Mopar1973Man

Wow. In all the years out here in New Meadows, ID I've only chained up ONCE. Just to see if the chain fit good. Since then I've travel most all the local roads in 2WD. Very, Very rare for me to grab the 4WD and use it in the winter. To this day I still pack my chains in the truck and my tow chain but never used them in over 349k miles of road being traveled. My secret weapon is the 235's I typically run since I switched from the 265's to the 235's I've always had good winter traction without the need for chains.

Thank you for posting that.

3.55 rear axle.The inch smaller tire is going to nearly get me to 3.73.

Large Small

@Dynamic showed me a spot on the back side of the pan where there is plenty of room for the sensor to be installed. You can weld in a bung 1/8" - 27. When you drop the pan you'll see what I'm talking about.

I not sure of the purpose of your truck. You might consider both the AirDog and the FASS both. AirDog is a much smaller package and easier to tuck up and out of the way. FASS is the favorite for most here but the FASS is a much larger pump and difficult to protect the filters and pump from flying debris and strike damage if your running offroad for any reason. Something to consider in your choice... There are few people here that went to the fully mechanical pump that is belt driven off the crank. Plenty of options and things to consider.

Dump it in my lap... I don't suggest any kind of washable filters period. Bad, Bad, Bad idea... Every time you wash the filter you breaking down the media. I've seen several brand new filters K&N, Afe, S&B, etc. I've had a few vendors send me new filters to try. 100% were box up and sent back. Every single one had holes in the media that was big enough for dust to pass right through. With K&N filter... All the oil is pulled out of the filter and the dust now coats the turbo compressor wheel. With BHAF. No oil and no dust.

Normal run span is 14 to 20 PSI. So like my truck idles at about 17-18 PSI and WOT might pull down to 15 PSI. This is a good fuel pressure. 14 PSI to 20 PSI is a good fuel pressure. 10 PSI to 14 PSI is a marginal realm. It's still OK and meets even Dodge's specs but after the pressure drops below 14 PSI the overflow valve is closing till it reaches 10 PSI and its closed tight. Now there is no return flow from cooling and lubing purpose and the VP44 take a beating. Below 10 PSI your causing damage to the VP44 for sure. This is another reason why low-pressure lights are a bad idea being most all of them come on at 3 to 5 PSI which by then the damage is already being done. Think of the fuel pressure as being the oil pressure for your VP44. The only thing that lubes that pump is the fuel itself.

The two I would use for injectors have been Vulcan Performance and Diesel Auto Power.

Return from the VP44 is very limited anyway... Return on the left and supply on the right. No matter what you do for pressure the volume is limited to that small port drilled in the body of the pump. This why I never suggest pressure beyond the standard 14-20 PSI. There is nothing gained going to higher supply pressures.

My problem isn't really the summer heat even though we reach the 100's every summer. My problem is the winter time keeping the fuel from gelling up in -40*F weather. This is the only reason I've never bother with a cooler for the fuel. Like others have mentioned I'm not returning to fuel basket I've got it to the filler neck. My fuel lines do not run outside the frame but inside the frame so it shielded from extreme cold and extreme heat. I'm also using an old-school draw straw from the early AirDog 150 time still never failed and still no 1/4 tank issues for a daily driver. Still I'm changing fuel filter every 60k miles because they never get dirty. 60k miles and no pressure loss.

I agree with most here I would check that fuel pressure ASAP. These trucks are known to start and run without a lift pump. Hard on the VP44 being you have no codes your lucky right now. I would get a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and see what is going on.

I would hope that the pan is thick enough to to be tapped. Hard telling without looking at it. If it a thick wall then I would drill and tap.

That 7 x 0.010 injectors and a Quadzilla would be the awesome setup on your current turbo. You'll be able to defuel the Quadzilla enough to build boost and get the turbo lit then cut it loose with a wire tap and extra fuel.

Some people have all the bad luck. Currently 349k miles. Ball joints at 185k still running that second set. AcDelco from RockAuto. Tie rod ends changed at 340k miles for the first time. Using NAPA parts. Steering gear box at 335k miles. Blue Top Gear Box installed. My box was still tight just leaking and rusted badly. I damaged the input cap trying to rebuild the gear box. Still running OEM power steering pump. Brakes where done back at 180k miles. Still going on OEM rotors. NAPA track bar not to long ago. (Bad mistake bought a Autozone bar because I needed it now!) Steering is tight like the day I bought the truck brand new in 2002. The whole trick is not to install oversized tires and wheels. The only sized tires I've ever ran was 265/75 R16, 235/85 R16 and now going to switch 245/75 R16 (increase my final ratio to 3.69).

I'm running a 60/60/12 Hybrid HX35/40 turbo which would fit your application just about perfect...

Kind of like this one... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2260/overview/

Now @Dynamic showed me a spot in the rear of the pan which is near the OEM sensor and shows a close to right value. I've not move there yet. I need to drill and weld in the bung yet. Low on my priority list right now. The hot line shows while it running but can be affected by road condition like excessive snow, slush, or excessive water spray on the line. You may need to insulate the line to keep a good reading.

Kind of like this problem... Cab filter packed with corn.

I'm just south of you by about 3 hours. Funny how the Palouse has that problem with all the grain fields up there. Come down here not as much they exist but the hawks and owls tend to pick them off rather quickly. I find squirrel tails in the yard all the time.

I'm looking for a 1996 Ford Explorer wiring diagram for the HVAC wiring diagram. I've got a local lady that needs the A/C in her vehicle and the blower quit and the compressor won't come on. I need info on finding the wiring diagram,

Bad connectors have been always an electrical trick to learn. No signs of failure (melted, blown fuses, etc.) just the connector is weak and randomly opens the circuit. I've found in the past to sometimes to light bend the contacts slightly to make a better connection if this works then you know the connector is at fault.

All the years of living out here in Idaho I've only had one problem packrat. Since them no more. I can leave my trucks outside or in the garages, either way, I've not had a problem with mice or rats.

My typically hot fuel mark is 130-135*F on 107* day. Even after parking for long periods still very little rise. Typically my IAT and Fuel temp are nearly the same. Typically flip-flopping IAT and fuel temp at about +5*F spread. Maybe that why I can go 60k miles with fuel filters because I'm not creating any asphaltene. Last two years now I've got 250 mile round trips between Ontario, OR and home. Last trip I measured the outside air at 107*F and the fuel temp maxed out at 135*F. IAT was floating about 132*F. BHAF as well. Remember its not the cold air intake. It about the temperature crossing the intercooler. Then there is a coolant jacket within an inch or so from IAT sensor.