Mopar1973Man

Give us some more information on the truck. Your tune even for a stock truck is rather over fueled. Max pump stretch need to come down. I'm only using 1200 to 1600 with 75 HP injectors. Min pump tap needs to come down. Way too much fuel typically most of us leave it at zero. Boost scaling should be moved up to 30 to 40 PSI range. Light throttle timing is too much. Need to back down to 2 degrees. Timing reduct scaling should be 100%. With your current setting there is no reduction of timing and most likely over advancing. You might get better luck of using someone tune off the site. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

That's because your final ratio to the ground is roughly 3.19:1 which is way too tall of a gear ratio.

Don't sweat it all I've got is Linux. What you need to do is download a copy of VirtualBox and then set up a copy of Windows on a virtual machine. Then you can flash the update to the Quadzilla. I use the same setup myself to update my Quadzilla. I don't own a Windows computer at all. https://www.virtualbox.org/ Take notice my Ubuntu 16.04 is the main OS system. Then running Windows 7 in a box. Tidbit... Smarty Touch or Smarty UDC can't run on VirtualBox and must be ran on a true Windows PC.

Where did this come from? Never heard of such. Different story and usage. For most common joes like ourselves, 2 cycle oil doesn't have any negative effects. I've pushed 243k miles out a VP44 injection pump from using 2 cycle oil. Of course proper ratio for the application. 24V VP44 can run 128:1 ratio. CR Stock trucks need to be down to 200:1 ratio. With 3 CP3 pumps that is an entirely different story.

Basically, if the P1693 is reported from the ECM that means there are codes in the PCM. If the P1693 is reported from the PCM than means there are more codes in the ECM. If reporting from both PCM and ECM then both modules at pointing at each other to having more codes. That's all it means nothing more.

You'll want to talk to @jlbayes he's one of the power gurus here.

I'm going to break my old high mark of 27.2 MPG with a 8,000-pound truck. Done it once I'll do it again. So don't give up. I'm going to at least reach for my old mid 20's like back in the days of Edge Comp and +50 HP Vulcan Performance Injectors. If I can reach the mid 20's then I know I can break my record. I've got work to do to my truck to do it. Right now there is minor issues like parking brake cable rusted up and possibly dragging brake shoes. Valve Lash. There is a few other things I'll look into.

Take note @Youngblood24v your running 7 x 0.010 injectors vs my 7 x 0.0085 injectors so you'll need to be below 15% to reach 21 MPG. Bigger the nozzles the lower in the engine load percentage you need to be. Just to show how this works... Engine Load = Quadzilla CANBus Fuel / 4,095 So if you have CANBus Fuel of 2,000 on the Quadzilla that is equal 48.8% Engine Load. If you want MPG you need to address all rolling resistance loads, drag, excessive weight, etc. Either way you need Engine Load numbers down as low as possible to gain MPG's. Basically as your tuning if any adjustment changes the engine load higher you are going the wrong direction. Timing is a tough one to call out. Like on my truck knowing my injectors are set for 305 bar and have over 60k miles on them that means they are most likely lower. This means the injectors are firing sooner. I'm using @Me78569 19 degree rule at the 2,000k mark and figuring that my injectors are popping a bit early and not atomizing as well. Hence why I'm set the timing for 18.5 at 2,000 RPMs because of possible wear. Either way I make adjustments and check my engine load value on flat ground cruise set. Look for change of the engine load value if its going up your going the wrong way.

What size tires are you running?

Engine Load = Amount of fuel being injected including the injector size. So if you cruising at 40-50% engine load you flowing 50% of capable fuel through those bigger nozzles just means even more fuel burned. If you want MPG numbers you need your engine load as LOW as possible. For me to tip 21 MPG I need to say below 20% engine load. This will give a clue.

