Mopar1973Man

Oops! I guess I made a typo... 461 and a 046 Stihl's

4 years ago. From that shop. I've also bought a Stihl Weed wacker and my Raptor Zero Turn lawn mower from them as well.

Ash. Metal in oils. Typically this is caused by ATF, Waste Engine Oil, etc. ATF contains things like anti-scorching compounds, friction modifiers and other soft metals like zinc added. Waste engine oil is the same way with zinc and other soft metals added and compounds to extend the life of engine oil. Now when you burn this the metals come out as ah as seem above. This why the 2 cycle oil theory was created to resolve these issues of ash. Now back in the 1970 ATF didn't have all these compounds and same with engine oil.

Timbo's APPS... All mechanical no electronics. Stock APPS... (IVS is all electronic) Wells APPS (magnetic but still electronic for both TPS and IVS signals)

Where I bought my saw at Ontario, OR... http://wilkinspowersports.com/

So you are going to park your truck? Detail my truck would be a huge waste of money. It takes me less than 13 hours to look like a work truck all over again. I go through and clean my truck up... Vacuum, wash, wax and clean all the glass... One trip down to Ontario, OR and back it looks like I've never done a darn thing. Carpet wise I'll give you a secret. I've done this on the 1996 Dodge. I pull the seats out and some of the trim up. Then removed the carpet and hung it over the railing. Now take a 30* or 40* power wash nozzle and crank up the power washer. All the crude washes out of the carpet and being the carpet is rubber back you can inspect the floor under the carpet. Now the carpet will dry in a few hours and look factory new all over again. Just install. As for dash the easiest way is to pull the dash bezel on the driver side and wash the plastic with a garden hose and soap. Now the passenger side if you are careful you can pry the vents from the dash and wash those and clean the vent holes good. Before installing again you might lube the plastics louvers. Headliner I've found a way with simple green, shop vacuum, and a silicone dog hair brush. Basically shot any spots with a spray mixture of simple green and water. now using the shop vacuum to draw the water back out. DO NOT rub the vacuum on the headliner. Just place and draw the cleaner and dirt back out. DO NOT leave simple green mixture too long the headliner is like a cardboard behind it. When done and your spots are dry now using the silicone brush and lightly comb the nap on the headliner to make it look nice again. So the rest you just wash down with soap, water, and a rag. Not hard...

Remember turbos are dependent on fuel. If there is no fuel burning there is no boost building. As long as the turbo has no play in the shaft bearings (in and out like old school headlight switch) and not making contact with the housing there is nothing wrong with the turbo. Boost or drive pressure leaks are possible. So now back to fuel. If the timing is overly advanced it can reduce boost pressure. The funny part is my last VP44 last 243k miles and failed this way. The timing piston was stuck FULL ADVANCEMENT and would build any boost and power was very low with the nasty sound knock. To spool a turbo you need fuel to be burned and the expanding exhaust gases push past the turbine to spin the turbo to make boost. Like I'm learning with the Quadzilla certain amount of retarding timing is needed to get the turbo spooled up then advance the timing to keep the fuel burning in the cylinder making more power.

Really not that bad. Actually, it's pretty good. Now, this is injector ash.

I'm running twins. My 20-year-old Stihl 046 and then my rather new Stihl 462. Basically the same saw just age difference the newer saw is supposed to be the same size as the 046 but with all the EPA design into the engine, it's not quite the same power. Stihl, in all, it spins that chain and cuts logs into firewood just the same.

That was one of the things I wanted to do was source out the parts for doing alternator rebuild kits for the website. One of the many things no longer sold in a normal part store.

Don't do it. We've got the Timbo's APPS right here in the store. It a true electronics free APPS sensor totally mechanical.

I can do that exact thing using the Quadzilla the export the data to spreadsheet and loaded into graph form.

Smotth TPS signal. It should never jump to 0 or 100 randomly. It should rise smoothly to the weight of your right foot. So if you cruising you should not see it jump from 25% to 75%.

You got to ask for a Live Data Tool. I would suggest like OBDLink LX or MX...

Relocated to my other house... My portable office... Ill Keep the website rolling.

Now do a WOT run on the highway to find your low pressure.

Just checked local Napa has Valvoline 50 SAE for about 12 a quart. Price went up.

You could if you install the fuel pressure sensor.

Works out to about 10 to 11 dollars a quart for what I bought and where. As for Valvoline I can do cheaper yet still 50 SAE GL-4 fluid.

Just crossing 80k on the fluid. No issues to report. The fluid is now getting darker in color more of an engine oil brownish tint. Still no issues shifting gears. No syncro problems to report. Working great in winter cold down to -40*F to summer heat over 100*F. I've got just about 3 years on the transmission. I can with confidence say... Mobil 50 SAE is safe for NV4500 use and will not cause any harm or shifting issues!

I was going to ask the same question...

Impossible. The engine would have to turn to get the valves to open and close to allow flow to the tail pipe. Typically we cap the turbo off add pressure and look for intake plumbing leaks. Anywhere the air can go you check for leaks. From the mouth of the turbo follow the tubing and check every joint. then to the intake on the engine checking gaskets and even o-rings of the 2 sensors (IAT and MAP sensors).

Ask DAP about there new turbo. They have one like my Hybrid 35/40.

Not suppose to flow through. You suppose to pressurized the system and look for leaks.

Being a 3rd Gen box is a Ford Steering box and 2nd Gen is a Sagnaw box I really doubt it. Not to mention the fluid requirements for the 3rd gen is ATF and 2nd Gen is Power steering fluid. You can't cross them with the wrong fluid. You would have to convert everything over to 3rd Gen (Pump, Hydro booster and Steering box) to resolve the fluid issue. Personally not worth it.