Mopar1973Man

I guess you won't say, "Here hold my beer and watch this chit!" Leaves you without a truck for quite awhile and simple things like seals are tough to get.

And a bad alternator. Ditch the ATS noise filter return the electrical back to stock. Most likely replace the alternator but have it tested for AC ripple. Then you'll want to do this ground mod.

I've had a Robin nest outside my bedroom window for several weeks. Momma hasn't been bothered by my yard work or anything. She'll normally fly off and watch from a distance. In the begining she would go nuts if I went near the nest. Now she just watches from a distance. Here is what's in the nest... Two newborn Robin's. Thankful for the high power zoom I could keep my distance and still zoom in good and see what's in the nest.

Did the trailer brake controller do the trick or is it still turning on the brake lights?

Here is a good pair of wire strippers. I've got these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Katapult-Wire-Stripper-and-Cutter-for-8-20-AWG-Solid-and-10-22-AWG-Stranded-Wire-11063W/204660476 Here is excellent crimping tool. I might have to buy these much better than my old school junk. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pro-sKit-Ratcheted-Crimper-for-Open-Barrel-Terminals-300-005/206369459

No. That's a sign of the hydrobooster leaking power steering fluid into the cab. This is most likely caused from lack of power steering fluid flushing and the oil is contaminated and broke down so the seals take a beating. Power steering fluid should be changed every 30k miles.

Trailer brake controller? Not sure if you got one. Possible the control back feeding the brake light leads.

Take notice of there are 3 fuses. (Fuse 4, 5, 10 in the Cab) It can be the muti-function switch or brake light switch. Being the Hazard switch will use the same filament as the brake like switch and if the flash relay is shot then the light just stay on. (Fuse 4 and 10) Brake lights is Fuse 5.

Basically what @Me78569 is getting at for building fuel curves. This is how you would break it down into smaller chunks and clean up each piece of the fuel map. Start with level 1 set your valet mode power till you get the smoke tuned out. Now that is going to be your start power %. Now step up to Level 2 and now build your curve till you make your starting point to 100% fuel clean. If you need to clean up more push your 100% point higher in the boost range. Now Step up to level 3 and build from the 100% to the max you can handle without smoking heavy for the rest of the span. Now step up to level 4 or higher and build your wiretap level. With as big as your injectors are I really wonder if wiretap will be even needed.

Might talk to @IBMobile he's down there in the California area. I think also @KATOOM is in California. Might ask these guys if they can help.

Ok. PCM is the master computer ECM is the secondary computer PCM uses ECM and ABS. Cruise control uses ABS signal. (Either pass to the ECM or vacuum motor) Security feature PCM gets do not start signal and sends to the ECM. Cluster requires ECM, PCM, and ABS. Cluster gets the coolant temperature oil pressure, and the tach from the ECM. Cluster gets the fuel level and the voltage from the PCM Cluster gets the speed from the ABS. ECM requires PCM and ABS module. ABS control the grid heater canceling. Radio requires Central Timer (Steering wheel controls). Central Timer Requires PCM (security feature). Overhead console requires PCM. All p-pumping the engine does is remove the VP44. You still need the ECM for the cluster to display gauge functions. Remove the PCM the whole system dies and the truck won't function. This why the two codes tend to prevent function of the truck typically.

Then use level 2 to build your defuel range.

I'll tell you why he's gun shy to changing the VP44. Last time I did the VP44 in his other truck was was quick to ask, "Where does this bolt go?" - CLANK! and it disappeared. After hunting for about 15-30 minutes we found it in the bottom of the intercooler. I've got no problem doing the VP44 @JAG1 knows my average speed is half of the labor book. Not to mention the A/C problem he's been nagging me about for months since last summer if I don't do it JAG1 will be beating with the stick next. You always welcome for a wrench party here. It's always the old and slow ones that know what they're doing. (Sign of great wisdom).

No way to remove the PCM. Its the master computer. Without it the rest of the truck fails. The only thing p-pump does is remove the VP44 you still need the ECM.

Ill bet money on the sensor.

Possible pilot bearing if the rest are fine.

That's because of the extra rotational mass of the 2 friction disks to slow down. One of the few reasons I won't do a dual disc.

Look at it this way. The Stock ECM tune can use the full range of the VP44 timing already. It's just when does it occur. All we are doing is dictating when and where the timing occurs. So the VP44 is capable of 30 degrees of timing and stock can touchh the 30 degrees but I'm going to assume its way up the RPM range. I'm more focused on the timing where I do the most driving, So the 1,500 and 2,000 RPM band is where I spend the most time. So those two ranges are the most important to me. Now as for the 2,500 and 3,000 I look at those for passing power but I might use those ranges only 1% of the time. Give you a feel. (7 x 0.0085) Injectors... No studs, HX35/40 hybrid 60/60/12... 18, 21, 24, 27, 27 (Timing max) Max load offset 3* Low PSI Timing reduct 5* Timing reduct Scaling 50% Light Throttle Timing Adv 3* Light Throttle Load 20%

Back when I had both the 1973 Dodge Charger under the tree I stuck mothballs in the Dodge Charger the mice would pack them around the car. So instead of being in the cup where I had mothballs in I'd find them all over the car then. I tried the dryer sheet idea too and watch how mice used the sheets for bedding. Even in the RV I tried again. Mice walked right past the mothballs wouldn't phase them. Drier sheets again they dragged them off and made nest out of them. Two things I found that keeps mice out is noise and lack of entry. Even mice need to have sleep so if there constant loud, obnoxious noise all the time they will not build home there. The other then is not to have shelter or warmth. Lot of ranchers up here leave the hood open then vents the heat out quickly and doesn't provide shelter for the mice.

Thank you. Information confirmed.

Ok another way to look at it. Set the Quadzilla for Level 0 and monitor your timing. Now build a timing setup which is plus 1 or plus 2 over stock. Not exactly a good way to look it being stock has a nasty retard hole in the middle of the map. I'd rather base it off engine load and EGT then you know you got efficiency on you side.

Not the way to look at it. It more what do you want for a target timing value during cruise? This should be based more on engine load and EGTs. As you get closer to optimal timing the EGT and engine load will fall. The amount to give is more on the experiment and see side.

Exactly. More defuel you have in you cruise realm the more TPS is required creating extra pull on TV cable which is holding gears longer.

I'm going to say clutch/transmission install issues. If the pilot bearing is dragging on the input shaft it could create this issue. I've had it myself after replacing my clutch and being careful about the alignment of the transmission I've never had the issue again. Being the clutch is pushed in and the input is still spinning with the crank if the bearing is binding up then shift quality is an issue.

Starter most likely. I've seen where one brush fails and the starter is now on half power and struggles to twist. Contacts typically just don't deliver power yeah it does happen that it could cause poor cranking but rare. Another is cables I've seen some battery cable that look like junk and people do weird things to gain a better connection.