Mopar1973Man

Got back to my other home after the long weekend. Come to find that the trailer was knocked off it tongue blocks. Looking more found the passenger side wheel chock was knocked out. When it fell off the tongue blocks it landed on the driver side stabilizer jack in the front and bent the top mount. Talking to the land owner and he said the gust was upwards of 50 to 60 MPH. He figured as long as the trailer was still standing was a good thing. I was more worried about the fridge but it was still cold and freezer was still frozen. So here I sit and enjoy my A/C in the RV. No harm done!

I doubt ill ever buy a new RV for the same reasons here. My Dad bought the 1976 Dodge Jamboree Class C motor home brand new. I had a bag that was full of all the work orders go back and forth to the dealer with issues. My current Jayco I bought used 10 years old and owned it now for 8 years. Minor issues but still towing it down the highway.

Actually a crap ton of Oxidizer.

Well as for removal there is a air hammer bit that is like cup socket that fit over the bolt head. Basically loosen the bolts, use you air hammer to drive the bearing out. Another way is to use a steel rod. Take one person to turn the steering wheel and a second person to hold the rod. Not very safe but can be done. As for the hub I think you have to drive the studs out to get the rotor off.

Might ask @Dynamic about the shutter its possibly transmission. Again a educated direction.

Possible ECM. There is a state called limited pedal. What you'll see is the TPS is still commanding fuel but the ECM commanding the VP44 even less. You can see this in engine load. Engine load is equal to commanded fuel by the ECM. So do the log again and add engine load with TPS so you can see both.

Well I can tell you it's not the APPS sensor if it climbs smoothly. Even the graph you post doesn't drop to zero. For there to be lack off power you need to drop to zero.

You not running a lift 9n your truck I'm going to assume the u joint angles are correct. The only u joint that could get weird is the one right at the pinion with axle wrap it might get some bind. Educated guess.

Use what you read here and what you find in your research to make an educated choice.

Yeah tour going to need a flex oil drain line. That's only a band aid for now.

That's doesn't look good. Wastegate rod rubbing the oil return (I think that what I'm looking at).

I was the same way years ago doing my first VP44 replacement. Now I've done so many that it doesn't even phase me and I can just about grab every tool I need before starting. My fast R&R time was in a hay field in a rainstorm I was completed and driving back to the owner's house in a little over 1.5 hours. Trust me you don't want to drop anything or have to crawl out from the tarp over the hood. Makes a good tent and stay dry.

I think the idea of replacement is coming... (Crossing my fingers for you!)

Ummm... I don't think that will work. Trust me the Morimoto HID headlights are awesome the light up way more. You'll only need the standard two bulbs not four bulbs. I'm running the Morimoto D2S HID's. Several other members here are running the Morimoto Mini H1 HID's. I'll admit the D2S are a larger lens and cast more light out on the highway.

edited your post make the link clickable...

There is a lot of history of what happened with Quadzilla. It a nutshell Jacob from DAP bought Quadzilla and fired it back up and Spencer runs the show for Quadzilla now and Me78569 is the software guru behind the scenes that made the Quadzilla what it is today.

I totally agree... I left California back in 1989. Never looked back. As you can see there is a wide range of people and answers provided. All I can say is make a pick for whatever system you like and do the install. While doing the install make sure to get all the parts you need and do it right the first time. It really does suck to have to do a job twice or drop a tank twice.

Sorry, it looks like they are photobucket pictures. Nothing I can do about that. I can tell you that after having a set of Sport Headlights and modified with the relays didn't do much good. Beam pattern was still narrow and not very good. Basically, you need 4 relays, 2 fuses. Kind of hard to explain in text but one relay for low beam and one relay for high beam. The 85 and 86 pins go between hi beam and common or lo beam and common. The 30 has +12V power and 87 goes to the bulb. The common pin of the bulb goes to ground. Tell you the truth you might look into this... These are MUCH brighter and light up more area...

I've bought through RockAuto in the past for A/C parts. Now I tend to stick with NAPA at least if there is a part mix up it much easier to drive to the local store than attempting to box it all back up and get it shipped in the mail. Wait for it... Then Wait some more for the new part to come. This just makes a simple A/C job into 1-week to 2-week project which has happened in the past doing online parts. Trying to get parts too cheap you might run into other issues. I've had in the past where the part was right but the o-rings were wrong. The part fit fine but ended up removing again and replacing all the o-rings because the o-rings were just too small in diameter.

Copy Cat... Stainless Steel rockers... Your paint job looks 100 times better than mine with all the little rock chips in it.

Sure... Give me a call...

Check your personal notifications and see if it's turned on. Anytime I'm around today, gone tomorrow...

Ok... So that 310,685 miles. I'm about to turn 345k miles which is about 555,223 km... Time to catch up. These engines are good for at least 1,609,344 km (1 million miles). I'm also a towing guy too. I've got a utility trailer I haul firewood with and then my 31 foot Jayco RV. Which now is set up as a second home. I travel about 60k miles per year (96,560 km). The best suggestion I've got since we both work these truck hard. Is to get on a creeper and roll from front to rear with a flashlight or drop light and inspect everything you can. Anything that is out of place or showing damage its time to take the time and repair it.

I would look at having the spring re-arched, just replace the blocks from a wrecking yard. Have a machine shop make a new set of u-bolts for you. That spring in the picture looks deformed and not arched right anymore.

I've had one that continued to roll out of the keyway and stand up. Superglue and no longer an issue. It slid right on in and like its suppose too.