Mopar1973Man

Go through this diagnostic...

Actually, that is called "Turbo Bark". That is not the wastegate but the built-up pressure attempting to spin the turbo backwards because the driven pressure dropped away too quickly. So the solution to that problem is to ease off the throttle not drop the throttle.

The biggest thing is to vent the vapor from the crankcase. The biggest problem is too many people not thinking long haul. So they attempt to vent all the way to the back bumper or something silly. Like the 12V tappet cover I would just grab a chunk of hose and hang it straight down. If you still on the factory 24V tappet cover then my PVC pipe mod works great. Way too many people attempt to vent to far away and end up blowing seals or gaskets out. Remember there is alway water vapor that vents to so if the pipe has low spots or can puddle internally it will eventually freeze shut. Like other attempting to do it with rubber hose and have it kink shut. The worse phone call I got from a guy that was upset that he didn't follow my advice and had it blow the tappet cover gasket on the Alcan highway in the middle of nowhere. He called me and told me I was right and never to use rubber hose for venting the crankcase it ended very poorly with him paying a very expensive tow bill. Another person called me in the dead of winter to do the same thing and tell me don't attempt to extend my idea to the transfer case. Needless to say the PVC pipe filled with water from condensing in the pipe and froze shut again blowing out the front crank seal and the tappet cover.

@jlbayes By chance do you have an up to date timing chart for the P7100 pumps? Something that shows the plunger lift measurements for those values...

Basically controlling the pressure getting to the wastegate. So if the hose was directly connect to the wastegate it would be open by 20 PSI and it quits building boost. This little 5 dollar part is going to regulate the pressure getting to the wastegate so the wastegate stay shut longer allowing you to build more boost. This does create more power. HX35W has a maximum limit of 35 PSI HY35W has a maximum limit of 32 PSI Beyond this your hitting the choke point of the turbo. If you had a drive pressure gauge hook up to the exhaust manifold and the boost pressure gauge you would see the drive pressure rising faster than boost which is the choke point and EGT's just take off from there.

You might try sending the ECM to any of the ECM rebuliders we have listed and see if that works out for you.

Yes, I can... Main level 1 = 40 HP 2 = 60 HP 3 = 80 HP 4 = 100 HP 5 = 120 HP Sublevel 1 = 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 2 = 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 3 = 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost 4 = Some extra fuel added at low boost 5 = Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost. I typically ran 5x3 in the later years but early I was on 5x5 and could drive without making a ton of smoke.

Go to this link. https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ The actual steps so you know. Go up to the top of the page where your username and avatar is and click. Then select "Account Settings" from that drop-down menu. On this next screen select "Signature" from the list. Now type your signature. Add all the information you know about your truck. Then hit the "Save" button. You are done...

Then I would say slow down a second. First get the Quadzilla first you find out you are really close just with that. Then toss in some injectors @Me78569 would suggest (7 x 0.010 Injectors). That will get you the fuel you need to reach it. Now as for the turbo at this point you could do either. But without the injectors and the tuner that truck will be laggy. Kind of like seeing guys that have twin turbos with RV275 injectors. Yes, I'm sorry to say I've seen this...

The last few times I've never bother to even crack any high-pressure lines open. Just cranked for about 20 seconds and it would start. I would bump the starter crack the fuel supply line till fuel was present at the VP44. Jump in the truck and just fire it up. Mine like I said, is about 20 seconds of solid cranking it fires right up.

There is no port in the transmission where the fluid flows enough to be in any of those ports. Either put in in the pan or the return line. Personally, I'm going for the pan. I'm going to put the sensor down low in the pan so it doubles for a drain plug.

Now @IBMobile when you unwrapped that part of the loom which way does the ground cable go? How much unwrapping did you have to do? As for the last photo I hope you installed an alternator fuse. The reason there is an alternator fuse is that if some moron hooks up a set of jumper cable reverse polarity that alternator will be frying quickly if not on fire.

Holy Crap. That is expensive! https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=EH227&referer=search_form-allprod I'd go to Transmission Cooler hose before I buy this stuff! Wow!

HX35W will be divided exhaust housing where the HY35W is a single port. Take notice tot the exhaust housing the 9cm2 has a raised rib on the HY35W. The HX35W is a smooth faced exhaust housing which is typically 12cm2 . HX35W has a hose between the wastegate motor and the discharge. The HY35W has a hard steel tube.

