Mopar1973Man

Not a Cummins but its still a 2nd Gen Dodge Ram... The little V8 Magnum 5.9L that could... tied to a Dynamic Transmission 46RE.

Oh Yeah... You know that infection is in your veins... There is no cure for the Cummins power bug.

Just for crazy thought. Try unplugging the PCM then just key on and engine off run back through the APPS test again and see if the signal is correct.

I had to take the jab at you. I know the power feels awesome when you roll into the throttle and then the turbo starts to spool and the rear of the truck starts to twist up. I always get nasty looks from MoparMom when I hammer down pass 3 vehicles and blasting past the lead car at nearly 90 MPH. I love the rush... Opps... I mean I like the power... Damn, I admit I'm a power junkie I need my fix now and then...

Actually its easier to just remove the center seat from the other two. Just 4 bolts and the entire center seat comes out.

Odd thought... What if the ground line of the MAP sensor and APPS sensor are floating some voltage? It would impact your range of throttle. This might throw off the MAP and APPS signal as well. Remember one thing sensor grounds are NOT body grounds! This brings me back to the passenger battery terminals and good ground over there. I know the APPS sensor is share between the PCM and ECM computers. ECM for the fueling but the PCM for automatic shift functions. If you are feeling really bold...

I don't see little bits of rubber on the rear fenders yet.

Hey! All you need to venture over to the Garage area and post your trucks up too. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/

Thank you. That's rather interesting. Darn power bug infection might come back. UGH!

You might check the CCD bus for issues. The APPS sensor is shared by both ECM and PCM. If the CCD bus is goofy it might dirty all data. Remember the PCM is the primary computer the ECM is secondary.

That should help. There is the rest of the wire maps in the articles.

What error codes are you getting?

Better off watching the live data from the ECM. Ohm values don't mean much. You should see 0 to 100 prevent throttle signal. Rising smoothly. This can be done without driving.

Another hidden behind fan pulley mount.

There is more than 3 more. Typically use a punch and a hammer. Now knock one side in so you can get a hold of the edge and pull it out.

If you get a small notebook and keep it in your console you can keep the fuel and mileage wrote down and then spreadsheet it later to see tends. Here is one of my old ones.

Now do a bit of hand math and see if that is true...

Do the job the right way and pull the VP44 off. I've seen too many attempting to cheat and end up having the gasket leak in the front form shoehorning the tappet cover back in.

It will work but doesn't last long. Got to treat it more often.

Check for the error codes and list the code numbers here and we'll get you lined out with diagnostic stuff. How about fuel pressure is the fuel pressure 14-20 PSI from idle to WOT?

You are going to need to know to deal with the Tork Tek overflow valve. Being those are adjustable you can set the pressure to your injection pump by that overflow valve. Yeah, I'd say 300k miles the stock valve is most likely shot.

Quicker way. Unhook the batteries leave the ignition key ON for 5 minutes. Turn the key OFF. Then hook the batteries back up. Do the APPS relearn. Done in about 7 minutes or about the same time to enjoy a cold beer and BS with a friend.

https://goerend.com/ http://www.firepunk.com/trans.php https://dynamictransparts.com/index.php There is 3 now to think about. Maybe some should talk to Firepunk to jumping on the site too. I'd be glad to add him to the vendor list.

Like myself, I've got LibreOffice and it doesn't work either. Microsoft only tuner program. Everyone here knows how much I dislike Microsoft products.

There was a gent here that had some sort of jacket hose that had steel braid in the jacket really stiff stuff kind of like a hydraulic hose.