Mopar1973Man

Just break that tranny. (posted picture above) Then she gotta fix it.

Got that some what...

ESE 3 MPH currently. 92*F and 21% RH.

Yeah, I think you're on the right track with the TIPM. I know the 3rd Gen trucks have the same design and issues using TIPM.

You might try getting ahold of @Chris O. he might know since @Me78569 is gone for time being.

Typically its a speed sensor issue. If the rear sensor is having trouble then the speedometer will act goofy or jump to speed. If it's a front sensor you may feel brake pull or odd braking. Either way, I would change up the speed sensors and get them replaced. Once an ABS light is tripped you need to cycle the key OFF and back on for the ABS module to re-test the system. Like in my case I replaced 3 set of sensors in the front and one in the rear. It turned out I had a bad tone ring on the unit bearing in the front.

So far so good. I've been cruising the ATV and running back and forth to keep a pair of eyes on the movement. Sprinklers are going behind the houses. Dam is still running strong feeding 3 homes and no issues. My neighbor lost his dam something failed and the water stop flowing. Unknown as of yet. It looks like USFS is going to keep the fire up on the ridge behind us. Now if the Good Lord allows us to keep water and nothing burns my waterline laying in the ditch behind the house.

Update... It is active burning behind the house right now.

Under the axle. The suspension has to remain like it sits on the ground.

Yeah, it's the "Rattlesnake Fire"... https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5999/ http://www.idahofireinfo.com/2018/07/rattlesnake-creek-fire-actively-burning.html

Be careful. P1698 is a different code from P1689...

Pinehurst is about 3/4 of a mile. The fire is west side across from Pinehurst Resort. Mopar1973Man is a bit off I'm the dot just north.

The only thing we've managed to do is protect homes. The fire as I know right now is still running unchecked on the west side.

There is only a handful of certified rebuilders out there that have the test stand for programming PSG on the VP44. Just because its a dealer you have no idea who supplied them. I know for sure Diesel Auto Power supplies both Midwest Injection and Industrial Injection both are certified rebuilders. Then Vulcan Performance is Industrial Injection as well. Now you know that your buying for a pump and has been properly rebuilt, pump bench tested for 3 hours and PSG flashed with the calibration. There are rebuilders out there that sell rebuilt VP44 with USED PSG units and never been bench tested. Typically they are cheaper in price. Not a good thing!

Welcome to the family! Just get a post out on the forum of the proper generation and everyone will be happy to help you out.

Still running the stock OEM. The biggest thing is keeping the pH level correct. This why your radiator tank gasket failed is the coolant turn corrosive and ate the rubber gasket on the tank head. As you'll see I've documented all my coolant flushes and still to this day the radiator is like brand new yet after 15 years and 350k miles.

There is 2 actually... One just below the stock placement where the plastic line comes up. Then the connector at the fuel sender is a plastic quick connect. There is a 3rd which in on the return side but typically not a huge issue. Stock placement places a lot of vacuum on the suction side. Just put a can of your favorite beer in the bed of the truck about where the sender now gives you piece of tubing and try to suck the beer from that can in the bed. You'll be all pissed off. This is why most of dump the stock pump (location) and moved back close as possible to the fuel tank which reduces the amount of vacuum on the suction line this also reduces the air leak issue.

100 to 280 is what you want. I know cheap GlowShift start at 80*F and go to 280*F. You want to see the low end.

Simple... Unhook the Quadzilla. Now turn your key on reset all codes. Double check your all cleared. Now fire up go for a good 10-15 mile test drive. Check the codes again. If the codes are still gone then the Quadzilla has issues on the boost fooler. If the codes return the MAP sensor and/or wiring on the truck is at fault.

Oh... The stock lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM. No relay or fuse. If its aftermarket to could be relayed and fused and some are not.

As long as the there are no quick connect fittings. This is why most of us opt for Packer Push Lock JIC connectors they are self-sealing and way less issue with air leak problems. Quick connection lines like the stock lines or Newer AirDog are prone to suction leaks. Some guys have gone back and order the parker push locks and cut the quick connectors off and replace them.

All I can say is I can get typically 150k miles on a trackbar. My last cheap Autozone bar barely lasted like 7k miles and the bushing failed not the ball. Larger your tires the shorter the lifespan. Like tie rod ends lasted 340k miles. Ball joint (AC Delco) are almost 200k miles and still going tight. Stock OEM gear box was still going at about 320k miles when the imput shaft seal failed. The guts were prefect still. Way more bonuses to 235's than any larger sized tire period. Larger tires look cool but, they break more stuff quicker.

Cranking the engine. The fuel pump relay in the PDC is the only control for the VP44. If that relay is bad or failed it will toss a P1689 code.