I'm going to kick this off with a rebuild thread here. Ryan @Blue-Top Steering was nice enough to set me up with the seal kit for my steering box. The only tool I had to borrow was a pitman arm puller. First thing I did was tie the steering wheel to the seat base in the center position. This is to protect the clock spring more than anything. Next I pulled the pitman arm nut and lock washer. Slipped the pitman arm over and using a 1/2 drive ratchet pulled a good load of pressure on it and smack the pitman arm a bit with a hammer to free it. Pulled a bit more and off it came. Then moved up to the 13mm socket and wobble head ratchet and spun the pinch bolt out. Wiggle the coupler and steering shaft came right off. Next was reaching up with a 3/4" wrench and pulled the power steering hoses. Make sure to have a catch bucket it will drain the system. Mine had a bit of a foul smell might be time for another flush which most of the system will be emptied. That left me the 3 bolts holding the steering gearbox on the frame. So in a timely manner, Blue Top's seal kit shows up today. The only thing I had changed up is the input shaft seal could one of two different designs. I had Ryan supply both seals. To be continued on my next day at home.

Because the fact is the same air comes in a 3" intake horn with no issues why do you need 4 or 5 inch exhaust? Even with expanding gases it will still fit in a 3" pipe. Now the science is yeah there is going to be some pressure there but will flow through muffler or straight pipe there is no restriction to hang it up. This why for racing they would look into the 4 and 5 inch exhaust for more flow because they are running WOT. Daily driver different story where you run WOT 1-2% of the time. More or less yeah. In the past most tuners didn't give control of how much fuel and timing so most canned tunes where about the power and the smoke. Now with the Quadzilla you can produce a clean burning tune and control the fuel and timing to fit the engine without the need of huge exhaust and dual air ram intakes. Still making good power without killing the EGT gauge.

Nope. Won't change much. If I take my backdown setting for EGT's and turn them off I can tip 1,500*F EASY! Trust me 4" is not going to drop your EGT's just because you bolt it on. What will change EGT's is more timing advancement which will lower the EGT's, more fire in the cylinder and less blowing out the turbo. (This might need to be looked at on your tune) My problem is I've got no control of my boost pressure (Edge Products boost elbow - non-adustable) and I'm sure I'm hitting the choke point of the turbo and just creating massive heat. The other step is I've running my wiretap tune on top of a good stand-alone CANBus tune. I need to rebuild the CANBus tune to control fuel on the upper end. Already got 4" and can get wild on the EGT's... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/275-4-inch-diamond-eye-aluminized-exhaust/

Won't change the EGT's much if any at all. I've been running 3" for a very long time. No issues. Then jump to 4" after mine rotten off the only thing that changed for me was the DRONE. Even with a muffler there is more DRONE than change in EGT's.

Totally guarded by the skid plate. Now the first trip offroad to get firewood and skid logs I would end up taking that AirDog right off the frame... Bad idea... No even protected from flying drbirs from the front tires.

Like for example. Manual or Automatic transmission HO or SO engine Highline central timer with security feature This are just some of the things that can make trading PCM and ECM hard at times.

Electrical options. Anything different between the PCM options and ECM options.

For highway like that I find a speed that I can travel most of the road that doesn't require huge drops braking in speed and then acceleration again. Basically what your doing is converting you forward energy into heat on the brakes and then accelerating again back to set speed again. I've got a 17 mile stretch of road from Tamarack Mill to Council, ID which is posted 55 MPH which I know I can run that speed but every corner I would be hammering down the brakes to make the corners. So I back down to 50 MPH most of the corners I can make and if I plan right and back off the throttle I can coast to the tighter corners and get around without wasting the energy on hitting the brakes.

... and the radiator / cooling system.

That's about it. Quadzilla doesn't use IAT temperature for tuning value as far as I know. So the MPG fooler has no value on the Quadzilla. Quadzilla provides a 6 CYL mode which you can terminate sooner that 170*F which is nice for fuel savings. But the switch is the only one that can provide 3 CYL mode on command.

Automatic or manual? If you are manual like me then the PCM does control the APPS sensor line because there is no vacuum cruise motor like the automatics use. So my PCM is directly connected to the ECM sharing the APPS sensor wires. Where automatics still share it but only for sense of how much TPS signal for shift signal. If you unplugged the PCM and the signal is now stable it still lean back on the fact the PCM is screwing up the signal. Look at C1 pin 22 that is APPS sensor signal. Now look here at Pin 28... Yes, they are connected and share the signal.