Mopar1973Man

I wish you would done just the alternator to verify the AC noise first then the ground wire mod. I've got a few fears about this yet. The fact we never found the cause the diode failure for sure yet. So doing the ground wire mod might keep the noise from hoping in the ECM as quickly. So if we do the ground wire mod and have a failing alternator diode will it give you any warning or will it just torch off your ECM? This is a reason I'm looking for a solution to the diode issue first before resolving the ground wire issue. Still in all my truck ran 10 plus years without any mods and the alternator continue to function fine and no AC noise issues. Still, I'm going to hunt down the noise issue first.

Stock Injectors can do this. Just install a boost elbow and it will hit the ECM limits. It won't trip a light per say or error codes but it will start defuelling at 18-19 PSI if you happen to make it past 25 PSI then the P0234 code will be set. With my current setup of DAP (7 x 0.0085) injectors, HX35/40 hybrid turbo, and the Quadzilla Adrenaline I'm snapping 45 PSI of boost then settling at about 40 PSI at a full run.

Yes. You'll need both. Typically we all use a tuner to take care of boost fooling and fueling control.This provides the boost elbow and the boost fooler. Then on top of that as injectors get bigger you need to be able to set the timing correctly to keep the smoke down. You are going to need the electronics. If you run the injectors you going to find you hit 18-19 PSI and it falls on its face. Boost fooler is needed. Then the fuel map on the ECM is going to be to aggressive and be smoky. Like I said before with bigger nozzles you going to need to add some more timing that stock which is rather on the retarded side.

It happens. My first time installing injectors I had a gnarly rough off beat miss.

That only leaves replacing injectors. Highly doubt its a VP44.

Most likely never see the smoke. Some pressure and spray bottle full of soap water mix works just fine.

Most over the counter data tools will NOT read the ABS speed sensors. Even my more expensive Innova doesn't read ABS on my truck. You'll either have to go to shop that handles ABS modules or go to the dealer to have that tested. Sorry...

47RE is only a 4 Speed transmission. 4th gear and OD are the same gear. You might be thinking the torque converter lockup?

I've been had by eBay. I knew it was too good to be true. The tracking number is invalid no information given. I'm going to have the local post office check and see if they can find anything on the number as well. It's a week past the delivery date. Still no boost controller. This is one of the reason I alway tell people DO NOT buy from eBay. Just like me I just got duped... Not a good source for parts... Take notice its April 22 today...

I'm pretty sure that Diamond Eye and MBRP 4" aluminized are the same thickness IIRC.

Too many people get in a hurry and do weird things on valve lash adjustments. When you are setting the valve lash it should be done on a COLD engine. Now when the jam nut is loosened you want to tighten the set screw (Allen Wrench) till the screw is just touching the feeler gauge. Then the feeler gauge should slide in and out with the slightest resistance. Here is the tough part the jam nut has to be tightened without moving you setting. This takes a bit of thinking to do. If the setting feels slight tight you'll be twisting the set screw slightly loosen as your tightening the jam nut. Reverse applies if the setting is a bit loose you can twist the set screw slightly tight as you tighten the jam nut. Typically I go back and forth several times till I'm happy. Now the one time I was in a hurry I install the DAP injectors +75HP SAC's and while the valve cover was off I did a quick valve lash. Then grabbed my torque wrench and set it for 20 Foot/pounds and ran the jam nuts. That was a mistake. The one that did turn ever so slightly without holding the set screw end up pulling the adjustment too tight. So it created a lopey / rough idle on my truck when hot. Later when I check the lash again I couldn't get a 0.010 or 0.008 in the intakes on a few cylinders and 0.020 or 0.018 on a few exhaust valves. After re-running and taking my time it fixed the lopey / rough idle.

Good bet I would start there..

Ok. Does the idle seem normal cold and only idle weird when fully warmed up? Then does the idle change if you barely feed throttle and go away?

Like mine is right at 2,100 RPM's the drone starts. Common for 55 MPH in 4th gear (1:1 direct). So I got to speed up or slow down to change the frequency of the exhaust note to stop the drone from occurring. Which is weird all these years of running 3" straight piped and 3" flow through muffled and never had a drone or EGT issue even towing. Now switch up to Diamond Eye 4-inch with muffler with a muffler and now have drone issue. Thankfully It's not common to hit that combination often for me on my long haul lately. I will be getting my RV ready for the road this weekend and hauling south with it.

If you have done all the sensors so now you have to change the bearing on both axles. My last round of ABS/Brake Light was a bad tone ring on the passenger side. One I replaced the bearing left and right side lights went off. Now to see this you need a special live data tool that can show road speed from all three sensors at once. What you'll find is one of the tone wheels is not showing speed till like 30 MPH then it working. When you slow down then the speed drop to zero on the one one tone wheel. Then creates the error. You can have the ABS module rebuilt by Module Master for a total of $130. (Five year warranty!) https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

@5Solas meet up with me in Ontario yesterday. Talking a bit of truck in the parking lot. He's a newbie to the diesel family. So after about an hour of talking shop. I asked if he wanted to take a ride in my beast? "Sure", he said. I played it very cool and drove nice and easy from the parking lot over to the on-ramp of the I84 interstate. Then I let it have it. Poor guy was rather shocked to see that stock looking truck hauling as I hit 75 MPH at the end of the on-ramp merging in. My last little tweak where I'm tunning for summer fuel and my 2 cycle oil now. It got enough power to break tires loose easy now. @Marcus2000monster you might want to focus that energy on the Quadzilla next...

@IBMobile You know lightning never strikes twice in the same spot. Come back to Idaho you'll be safe. Make sure you tell Jennifer that too. Then saving the day with IBMobile... New Injection pump from DAP...

40 Amp fuse covers the power lead and the running lights. I will admit who ever trailer they better check it out. Like on my BigTex when the 40 Amp fuse blew I was hauling home my brand new zero turn lawn mower. The runs went out so stop in a passing town picked up a fuse it worked for a little while blew again. Needless to say when I check the wiring in the rear. The center marker plugged itself then shorted to ground. That 40 Amp fuse was strong enough to melt over 6 feet of wiring. I ended up rewiring the entire rear of my BigTex trailer because of the damage.

Funny part for @dripley ... I Remember seeing him join with a Banks tuner. Then as time went I keep trying to convince Dripley to give up the Banks for a Edge Comp. Just as he bails ship from Banks to Edge Comp. I jump ship later from Edge Comp to Quadzilla. Now I'm doing it all over again trying to convince Dripley to drop that smokey Edge Comp for the clean running Quadzilla. I'm sure he would like to just...

Man you need to talk to is @AH64ID he is the website filter guru.

POW! Right there... Covered everything I wanted to say.

First time I would put aside about 3 to 4 hours.

7 x 0.010 is fine. No need for tubes. It no required. DAP injectors come with o-rings for your existing cross over tubes. Then the injectors have brand new o-rings as well.

Same kit is used on that hybrid as your stock HX35W turbo. DAP When you take yours apart you'll see how easy it would be to make a HX35/40. Basically the turbine from your stock HX35 and exhaust stays. Now swap out the 35 compressor wheel and housing for the 40 compressor and housing. There is a bit of machine work needed to make the 40 wheel fit though. You'll see what I mean once you rebuild your turbo.

Means you've got a bad injector more likely.