Mopar1973Man

I was just thinking the same thing that he should get away from the smarty S-03 tuning and move over to either Smarty UDC or Quadzilla to control fuel to boost numbers. That is one thing a Smarty S-03 is kind of short in is fuel control for big injectors. Bingo. Not only that you don't need a PC and do all your tuning on your mobile device. I'm currently sitting on a Smarty Touch. But Can't really use it till I find a Windows PC. The Canned S-03 tune will be smokey and timing map will be all wrong. Being Smarty UDC doesn't work on Linux I'm stuck till I can get a Windows PC just to be able to tune this Smarty. Till then the Quadzilla Adrenaline does it all without a PC and has 3 times the power of a Smarty Touch on a 24V Cummins.

Yes. If you are not using a lube in your fuel the lifespan typically is about 100-150k miles and pump typically wears out. This could be an injector dropping pop pressure or air being drawn into the fuel. I would vote for air in the fuel possibly or maybe on a reach... Maybe valve lash before jumping towards that VP44. After all this I would look towards the injectors acting goofy. Bosch RV275 don't mean that they all popped the same and flow the same. Could have one popping low. If all this checks out you could try the pump but it don't sound like VP44 time for me it still starts and runs. Typically when a pump goes they don't run or barely run. Mine would barely run and only drive 20-30 MPH WOT with heavy/nasty timing knock.

If you want I'm managing a few websites now. I'd be glad to support your venture. http://prevailwebmanagement.com/clients.htm/ I'm at $719 a year ($59.85 per month) for quality hosting. I'm running 2 Cores, 4 GB or RAM, 90 GB of hard drive and 3 TB of bandwidth. Shared hosting is very limited but OK for a startup operation. The problem is most of them limit connections to 100 total. Most servers are too small to handle traffic loads. I'm currently racking 500-600 (Max 750) connections per minute here.

Go for the full 1/2" lines. 3/8" tend to see a bit more pressure up and down changes between idle to WOT. I rarely see more than 3 PSI from idle to WOT!

Opps... I guess the thread I pulled on DieselBombers has a conflict of info. I would follow Vulcan Performance.

No. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

Adapter 06JIC X M12 with seal. Threads are 12mm X 1.5 TPI.

Enuf said... I kept my stock filter housing and still use it. You'll need to get a big line kit between the stock filter and injection pump.

Signs of low compression. I would do a compression test. Another is slow starter which can create the same problem. I pulled my grid heater in the middle of winter and been starting with average temperatures in 20's no issues.

MAP sensor has nothing to do with Idle. You can be missing the MAP sensor and it will still idle fine.

First time I did injector work I created a nasty random miss. No external leak and a random hard start. After talking to some of the guys found out I installed then wrong. So I re-did my install exactly the way I was told basically install and tighten the crossover and then tighten the injector hold down. Now I got a good seal on the crossover tube. Before the injector was clamped in the head BEFORE the crossover tube was tightened so the injector won't self-align to the crossover tube so there is a poor seal between the crossover tube and the injector and the leak is just blown in the return rail back to the tank.

Sound like you got a possible boost fooler issue then you need to head towards that Quadzilla soon. As for testing the MAP circuit in a nutshell. Unhook both end MAP sensor and the ECM. Now ohm test from end to end. A passing grade is <5 ohms. Leaving both unhooked now go from pin to GROUND. A passing grade is infinite ohms. Hook up the ECM lead turn the ignition ON engine off test the 5V pin. Make sure you got 5.00V present on that pin. Leave your current boost fooler out of the circuit and just hook up your MAP sensor. Clear all your error code go for drive. If no codes are thrown then that circuit is good you should be able to reach 19-20 PSI of boost without a boost fooler and possible rise slightly pass and feel the defuel kick in without codes. I typically still reach 23-25 PSI without codes but it dog out above 20 PSI for me and struggles to build more boost. This is normal.

Possible Causes Other DTCs Boost Pressure Sensor 5-volt Supply Circuit MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground MAP Sensor Intermittent Wiring Problem ECM No listing of a turbo there. So you need to go over the P0237 code diagnostic carefully. Basically if the MAP sensor is throwing the P0237 its in LIMP MODE. The ECM can no longer detect boost pressure so the turbo will not spool.

I just cap off the turbo lay some pressure to the air system. Then soap down the system looking for bubbles.

I normally tighten / snug my crossover tubes FIRST then tighten my injectors hold downs.

@Me78569 could... Mine never was right.

My bad... I did my post off my phone and didn't pay attention to the sig... My bad...

Be aware some of the DDRP pumps have smaller plumbing ports than the full 100 GPH or 150 GPH pumps. You can increase the line size but the port will still be a restriction.

As far as I know, the dealer is the only option. There might be some 3rd party stuff out there but I've not seen it yet.

Need to see want data is being fed to the ECM. Voltage won't mean much it the data that ECM process into fuel and timing.

100% on exhaust brake my average brake life is 200k miles. 90% of my stopping is done on a exhaust brake. High end pads will eat the rotors quicker. Ill post more tonight.

Easier yet hook up a live data tool look for change of value.

You have to change boards either direction. Up to 4K or down to 3K. There is a hardware difference.

So, that bounces you back to pressure regulator on the AirDog/Raptor.