 341245 - 340955 = 290 ÷ 13.726 = 21.12 MPG (5/3/18) 341541 - 341245 = 296 ÷ 14.563 = 20.32 MPG (5/5/18) Trailer towing (~30 miles) 341787 - 341541 = 246 ÷ 11.286 = 21.79 MPG (5/8/18) Here we are up to date... 21.49 Avg MPG.

14 / 17 / 21 / 24 / 27 That is what I'm running.

Contact Peter directly at South Bend Clutch ask him. I would avoid ceramic clutches it will eat the pressure plate.

Low fluid... 2nd gear issues, bad gear. Any metal in the oil?

I'm not paranoid like some people that are afraid to post there real name, phone number, etc. I don't care if the Gov't is tracking me. I'm not doing anything illegal. If people are so good at tracking people why is it so hard for law enforcement to trackdown criminals and put them away? Makes you think about the whole tracking thing...

Yeah LG G3 phone. Now my LG G5 gets warm but never shutdown yet.

In not about RPM matching and about the feel. Once you have done it enough you get the picture. It's about gaining the slack on the gear to slip out and letting it fall and slip back in. You'll find driving this way you shift gears early. Too high in the RPM will trap the gear and make it hard to get out and back in. Too low can be just as bad too. There is no magic match RPM either each truck and transmission is a bit different and behaves differently. I've driven Eaton fuller 8 speeds (Freight shaker) and Eaton Fuller 10 speeds (KW) One of my favorite fire trucks... Cummins Big Cam 400 with Eaton Fuller 10 speed. We've converted to a water tender over the years looks way different now.

Turbo wise as the drive pressure rises above your boost pressure that's when EGT's jump. Knowing this you can exceed it for short spans for like a passing burst to gain the speed but then back out the EGT's fall quick. Again for my purpose, it works well but not optimal.

If you have driven larger truck with Eaton fuller you find out there do not have syncros at all. So it a float shift you do in those trucks. Its a matter of letting the tension off the gear matching RPM for a brief second pull it out then let the RPM's fall and slip it back in as the RPM's fall. This would be an upshift. A downshift is a bit tricky for newbies. You would match the RPM slip it out of the gear your in tap your throttle to gain RPM's to match and slip back in. That all I know of. When your float shifting the very minor amount of RPM offset will pull on the syncros but if your matching really close then I really doubt any harm will happen. Basically using the syncros like a clutch trying to slow the gear to match. Again if your RPMs are right then really there shouldn't be any wear. Yes. That is the key to doing this right. In larger trucks, you can bang out the first 5 gear in less than 100 yards.

I would say more than 350 HP. If you get there you'll understand the power difference is WAY different. In my design of power I've got plenty of power on tap, I would gamble a guess closer to 400 HP being my boost gauge can snap upwards of 42-43 PS then settle just above 40 PSI. The only difference is I'm using that HX35/40 Hybrid. The exhaust side is the same as your HX35W same turbine and housing technically the 35 PSI limit still holds true. The compressor is HX40 which is upgraded from the 54mm wheel to the 60 mm wheel. Flows more air. The only thing I need this power for is passing other vehicles so 2-5 second burst over the turbos limits EGT's rise quickly but it gets the job done. Are there better setups? Yes. Will it cost more money? Yes. Do I have the money? Absolutely Not.

I use an app called Life 360 so I can track where MoparMom is at all times and visa-versa. My GPS is on and on high accuracy. Both my LG G5 and MoparMom's LG G4 last pretty good on battery life.

HX35W will safely do 35 PSI for the life of the truck. Just like you answered yourself... CanBus tuners are just that. Wiretap is a whole different animal. Being I drove a full year without a wiretap on a Quadzilla if feels well like a Edge EZ or Smarty S-03. Which is pretty mild. Now wiretap kicks in the tires start to breaking loose. Now your jumping from 60 HP tuner to 180 HP tuner and pouring the fuel at the engine. It might be short burst but boy the power difference is very different.

There is a lot off different factors that will change this number. Gears, tires, injectors, actual max boost, etc. This why it's at least a good point of reference to figure out how much power you can create.

As long as you can do it without forcing the gear you should be OK. Still not a suggested method but I understand buying time.

No. Total. So if a HX35W makes 35 PSI your going to roughly make 350 HP. Like I said rule of thumb as a guide.

Rule of thumb... 1 PSI of boost is equal to 10 HP.