Mopar1973Man

You would be... Trust me after running Quadzilla untapped for 1 year (waiting for the VP44 warranty to die) then hooking up the wire tap is night and day difference. Like my maximum boost pressure, just CANBus is 28-30 PSI. Wiretapped is now 45 PSI. WAY more fuel than any CANBus tuner can produce. Which I've got a boost controller coming from China and be here on Friday. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/361900309685 Then once I gain control of the wastegate better I'm going to rebuild my CANBus fuel table to keep from hitting the EGT limits. Like @Me78569 mention in another post you should be able to control your fuel table enough to prevent needing backdown limits. Once I do that I should be able to hold it to the floor and not have to worry about EGT.

Yes. Actually, this when you break out with a winter front and keep the cold air off the intercooler so to allow some of the turbo heat to make it to the intake. You don't want ro lower the IAT but to raise it. Again optimal is 100-140*F for MPG purpose. As for the timing aspect use the MPG fooler. That will retard timing. If you had a Quadzilla you can just program your timing.

If the IAT temperature is below 80*F the ECM can kick in up to 3-4* of advancement of timing which typically is too much. Once you reach about 90 to 140*F the optimal MPG starts to shine. Remember the diesel needs the cylinder warmth to cause the fuel atomized spray to vaporize and go bang in a timely. If the air is too cold then the ignition occurs later (retarded). So this where Dodge's lab tech came up with this idea. Problem though is that the only thing the ECM can't measure is CETANE so if your local fuel is still high cetane and the timing is racked up then your over advancing. This why my winter tune I was RETARDING about 1.5* below stock. Still able to reach 20 MPG in near zero weather.

I'm still running factory styled alternators just unhooked the grid heaters and the problem remains gone for the time. So this points to the fact that grid heaters cause the alternator diodes to fail which in turn is the AC noise.

Welcome to the site! You might want to put your truck information in the signature where you put "test" at.

I would keep your pair of ECM and PCM. If the other donor truck is a matching truck with same options then I would take the ECM and PCM for spares.

Possible. All I can say is try again. Double check the alternator and be sure.

About right. Remember cold air will cause the ECM to over advance timing in the winter hence the MPG mode on my switch. The only other way is I get that Quadzilla and gain full control of the timing. This is why I always laugh about the cold air intake.

You might want to check that out and see if the harness is damaged or rubbing through. I know the fuel solenoid has it own fusible link but I've seen wire damage from things getting hot just before it burns through. Look closely for melted areas possibly.

Question. Where did you buy the cam sensor at?

Which is true. But if you ask @Dynamic he'll say monitor the pan temperature. Like even in my case on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I didn't have the bung at the time of the rebuild or I would of had Jon put it in for me. So when I got the gauge I used ISSPro's clamp on sensor setup for the hot line for now. I want to take the time and have the bung put in the rear of the transmission pan where Jon marked it for me. It will read the very same temperature that the PCM reports. Remember the stock transmission temperature sensor is part of the governor pressure sensor which is once again inside the pan.

Maybe... Maybe not. Just your driving style and road speed will have a huge impact in if you gain one day or lose big time. Even with my old stock injectors I could squeak out 17-19 MPG even though they only popping at about 240-260 Bar. Not optimal but still capable of getting OK MPG numbers if I really tired. Now if I horsed around or was aggressive driving that number would fall quickly.

I guess I'll have to check with NAPA when I head back down to Ontario, OR on Tuesday.

Agreed most like to double stack filters or at least do good 3-micron filter.

What kind of hose did you use for the wastegate controller? Looks like simple fuel hose.

The best person I know that has that answer is @jlbayes or @TFaoro these two should be able to set you up with the timing for that p-pump 24V.

Actually that's your good buddy @IBMobile that always throwing you in the stew pot.

Come back soon and post up your truck in our Garage. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/ We'll discuss options and ideas for your truck.

Ouch. That was my worry when I started losing my 46RE in the 1996 Dodge. Jon @Dynamic settled my worries and showed me a bunch of stuff on how to rebuild the transmission and how to even test the functions using air pressure. Sad to hear of shops still doing this to people building underrate and charging a premium for the work.

You in the accumulator. Not good. There are issues where some sensor actual extend inward to much and can interfere with the piston. The fluid isn't moving much back there so the temperature reading is way off.

You are ahead of the game! Your on the right track I wouldn't worry then. You've covered all the important bases.

I'm going to assume you are talking about the P1689 code. There is a few things that can cause that code. Possible Causes Wiring & Connectors Fuel Injection Pump Relay Output Circuit Open Ground Circuit Open Or High Resistance Datalink (+) Circuit Open Datalink (+) Circuit Shorted To Ground Datalink (-) Open Datalink (-) Shorted To Ground ECM

That doesn't sound right. You might talk to @Dynamic about why the transmission temperature is so high. The only time I see temps like that is when I'm stuck in stop and go traffic on 100*F day.

Actually, the truth is BlueChip states on his website you can produce all the HP you want with a mere 5 PSI of fuel pressure. Now, this points out that the VP44 power performance will not degrade with lack of fuel pressure. Now I tell you that you are shortening the lifespan of the VP44 pump if the fuel pressure dips below 14 PSI. At this point, the overflow valve closes and there is no return flow of fuel to the tank. Now you based strictly on the consumption flow for cooling and lubing. The most I've recorded for consumed fuel rate is about 25 to 27 GPH burned on a WOT stand.

Nice job. You've got a skill for welding that for sure to be able to weld that piece back in like that. I'll keep you in mind when I get ready to squirt paint on the 1996 Dodge Ram of mine.