Mopar1973Man

Verified with a digital thermometer and it right on. Mine rarely comes up above the 130*F mark empty running. Now towing it common to see the 170-190*F realm. The only time I could push that is now shift in 3rd gear crawl a 7% grade in 110*F weather. Now that was the only time I've seen my warning light trip at 225*F. All winter It never moves from the 100*F mark. Most of the summer I'll be below 160*F empty truck. Also interested as well.

Typically most of us just pull the battery leads and tuck them away.

Wow...

After 120 miles of 65 MPH... It tough to get mine even warm on 60 to 70 degree day. No heat shield. No transmission coolers. Just a stock NV4500.

Ok... It sure isn't "Global Warming" it still cold here this morning. It's spring but I'm still seeing 29-32*F mornings.

In my history of work I would say o-rings and compressor front seals.

What little I know of the power puck it just a CANBus tuner without setting. No control of fuel or timing for the end user. Not all that good really.

Between the pintle needle and the nozzle. VCO is what your stock injectors. I'm also running VCO 7 x 0.0085 DAP injectors. Stock HX35W is 54/60/12, Hybrid 35/40 is going to be only 60/60/12. Since you don't have an exhaust brake you can go anywhere. I've got to stay with the hybrid just so I'm not buying another $1,200 exhaust brake.

Typically it because the coolant sensor lead is unplugged. Double check the coolant sensor right near the thermostat housing for good connection. Use a live data tool and see what the value the ECM is seeing. Remember sensor ground is not body ground. Basically, the ECM creates 5V signal and sense the voltage on the same connection. So the ground side of the sensor is the negative side of that 5V circuit. This why I say that sensor ground is not body ground. This is also why sensor are 2 or 3 wire and provide the separate ground because it's not part of the 12V system at all. If you look back in time to the older vehicles the older dodge vehicles had 1 wire temperature sensors because the ground of the sensor was part of the 12V system. Even though the older vehicles still used a modified low voltage signal.

Interesting...

The only reason I did the HX35/40 is because I wanted to keep my exhaust brake. If I didn't have the exhaust brake I would of jumped for a 62/68/12 most likely. Here is the VCO vs SAC...

Actually no. We tried the 6 hay bails. The trailer tongue was too light and dangerous. Pulled the top hay bail off and just strapped 5 down I was good to go. I hauled 3 trips like this and pulled like a dream.

After 15 years of service my doors and now clunking, rattle, wind noise etc. I've been pretty religious about keeping the hinges lubed up and checking for door sag. Actually, my issue was more so in the rear doors which the lower latch was a bit sloppy. I did a bit adjusting to align the striker pin in the middle of the latch gap and make sure the door made a full cycle in on the latch (both latches). Then you have to re-adjust your main door striker pin the same way middle of the latch notch and enough that you get a full cycle of both latches. This really tightens up the doors a bunch and seem to shut solid now and tight. As for door sag, you can check this by having the door open and lifting at the outer bottom corner and seeing if the hinge moves at all. If it does that means you'll need to do a door hinge rebuild. Don' let this go it will ruin your door latch eventually because of misalignment of the striker pin beating the top of the latch. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24617-703-273.aspx

Basically if you do the Blue Chip hot wire test will omit the entire ECM. The VP44 is powered separately and there is no connection to the ECM. As for the ECM if the APPS sensor is in "Idle Position" on the Idle Validation Switch (IVS) then the APPS sensor voltage is ignored and the ECM idle software is used. ECT does control idle speed on a cold startup. So if you going to pull this sensor I would do it after the truck is fully warmed up. I wouldn't want you to think you got a false positive. Colder temperature the higher the idle speed. MAP sensor has no effect on idle controls. Just like Edge Comp with a Smoke Switch it fools the MAP to full boost constantly. IAT only affects the timing of the injection pump. I would only pull this after the truck is fully warmed so not to get a false positive. Hence the MPG fooler switch holding 143*F IAT temp year round. All these sensors will throw a code of some sort being unplugged. You will need to reset all codes afterwards. The VP44 is smarty enough to start and idle by itself without an ECM. The only thing the ECM does at idle time is adjusting the idle speed and pump timing (cold engine and cold IAT).

Simple, he cleaned it and then never drove it. Ask him he doesn't really use his truck much.

I want to bring up something that happened to me. Now last night a friend showed up with one of his friends and we started talking shop, trucks and diesel be exact Cummins in a Ford. Of course I open the hood on both the 2002 and 1996 Dodge let this other guy preview the trucks. After it was all said and done it was getting late the guys packed up and left. I went out and locked up both trucks and had to roll up the windows on the 1996 Dodge. Went in for the night. Got this morning hauled some trash down to the trash can and hear faint music playing to me it sounded like across the road from me. Disregarded the music being its Jet Boat Race weekends figure people are parting somewhere. Fast Forward. Still hearing the music and walked a package down to the mailbox but didn't hear the music come back up and realized its the 1996 Dodge was the source. Unlocked the door and sure enough, the ignition switch was in ACC position and the key was there. So that means last night when I reached in and turn the ignition on to roll up the windows and turn the key to OFF i managed to pull the key out in the ACC position and the radio played all night long and half of today. Funny part the truck started right up. So be aware of your ignition switch and make sure you get it turned OFF after your done in the truck.

Basically, it ohm test from pin to pin from the VP44 plug to the ECM plug. The ohm value should be below 5 ohms for all. Now as for pin to ground with both plug unhooked yet you should get infinite ohms in other words, no shorts to ground. Beyond that, I would do the BlueChip hot wire test and see if the VP44 will fire up as a standalone. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/

This is something I got a member for the other day. Most people don't get the terminals down all the way. The barely grab the top of the battery posts and tighten down terminal. I typically loosen the clamp bolt wide then using a socket and rubber hammer smack the battery terminal down on the battery post fully then snug up the terminal clamp bolt. I know this is not the recommended method of doing this. I just need to buy a pair of terminal spreaders...

Manuals are not a guarantee either...

As long as you don't let the magic smoke out of the wires your doing good... Now we come around full circle again. Dodge managed to produce a charging system with loads in excess of what the alternator can handle and let "The Magic Smoke" out of the alternator diodes. My previous post was in jest but also holds some merit...

You'll make it. Even without the education on electrical. You are at what 4xxk miles? I'm chasing you down at 340k miles now and still rolling.

Did you add yourself to the 911 Database? https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/911-support.html/

Another one of my favorite pictures. 5 one-ton hay bails.

Here is a tidbit I found that sheds a bit of light on the grid heater element. https://goodsonengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/FiresCausedbyFracturedResistanceHeatingElements.pdf In Photo 1, we note that the coils (loops) of this element are relatively uniformly spaced. Such uniform spacing creates a relatively constant surface temperature for the element. At 240 VAC, with a fan blowing (as in actual use), surface temperatures were approximately 470 deg F when measured with a thermocouple. This temperature, however, will lessen as the heater element is used. A nominal 5000 watt heater will drop in wattage (and thus heat output) as a function of time. As with the lightbulb filament, the heater element becomes smaller in diameter over time. On the heater element, this reduction in cross-sectional area is due to oxidation. The smaller cross-sectional area increases resistance, which thus decreases wattage.