Mopar1973Man

Need to do either contact kit or brush kit in the starter. Properly charged A/C shouldn't cycle on a hot day. As for the 12V lift pump. http://www.torkteknology.com/technical-article-1-cummins-lift-pump/

There is so much stuff we could open up with that comment snip. Like the ground wire mod. Timbo's Apps. So many other modifications that should be done to these trucks to make them bulletproof and last forever.

Bosch alternator... http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/bo13881/ Denso alternator... http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/dpi/

Personally, I would just buy some air brake line and some rubber vacuum hose and make you own for much less and with better materials than factory.

We sell the Denso alternator diodes... This will give you a clue. Bosch diodes are soldered in.

Image is long gone. I don't even remember 8 years ago what it was a photo of... (CRS moment...)

Kind of like me and all my road travel, I've got two common tell-tales of goofy people. Any make of vehicle but red in color. Ford vehicles. The red vehicles typical drive super slow. I might be slow but come on these people are so slow it's pathetic. Now the Ford vehicle typically they are bit older and the owner drives super slow or pass you then slow down to crawl for no reason.

I am a freak don't you know...

Tough call... It might be a PITA but it might come down to that pulling each hinge one at a time and rebuilding.

Might be too much spring strength and the boost can't overcome the spring. You are hooked up correctly in on the red side and out in the blue side to the wastegate. Basically, the pressure has to overcome the spring and check ball to apply pressure to the wastegate. The hole is there to bleed off pressure after the pressure drop below your setting. I've got mine nearly all the way lose and the boost just barely hitting 40 PSI.

I've done a few older trucks by supporting the door and doing them on the truck. The problem is the hinge has to be separated so you can change the bushings. So this is not a single man job being these trucks have electrical in thee doors. The ones I did back in the 70's at most had just a speaker wire just chop that bad boy off and pull the door pins lift the door off. Our trucks are whole different story.

Stock HX35W turbo, +50 HP injectors, Edge Comp (5x3), Straight piped 3" exhaust. So far with the Quadzilla I've hit 22 MPG but the weather is still very cold in the morning hours which hurts the MPG's. Optimally 70-90*F weather is best and hitting at least 100*F IAT right off.

Yeah that's an 8 year old post. Might help to start a new post.

All winter long I really didn't do much to the truck but now spring come everything ignored from cold wet weather now is biting me now. Can't cry when I'm passing 341k and rolling.

Shortly after this my driver side door lower hinge spit the bottom bushing out. Crap. Time to get a door bushing kit.

Need to update you Quadzilla to the V2 series and solve the smoke issue.

...and smoking them out does? Sorry, I don't see your logic. If I'm already ahead of the foolish driver just stay there all your problems are literally behind you now. Trust me I'm on the road quite a bit these days and I can spot the idiot drivers quick and just use the wiretap I can overtake them and leave the problem drivers behind me. I driving 250 miles 3 days a week minimum (750 miles a week). I've not found a good reason to smoke anyone out other than it brings down more EPA laws on the diesel community. Now looking forward to 4th gens with all the junk that is for EPA equipment, not fun working on.

Man, I'm glad those days are behind me. Still roughly hitting 21-22 MPG... (735 to 770 miles to a tank) Full mark by ~100 miles. 3/4 mark by ~225 miles. 1/2 mark by ~350 miles. Typically filling back up by this point. Rare for me to run to the bottom of the tank. Too far between towns and most up here are getting upward of $3.409 and $3.509 per gallon for diesel.

Always love when guys talk manuls transmission they argue about how 6 speeds are needed because of the number of gears and application of torque. Then we get to automatics with mere 4 gears where the top two gears are the basically same ratio as the top two gear of the manuals. Then you have only two lower gear where the ratios are way different. Then you mix up torque converter stall RPM's and possibly oversized tires on top of 3.55 gear you get a soup pot full of issues. I see @Youngblood24v is at least stock tire size. I've got to ask how much time are you spending unlocked on the torque converter? Not an accurate temperature. There is no flowing ATF fluid there. Most likely not typically that temperature is lower. The hot line leaving the transmission to the cooler is typically the hottest. Kind of like measuring coolant temperature at the driver side radiator tank which will be close to the 190-195* but now open the radiator cap and measure the coolant on the passenger side it like 110-130*F at the most. Same thing is true for the transmission the pan will be the coolest spot after the cooler. Currently, my 46RE (Dynamic Transmission) in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has a clamp on Trans Temp probe on the hot line leaving the transmission. Yeah, I need to buy a bung and install the probe in the pan. So far my hottest temp I've ever seen is 190*F in downtown Boise traffic stop and go on about 110*F summer. Again measured at the hot line leaving the transmission.

All I can say is contact the ECM rebuilder and let them know the VP44 has been damaged by there rebuilt ECM. You'll need to get a replacement VP44 and ECM re-tested.

Holy Cow dude this is taking forever to build one truck.

What needs to happen is do the BlueChiop hot wire test. This will power up the VP44 as a stand-alone module. The truck should start and idle without a ECM.

Simple you can replace the sender on the fuel pickup in the tank to get accuracy back. As for the loss of fuel pressure someone cut the straw too short. There should only be the thickness of a quarter (coin) between the tip of the straw and the bottom of an empty tank. I've seen so many people screw up cut them diagonal or nearly an inch from the bottom. As you can see I've lightly notch my straw and it only the thickness of a quarter between the tip of the draw straw and the bottom.

Currently, there is a issue with the math on getting speed from the tire size and gears. I wished iQuad had an option to just pass the stock signal along. Like my truck, the odometer and the speedometer are right on the mark and should show 55 MPH when I'm traveling 55 MPH but it shows 57-58 MPH.

I don't know why it can't be averaged out. Just need to divide total miles by the Trip gallons and you have AVG MPG for the tank. I've got to do it in my head right now and the quick way is for every gallon I expect 20 miles. So every 20 miles I check the gallons and see if its less than dividing then I know I'm ahead of the 20 MPG mark. The only thing this is missing is an odometer that's all.