Mopar1973Man

Typically a driveway slope or similar is a good starting place. Steeper the better for draining. Heater core won't drain period. You would have to roll the truck over on its roof. Yes as long as the engine is running the water pump is pushing water through the entire system. This is why the thermostat has to come out. So water can flow freely through everything.

Me. I'll stick with Hankook ATm...Good 60k to 80k tire.

Noise difference without the matting is very little. Not like that noise matting was doing a whole lot for dampening noise. Lot cleaner without it and seeing bright colored paint on the firewall is rather nice.

@leety what is your current mileage? Assuming stock injectors. Right?

Be aware that might not work. There is a huge loop of tubing near the cowl that holds the air bubbles. Very difficult to impossible to get the bubbles to move past. This why hanging the entire system and bleeding my method removes this large high loop and allows all bubbles to flow upwards. This why it won't work. If you look you'll see the master is much lower that the highest part of the tube loop and again very difficult to get the air out of this high loop.

All this talk about a block drain. Why? I just back my truck up a slope and leave the nose pointed down. All drains no biggy. I only use the radiator drain. The only hose I pull is the upper because I pull the thermostat out and throw it away. Then flush the entire block out using plenty of fresh water. Then Drain good. Now I fill the entire block through the thermostat hole till rim top full. Now install the the new thermostat and upper hose top off the coolant as normal. No burping required you done. No crawling around on the ground for lower hoses or block drains. Just the normal radiator drain.

One of the few reason I will not suggest any washable air filter or cold air intake with a washable filter. I've been using BHAF since very early on and never had any dust or dirt on my intake tract or compressor wheel of the turbo. Funny part, they make a washable oil filter for the Cummins too. https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7960-hubb-reusable-oil-filter-89-16-dodge-cummins.aspx

@Wild and Free would be the only member that is running them on his truck.

I did the next easier thing. I ripped all that stupid noise matting out of the truck. Mine was half mouse eaten, sagging, etc. Without that mat there it easy peasy to pull the valve cover and no issues with dirt and crud falling in.

Most likely got to pull the whole thing out and bleed it again. This why I'll never buy a bleed system. I'de rather assemble it myself and know when I bleed the system it ready for use. Not assuming that because it already done that no air bubbles have worked there way back into the system. Bleed process is on the bottom of the article.

That is why I live where I do. I hate crowds, big shopping centers like Walmart. I hate fighting the crowds to get just basic shopping done. In my case I've got no choice MoparMom's life depends on the treatments in Ontario, OR so while I'm here I've might as well buck up and handle the shopping and crazy/stupid drivers. Other than I'm not happy down here but I've got to do it. I've gotten smart to when to do certain things and particular places to shop at and get the most bang for my buck. Still it sucks I got to fight my way back out of Ontario, OR again. True story I got pulled over by a cop for traveling down a grade and he assumed my brake light failed because I proceeded down a windy 7% grade and no brake light seen the whole way down. Then I've been stopped by people to tell me my brake lights don't work. My typical driving style I drive like that center pedal is missing. The only time I use it is to stop at speeds below 25 MPH and panic stops. Most of my braking is done with the exhaust brake.

Ask any hotshotter with a million miles. Like @cajflynn . He used Delo 15w-40 and Fleetgaurd filters. As for myself I typically do Delo 15w-40 and Napa Gold filters. Change every 7.5k miles.

Typically I'm either right at the marked speed limit or about 5 under. Like today I was doing 60 MPH in 65 MPH travel is light and I'm not in a hurry. Here comes a younger generation (Snowflake!). Riding my . My definition of riding my is when I can no longer see your hood or bumper only see windshield. I flip on the backup lights and toggle them a few times. He backs off. Now following tight but several miles of passing area goes by even a two-lane passing area. Nope going to ride my . So now we come upon a double yellow and no passing sign. Now this dumb snowflake passes me. Then continues to drive excessive fast and disappears in the distance. By the time I reach Weiser, ID I'm right behind him again. So what did all his stupid driving get him? Nothing! Lower MPG's and risking other peoples lives for his dumb bonehead moves.

I know this all so well. Trust me there is there fair share of bonehead drivers out there. Ive pulled a few bonehead moves too.

No such module. PCM or ECM is the only two modules that will report error codes. We do not get Bxxxx codes. Might be a low grade code scanner this is kind of random to see with cheap code readers.

Ive heard of this occurring on 24V 2nd Gen trucks as well. Rare but does happen. I would have to ask the owner if he changed cams? Its strange to see specs on the end of the shaft.

