Mopar1973Man

Sure won't be a buddy after bringing it back to him like that. Going up is one thing I wonder what it was like when he came back down that slope again. How much more damage did he take on? Here is another video full of goofy people.

Just add a bit more retard to the 1,500 RPM area and allow the engine to build boost for you.

The alarm is part of the central timer under the dash. So if you disconnect the central timer the alarm should stop. The only problem is the wipers will too. The wiper delay function is based in the central timer.

Me personally, I would have avoided the Powerstop kit. The ceramic brake pads will eat the rotors before eating the pads. When I look at the pad life on my own truck at 180k miles for my first set. My second set of brake pads are going to most likely exceed 200k miles on they are rock bottom economy pads. I'm still running OEM rotors which have been turned once took very little to straighten back to true again. Trust me after see what ceramic brakes do you are not going to be happy replacing rotors being you have to press stud out every time. Everyone says it my exhaust brake that does this. Not true. 171k miles on my 1996 Dodge 1500 with a V8 5.9L gas engine no exhaust brake there either. I finally did my first brake job on only the front axle last year. Again I used the bottom of the barrel economy pads so the rotors don't get chewed up.

No sealant used. It's more or less a one-time crush gasket.

Why not upgrade to an AirDog or FASS fuel system. Then you deal with all the 6mm ID restrictive fuel system with 1/2 inch plumbing, Adding in 3-micron fuel filters basically double stacking filter with your stock 10-micron filter. Then you get the fuel pump relay as well.

Go buy a Ford truck and beat it up. Keep the Dodge at home...

Only thing I can suggest is ohm test the ECM harness out to each point. Then ohm test each wire to ground.

There is some truth there... Back in the day tuners were basic canned tunes and did not allow for fuel and timing management. So as your injectors changed there was very limited control of the fuel to prevent excessive smoke and timing was based on stock injector set up. When you increased injector size you typically need to add more timing to get the fuel to light off properly. Again back 10 years ago this wasn't possible. Like myself I've just kicked off my MPG tune and already reached 22.34 MPG last tank. I'm going to attempt to beat my old high mark of 27.2 MPG. With HX35/40 hybrid, 7 x 0.0085 injectors and Quadzilla. My old high mark was done with Edge Comp (5x3), +50 HP injectors and Stock HX35W turbo.

We've got a download area full of tunes and then the Quadzilla Forum where you can hook up with Spencer @Quadzilla Power . The only tune we will NOT provide is a SMOKE tune. I'll also inform you a smoke tune proves one thing you don't know how to tune nor make real power. You'll find out from everyone here that a SMOKE TUNE produces less power, less efficient, and waste fuel. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/ https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

Like myself, I cleared 338k miles on the OEM tierod ends. Done another set of NAPA OEM styled tierod end most likely go to 600k miles before I do it again. Nothing to gain for me unless you can prove that heavy duty tierods will go more than 300k miles. Also still continues to prove anyone with oversized tires are just killing their front suspension.

Sounds like a possible ground issue. The passenger side terminal is the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44. Sounds like its bleeding over another circuit to make up for weak connections. You might check all your PDC fuse. The large square ones you need to test with an ohm meter just because the don't look blown out it could be cracked. Also remember there is +12V BATT lead to both ECM and PCM then a +12 KEY HOT to both to trigger them both on. So start back with your basics check for good grounds at the device socket and power as well.

Or you can be like me and not even bother because the exhaust manifold never cracked and I'm at 341k miles and rolling yet.

Just an under valved Cummins. You can do it.

SO vs HO injector nozzle if I remember right there is a very small nozzle size difference. Less than 1 thousandths of a inch between the two. Again nothing to jump up and down about. Tidbit. HotRod VP44 is the fact of mixing SO and HO pump parts tougher. Your totally gains is +21 HP typically and that HO advanced timing and like I will no advise using a tuner with timing against Hot Rod pumps. I've ran across on case where in the dead of winter it was creating a no start issue because of the excessive timing. (Hot Rod Pump plus tuner).

No way to measure the threads and get the same setting. Who knows if the springs have the same tension?

Couple of WOT runs watching you max boost adjust accordingly. If you can hit your mark and you got a divided exhaust housing you might have to drill a hole through the divider so the wastegate can control better. On divided housing its possibly to exceed your set boost driving the one side.

Not bad for the price...

You could just unplug it for a test drive. The gauge will not work but it'll prove the short idea.

Fuel log... 340955 - 340666 = 289 ÷ 12.935 = 22.34 MPG. Price: 3.299 I'm happy to report the MPG display is very close to correct about 0.2 gallons off. This is 0.98 MPG gain over last tank. Only change to the tune is dropped 1 degree of cruise timing. Catch me if you can...

OMG... It finally showed up today. Ill open the package later.

The headlight nut/clip you remove the wiring first then spin the nut/clip to release. Now pull the bulb out and separate. As for headlight wiring that should be a normal headlight circuit.

3.54 gears. Like I thought. So either ditch the tires and wheel or find a set of 4.10 gears for both axles.

What gear ratio? 3.55 or 4.10? Automatic or Manual (5 or 6 speed)? These make a difference in your tuning too. Because final ratio to the ground will be what you are working against. Optimally you want 3.55 to 3.73 ratio to the ground. Roughly speaking your final ratio to the ground is 3.38:1 with 3.55 in the axle... Like I said tires and gears impact the final ratio.

SO = 235 HP / 460 TQ (16.3:1 Compression) HO = 245 HP / 505 TQ (17.0:1 Compression) Not like its a whole lot of difference.