Mopar1973Man

Welcome Dylan. You might fill out your signature with all your modifications done to your truck so we know what you have. Then we can help you better on tuning. As it stands I would say bigger injectors. Injectors are too small for what turbo you've got. 7 x 0.010 would be a good start. I'm running 7 x 0.0085 injectors (+75 HP) now with a HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12).

I've not found a reason to even replace my OEM water pump after 350k miles. Still going strong. The biggest thing is coolant flushes, fresh thermostat and making sure the radiator face is clean.

I do think its rather strange that they placed the sprinklers in my yard instead of up on the hillside where the fire would be burning. Like I've currently got my sprinklers set up and going behind the house and keeping a huge area wet. With 4 sprinklers I've managed to make a wet line behind the house.

It would be chicken and potatoes if we ever get together...

Then yes you are going to want to do a full cold air intake to keep the EGT's under control. I would put more effort into the intercooler though. Being that is the biggest factor in controlling IAT temps more so than cold air intake really. Here is that calculator for ya. Now you can see in theory how each affects the temperature at the intake. http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

Not much, if you average boost is 2 PSI. Way different if you running WOT and racing. Again we are talking daily driver. Not 1/4 mile track star. There is little to no effect. Not the same topic... But if you want to see some really wild IAT take a peek at my 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 5.9L it normal for about 150*F to 170*F gasoline engine no wonder I need 92 Octane with a Mopar Performance PCM. Cold air intake is in place but has much higher IAT... No intercooler... Funny though IAT can be traded they are the same sensor... 120 to 140*F on my diesel seems like child's play.

Being there is IAT calculator that can, in theory, give you fuzzy math of the IAT with intercooler you'll find that normal highway driven Cummins typically has a very low turbo outlet temp close to the inlet temperature. Once it hits the intercooler it will be close to the outside temperature. So 90% of the temperature is based on the intercooler the inlet temperature really doesn't make a huge difference for highway driven trucks. Being I monitor IAT and Outside temperatures closely and rarely ever see a crazy IAT increase. Still pretty much always a +30*F IAT for 100*F weather. Even idling for 3 HOURS my IAT never rose over 135*F with the outside air being 103*F. Once I got rolling it dropped with air flow not a bunch but like 125-127*F. This is totally normal for 2nd Gen for summer temperature to range in the 100-140*F range. BHAF and stock air box will result in the same values. Daily driver. No real change will be seen for BHAF or Stock Air Box sucking from the fender. Now Racing... That is a whole new battle and rule set. Yes IAT has to be held down for EGT reasons...

I'll challenge that bet and say that Stock Air Box will be the same IAT as BHAF. Being that IAT temperature is based 90% on the Intercooler and not where the turbo is sucking from. Yes, I've still got my stock air box. Very easily prove that myth...

What?!?! Riggins from Google Maps. There isn't a cornfield for over 120 miles of Riggins, ID. North in Grangeville ID is all wheat fields typically. Then South is typically onions and corn in the Ontario, OR area.

Be aware that that fuel data is BETA and not functioning very well when my last trip home shows I'm only making 4 MPG.

BHAF has about 3 times more filter area compared to a stock panel filter. I really doubt there is any loss to BHAF but there is a limit of how far it will reach typically the boundary is around 600 HP (generally speaking). There are people that reached past this mark with good results too.

Website like this, and the knowledge of fixing up an 2nd gen to be more reliable than a new 4th gen. 2nd gen truck and becoming highly sought after and the collector's item.

I'm still wondering about the road debris problem and how will it stand up fo muddy roads and snow. If this set up can withstand that I know several ranchers down here that would love to jump on stuff like this.

