Mopar1973Man

Yeah... I did my HX35/40 Hybrid. All I can say is have lots of PB Blaster handy. You might want to have the taps for cleaning all the threads up. Take your time and make sure to assemble everything correctly. If you missed anything during assembly and the wheels won't turn with the nut in place double check again. I forgot my thrust washer. After that, the nut tighten up fine and spun true.

Gears... They can do amazing things when used properly.

Stay in touch I'll guide you to building your website. Don't do any of those Wix or Site Builder idea not a good idea.

Ive enjoyed my straight through muffled 3 inch exhaust. Now I've got a diamond eye 4 inch exhaust with flow through muffled its not loud in the cab but the drone is louder now than the old 3 inch. I ran straight pipe 3 inch for years no issues for drone but it was loud. Everyone knew when I was coming home.

Now I've been listening to @Me78569 talk about bucking if the timing is too advanced for the RPM band I found a way of testing for the 1,500 band in a way. If you let the RPMs sag down below the 1,500 mark and you roll into the throttle and bucks and jerks. Then the 1,500 band timing is too high. You should test down low as 1,000 RPM really. So this brought my 1,500 RPM band down to about 13 to 14 degrees and now starting of a roll at 1,000 RPM it much smoother launching off. I've seen several tune basing the 1,500 in the 15 to 16 degree range and this on my truck produces low end bucking during launching off the clutch more so in 2nd gear launches. The other thing that help some is the 50% timing scaling and the 5 degrees of low boost timing reduct. This was another thing that @Me78569 bought up and I like the results of that. By 50% TPS signal your at your maximum timing again. I know the automatics have a certain amount of slip provided by the torque converter. This works out find for then being they can get spun up easier. But us manual boys need a bit more retard in the 1,500 column to get the boost building and the power on.

Bring it on...

Not like Edge Products where its $150 bucks for unlock code.

Heat exchanger for the transmission fluid. There is 2 coolant lines and 2 ATF lines.

Some of us are even smarter... Look at the turbo timer EGT setting.

Typically guys without pyrometer gauges end up with cracked manifolds. Here I am with 340k miles and OEM manifold no issues.

I like this idea much better with the amount of road salt used in my area. Wrapped anything will rot much faster.

Still RockAuto at $125 got that beat...

Where are the trailer brakes and trailer brake controller?

Might be the next step for me I'm closing in on 200k miles on these Rancho's.

Sway bar bushings would be a good idea for my truck. I'm interested in what you do here. I've got a mild issue with axle wrap now. Daily driving isn't so bad, but lay the power to the truck and axle hops up and tires spin lose. Little secret I'll share. Take the seats out and then pull the carpet out. Now hang the carpet or lay it over a picnic table. Now using a power washer with a wide angle nozzle you can power clean that carpet fast. It will be like factory fresh when it dries in the sun. I've done this on the 1996 Dodge Ram once and it looked like a new truck on the inside for several years. Now its due for this again. So is the 2002 Dodge it needs to have the carpets washed badly. While the seats are out you can clean them much easier. The rest of the cab is super easy to clean at that point too. Check your floor metal for damage or rust and deal with it while the carpet is out of the truck. Just for fun compare. Being I've got the Quadzilla tuner and not carrying the camper like you do. My average transmission temp empty is like 100-120*F right now with 70*F temperature after driving 150 miles. My EGT's hover around the 550*F at 65 MPH on flat ground. I actually welcome some heat to the transmission being it really never gets hot enough to get off the 100*F mark now. Now towing that will change a bunch but right now 95% of my travel is going to be empty truck. I know the heat wrap in your case will be a bonus with the weight and wind resistance you have.

LIke myself I've got a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 Magnum. My problem is 91 Octane gasoline is costing $3.389 a gallon now and Diesel is $3.259 as of today. Then you figure the 96 is only getting maybe 15-16 MPG when I've been hitting 19-20 MPG in the diesel so still hands down the diesel is still winning the MPG race. Now if I can get the funds together next and drop fresh rubber on the 96 Dodge I'm planning on dropping from the 235/85 R16 to 245/75 R16 tires which will change the final ratio from 3.43 to 3.72. This should give a mild increase to MPG on the 96 and make it better for operating costs.

No joke...

Yes it will work with a Banks.

Ive got to be Thankful to several people and business for getting me this far. DAP, Quadzilla Power, Blue Top Steering Gear, South Bend Clutch, ISSPro Gauges, list goes on. Yeah I wish I had more money to play and more time to play with new toyz. Seriously I'm happy with my truck done well for 340k miles and still going. Can't complain.

Not typically. Basically the P0122 or P0123 is when the APPS sensor goes out of range either hi or lo voltage. When it does the ECM normally dead pedals for protection so not to either be in WOT or so low to possibly stall the engine. The P0121 code is when the voltage of the APPS and the IVS don't agree with each other this is more common when the owner has done voltage adjustment on worn sensors. So the rare part is to have a spot in the cruising realm that the rheostat starts to wear out and the voltage dips. Still in a normal range but just voltage changed. This can be seen on a live data tool where the throttle is held steady and the TPS signal is jumping up and down possibly. Then if you change the position slightly the value now is steady and normal again showing the weak spot you've just past.

Don't use a wrench or a ratchet. If you can use an impact gun. Better chances of shocking it loose with impact than pulling torque on an already rusted fastener. I agree lots of PB blaster for a couple of days soaking. Block Heater is good for holding the temp up for you around 100-110*F.

APPS sensor could be wore out. Typically there is a P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes present. Anytime the TPS signal drop to zero the code will be thrown not to mention the ECM should go dead pedal because the throttle value is out of range. Now the shutting down issue is another possible electronic problem I would start by testing the alternator for excessive AC noise. If the AC noise is too high it can muddy the tach signal and create all kinds of problems. I agree with @dripley we need the error codes on this truck grab an OBDII reader and plugin. List the code numbers for us.

That's about the only thing I like about the Smarty is the ability to turn on the 3 cylinder high idle software. I wish they had it selectable so you could turn it off if you wanted.

Go stock. There is no reason for a 3 piece. Rockauto has them for $125.00... DORMAN 674602