The next step would be to hit the articles and read up on your error codes and preform the diagnostic work. Lets see if we can clean up some of the codes.

Some quick questions... Q: Does the wait to start come on instantly with the key or does it delay for a few seconds before coming on? I'm looking for sign of AC noise damage on the ECM. If the wait to start light is lagging then the ECM is brain dead till that light comes on. That is the first instruction after the ECM software boots up. Q: What is your AC noise voltage out of the alternator? Need to measure the AC voltage output of the BATT terminal of the alternator at idle with all loads turned off. The normal voltage is around 30mV AC. Above 50mV AC things get flaky. Above 100mV AC TQ conv lock up issues and weird behavior can be seen. Typically the result is either VP44 burns up the PSG or the ECM does. Q: What you mean you get 3 dings and lose the pedal? Any lights on the dash? (Check gages, Check Engine?) I'm puzzled by this the only thing I know of that trips the central timer chime is the Check Gage light, Low Wash light. As far as I know the Check engine light will not trip the chime. Q: What is your fuel pressure going down the road under load? This has to do with keeping the PSG on top of the VP44 cool if the pressure falls below 14 PSI the overflow valve shuts and all cooling of the PSG stops. So its possible the PSG is overheating. Funny part, very rarely do you see anyone report seeing the P0168 error code for an overheated VP44.

Holy crap dude that is just insanely hot. Yeah, and there isn't enough water, ice is unheard of, and A/C is just a dream... Another one... Just think its 140-150*F outside the windows are rolled up on your vehicle and you got vinyl seats. Yeah, I'd be pissed off big time with 2nd-degree burns on my back and . Steering wheel hotter than frying pan.

I know that feeling. My first summer of driving MoparMom back and forth to Ontario, OR for dialysis and trying to find a shady place to park the truck so I didn't fry waiting 4 hours. That was a tough deal to fill some days you fight to find the spot early in the day and keep it. Really hated those days when I had to leave the truck running with the A/C on to keep from cooking to death in the truck. Several of my past fire seasons in the past I remember reports going over the radio of 110 to 115*F temps with humidity as low as 5 to 8%. Ugh. Then being stuck in the water tender and waiting for orders from USFS. You'd take your turnout coat and lay it over the windshield to shade the cab.

Does someone want to unload this heavy trailer? All nothing but Ponderosa Pine rounds. Remember my trailer is 7 foot wide and 12 foot long. Top of the rail is 33 inches. Sad part is these are wet. That was only 1/3 of the tree the other 2/3 is still on the mountain.

Not really. That what wears out the clutch. Also if it does cycle out then the time the freon reverse direction pushing hot freon back into the evaporator making performance poor and warm.

I know the feeling. That why in the past I did the sport headlight upgrade. Then found out being cheap cost me more in the long run. My sport headlight where only used for one year and pulled because the light quality was really poor. Even with 4 bulbs burning. Then hunting around for HID upgrades. My problem was I didn't want to do this all over again so I went the full meal deal. Yeah, I was rubbing my tail and my wallet as the $700 flew out of my wallet. I'm not sorry I ordered the set I did. I got the Morimoto D2S lens which is bigger than the H1 mini's which most of the members here used. Did the same thing on the driving light I did the cheap method of using 100w aircraft landing light for years. This ended up costing me more, in the long run, being the bulbs are $22 a piece now and only last about 9 months. So I jumped for the quality light and did the PIAA LED driving lights. These lights for only 18w are so bright that in the snow you have to shut them off your eyes get tired of the light reflection. Between the two light sets, I've spent $1,000 on lighting. Sounds like a lot but its worth every penny.

Well in both cases we both should check the freon pressures I'm betting I'm a bit low and it creating more frost than sweat. It suppose to create cold air but not create a large amount of frost. If the compressor is cycling then your too low on freon as well. The compressor should stay locked all the time and create a sweaty cold but not a frosty cold. If it starts building frost then you could plug up the evaporator and performance of air flow will be reduced.

Yeah, there is a few different examples like some member here are looking for ball joints and willing to $739 for a set of ball joint for 3rd gen. Like on my 2nd gen I bought AC Delco ball joints for $30 a piece still going nearly 200k miles later. Some other member believes in Cummins thermostats and pay the $100 price tag. I would just buy a NAPA thermostat and save a bunch of money at $29. Yeah just started I'm a rather Noob yet. Denso is at least a pretty big company covering a wide range of parts.