Yeah, the whole MPG display is screwed. Yesterday I made the run to dialysis for MoparMom I was half out of it (lack of sleep). I picked up fuel and reset all the Quadzilla and trip. Drove over dropped Mom off and then went over to the Ontario, OR state park. I left the engine idle 3 HOURS being it was 103*F and I needed sleep. Woke up still running and cool in the cab to see the MPG showing 2.36 MPG which was exactly the same amount of gallons used. Mind you the gallons used is correct it is right on the nail for the most part (-0.2 Gallons off when I filled). After finding out I had to go home another way. So added another 150 miles longer to the trip to get stuck and traffic jam (Idaho 55) in the canyon and idled another 1 full hour keeping the cab cool. Looking at the display showing 4 MPG. It's laughable because if it was true I would have run out of fuel about 40 miles back about (4 MPG = 140 total distance for 35 gallons of fuel) I was already at 180 and had 1/8 tank used. I hate to say it @Quadzilla Power you are going to have to come up with something totally different. This is real life usage for me being I've got a 4-hour wait for MoparMom's treatment and might end up sleeping in the truck or stuck in traffic.

No joke. I've seen this very common up here where pup's buy a cheap 2" level kit and set of 35" tires and slap them on to find out they made a train wreck out of the front axle geometry and can figure out why the truck wonders all over now.

Update with the map and my pen is pointing to home.

Be careful on removing paint. I'm now starting to see people get into new issues of clean the paint off to bare metal and now have a rusting ground point which is worse. Typically I clean the ring terminal with a scotch brite pad and then just tighten down the fastener again to keep from exposing metal and creating a rust point.

Timbo's APPS is the only fully mechanical APPS sensor with NO ELECTRONICS! All mechanical switch and rheostat. No logic electronics for controlling the IVS switches. So yes Timbos is a huge improvement over a a stock APPS or a Wells APPS. Might still be a bad alternator diode or brush pack. I would look into doing the gorund wire mod for the system that @W-T posted in the articles. If that's confusing then my version of W-T article is on the second page (simplified).

On my truck, I shove a full-size 5-gallon bucket under the drain cock and open its stops just short of the top of the bucket and slide it out. Then I remove the thermostat and get the garden hose and flush that block out really good. After the block is flushed out good I drain it again. Close the drain. Now the first gallon of coolant goes in straight. Being there is already water in the system. The remaining coolant is mixed 50/50. Continue to fill the system till the coolant is just about to spill out of the thermostat hole. Now install the NEW thermostat and upper hole and top off. No need to burp the system already do if you do it this way. I've been using strictly NAPA 375-190 thermostats for the life of the truck and still not had one fail! No need for fancy high priced Cummins thermostats... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MRD375190

Update on Rattlesnake fire. Seem while I was down taking care of MoparMom's dialysis USFS came through yesterday and set up sprinklers and prepped my yard for fire protection. As for sleep... Monday from 12 noon to 1am then got to bed. Tuesday from 6am to 2am. Wednesday I took off MoparMom wasn't feeling good. By 5pm her potassium level jumped and end up head for the hospital. Got home again at 2am. I'm exhaust. Slept barely 4 hours. Thursday get rolling barely even human state at this point make it down to Ontario. MoparMom is getting here treatment enhanced to handle the problem. During her treatment I managed to sleep for 2.5 hours with the Cummins idling away with A/C going being it was only 103*F in Ontario, OR. Leave Ontario, OR and to find out US95 was shut down due to a wildland fire in Midvale, ID. Go turned around and headed back to Idaho 55. Get over there to be held up for an accident over there. We made it home again at 1am in the morning. I got some sleep but I'm still a shell of a man at the time of typing this. I've called my fire chief and left a message saying I've got to step down till I can catch up.

I can see for track or dyno purposes of putting on a velocity stack. Then when you are done with the fun I would toss the BHAF back on again.

@99dodge_pos you find out we've got our own family of guys here. Typically they throw in the comic relief to the thread keeping the tension down. Seriously though these guys typically have there head screwed on tight and have a wealth of knowledge to share.Just relax and enjoy the comments and they will get you past you hurdles.

I'm down here so MoparMom gets dialysis. Then back home to the smoke-filled valley. Fricken crazy the amount of fires burning. There is another fire down in Midvale ID that is burning across grassland down here. Smoke is not so bad down here in Ontario, OR but heading north its crazy thick in places.

Now see if you can repeat it again. Then you know you got the tune figured out. It could be a fluke too. Time to find out.

Yeah, they have to replaced as pairs.