PM me I'll get your account merged together and fix the other one for you. That's a tough problem. Even with stock sized tires and 3.55 gears your still twisting 2,300 or so at 80 MPH. No matter what you do it going to be a pig at those speeds. You would need to get back below 2,000 RPM like 65 MPH range to gain something back. Even my truck 17-19 MPG at 65 MPH rare time or two I can push 20 MPG at 65 MPH. The other problem is the engine load will be too high to even hit cruise timing and even if you could it would be too high to use. I've use to do trips on the I84 to Boise quite a bit and there is no way to reach cruise timing while travel those speeds. If you do manage to hit it like I said the timing might be too high. I'm aiming for 18.5 to 19 degrees cruise timing at 2,000 RPM's.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cracked+dodge+aluminum+wheels https://repairpal.com/recall/03V212000 Recall Details The aluminum wheels equipped on some trucks may crack, causing wheel failure. Dealers will inspect the wheels and replace them as necessary free of charge to resolve the concern. Our Quick Take The aluminum wheels can crack and fail, causing loss of vehicle control. What Should You Do? Dodge notified owners of affected vehicles starting in June 2003. You can check with your dealer to see if your vehicle is involved in this program. It is helpful to have your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) on hand when you contact them. The Dodge recall number is C21. Affected Cars 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 2003 Dodge Ram 3500

This is why I went to the steel wheels. I lost my factory 16's to the same issue. Then got a set of aftermarket wheels but the offset was wrong and slung road dirt and salt on the side windows all the time creating a safety issue of visibility. When a friend had a set of 2nd Gen wheels 16x7 that was perfect for my 235's. I might have lost some advantage with the steel wheels but the aluminum issue of cracking is way more common than you think.

You are close enough with your tire combo... 3.67:1 to the ground.

I'll reply with a picture. If you are growing a garden on your vehicle you need to go buy a 3,000 PSI power washer and get the mud and salt off your vehicle.

I learned the hard way. I got my first set of DAP 7 x 0.0085 SAC injectors but every time the engine got hot the lope would start. It so bad at the end that the truck wouldn't idle. After playing with injectors and swapping out a bunch of times I re-did the valve lash and found that in my hurry I over tightened a few creating this issue. As the valve got hot the lash gap would disappear. Make sure to double check the lash after torquing you jam nuts.

Here is a bit of camera fun while I waiting for my laptop to load the backup data. I had a moment between rain showers. Bartlet Pear blossoms.

Spring is here for sure... Would someone spend a few carbon credits please to get the temperature up above 42-48*F here for lo and hi temperatures. It sucks! It just cold and damp... I was going to work on the truck but I'm going to do computer work today inside where its warm yet and get my PC's updated to Ubuntu 18.04 LTS.

You might want to follow my thread then. My last trip home I barely moved the fuel gauge a 1/16 of tank for 133 miles of travel. I'm hoping to beat my 21.36 MPG on my first log entry.

Valve lash?

@Ben PM sent to you for security mod for ya... Between "Diesel the Dobberman" in the back seat and me packing a 9mm pistol rather nasty thought of stealing my truck.

Sound like someone needs to wash their truck more. I don't mean the paint. I mean get under the bed skirts and get the standing mud out of there. Any where that mud can collect and hold moisture / salt is bad deal. Even in the dead of winter I was out there with my power washer and rinsing tons of salt off and get the mud out of fender tops. Sloppy cold job but its well worth it when you still have rust free truck in salt country.

Point is that the ports or holes in the valves of both the steering box and hydrobooster are very small. It doesn't take very much metal debris to plug up the small ports. Not so much as hoses as taking the hydrobooster off and blowing out ports backwards hoping to clear any debris. If not you'll be getting a seal kit so you can break it down to clean it out. This why there is a big yellow warning tag on Blue Top steering boxes stating you must flush the system BEFORE installing because debris can plug the steering box.

No. High idle kit is still functional. Just need to disable Quadzilla high idle. Be aware the MPG mode has no affect after Quadzilla kicks after warm up. You so get the bonus of cutting back the cold start timing but only for the cold start and warm up. After that the Quadzilla controls timing directly.