Mopar1973Man

I'm fighting to keep the rust at bay. So far I'm holding my own.

Now here is a Dragon fire VP44 injection pump. ($2,474.00) Why even mess with the NAPA pump... https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-5170-industrial-injection-dragon-flow-extreme-vp44-injection-pump-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins.aspx

You would be better off buying another truck.

I don't have a Windows PC either... Strictly Linux and Android. No. Just key on. The Live Data yes needs the vehicle driven or running.

OBDLink LX is the dongle I've got. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ I've used both the OBDLink App and Dash Command (Palmer Performance). I prefer the Palmer Performance being it does auto connect properly where the OBDLink app doesn't you manual have to remember to reconnect each time.

Link?

I'm bringing this topic back to the top. I've been warned by a few forum members and local fuel stations that the price of diesel is heading towards $4.00 a gallon for sure. I've changed over to hypermiling again. I'm going to build that Economy Tune from hell. I'm going to reach for that 28 MPG and beat my old 27.2 MPG high mark. I'm going to start reporting my tank to tank hand math as I fill the truck. I'm at 340k miles currently. I'm also going to do some injector building on my old stock injectors. I'm going for a set of 7 x 0.009 injectors increase the pop pressure to 315 bar most likely. Then send my current injectors back and have them re-popped to 315 bar. So my days of hypermiling are going to return again. Since I'm required to continue to make these trip to Ontario, OR for MoparMom's dialysis treatments I've got to make the Cummins efficient as possible to make it pass that surge of fuel prices. I'm starting as of last tank of fuel. Let see what I get for MPG's when I return down to Payette for fuel on Saturday. Another task I need to do is my valve lash since its most likely needing a bit of TLC. If I get lucky I might see if I can find a used set of 245/75 R16 tires and change up the gear ratio to optimize the MPG factor reducing the load on the engine. Currently, on flat ground, at 55 MPH my engine load is about 17-19%.

Yes sir. I ran that way so I wouldn't void the VP44 warranty right off. Just ran level 3 tunes and never bother to configure the wiretap settings of my tunes. Now with the wiretap hooked up I'm only using between 1,200us to 1,400us of wiretap pulse. Beyond that it just becomes excessively smoky.

Yes Sir. I lost my factory 16x8 aluminum wheels which cracked. Then the other set of modular aluminum wheels I had the offset kept slinging road salt and mud on the side windows. Got tired of that... The Factory 16x7 steel wheel fit the 235/85 R16 properly and tucked the wheel back under the fender where they belong. Remember I'm rolling 60k miles a year...

I have been for over 25 years no issues. Matter of fact I'm gearing up for doing A/C work all summer. I've got my first customer today and getting ready to haul to Riggins, ID. There is a few things I ran into NAPA wise I will not purchase. So be smart price check things. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB22355 - Fuel shut off solenoid 12V for $432.00 (I can buy 4 of these from Gould Gear!) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB230223 - VP44 injection pump $1839.00 (I can buy a Dragon Fire for that much!)

Yes. This is why I suggesting this it will wipe out the bad tune and start over fresh.

I just stopped in yesterday and got a passenger side brake cable and ended up with a free NAPA tee shirt too.

Something like this... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Westek-Heavy-Duty-Outdoor-Timer-Black-TM12DOLB/100645892

That's where my OBDLink LX shines the best. I can leave the ignition key on engine off grab my cell phone lay it on the valve cover and monitor signals while I test for sensor issues. Corded OBDII tools suck because now you can't watch the display with you wiggle wires or test anything. I very very rarely ever use my corded tools any longer because of the cord limitation which isn't long enough to even make it outside the cab.

Booting issues of the ECM will stop the truck from even starting. The very first instruction is to do the blub check for the WTS and fire the grid heaters if required for the IAT temperature.

No. Normal operation for me. You might look at the live data for the ECT and IAT temperatures.

That's a 235/85 R16... Same only 1mm taller than the 265 but 1.1 inches narrower. 245/75 R16 is a 1 inch shorter where the 285 is 1 inch taller.

Try uninstalling the app and reinstalling. It might straighten out the corrupt data you've got.

@JAG1 pm me Ive got a great one wire kill for your truck. It will never start. I promise.

I get 1k to 1.5k before its black. Roughly. But I've been good about 6k to 7k oil changes. Every 1.5 months.

Weird you mention soot level vs exhaust brake. Being the original document suggested using the exhaust brake for warm up. I tend to agree that it seems to increase soot. Ill watch on my next oil change how quick I darken the oil without the exhaust brake.

I ran across a new article on Daily Mail with MoparMom where they explain how easy it is to buy fob blanks and the programming tools to produce your own key fobs. The example they show is stealing a Ford vehicle in under 2 minutes without breaking anything on the vehicle. Basically, the device will tell the vehicle to forget the previous key fob and use the new key fob provided for entry. A person can do the in a normal parking lot in daylight because you just pressing a few buttons on a device and the door is unlocked and you can start the vehicle without any tools or breaking anything. No one is any wiser about the theft. This is becoming a problem where Amazon and eBay are selling the device to hack the security of the vehicle for $100 to $200 and you can use it as many times as you wish.

I would replace an ignition switch way before it got that bad.

Going to 285's is pushing the gear ratio lower to 3.44 from 3.55. This adds more torque trapping to the transmission and EGT's temperatures. Just showing the effect of 1mm change of tire height 235's is 1 mm taller than 265's tire that changes the 3.55 gears to 3.54 gears. Changing to the other stock (labeled tire) 245/75 R16 with push the ratio up to 3.69. Small tire changes can make a big change in the final gear ratio.

Exactly what I did this last winter. When the mornings where cold I would plug in the truck when I got up in the morning by the time I got coffee and dressed for the day the truck was warmed up good. Started without a hitch. Remember the larger industrial Cummins don't even have grid heaters or glow plugs in some applications. Only the 2nd Gen with there crappy 16.3:1 compression ratio. I can start down in the 20's without grid heaters but that engine is not happy for the first 10 seconds. My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day.