Mopar1973Man

Google Drive... I sure wished the files were just saved directly to the SD card on the onboard memory of the device. When I manually uploaded the file to the SD card on my phone it works fine. Google Drive acts like the file doesn't exist but it does but Quadzilla can list it but not open it. Yeah, it shows up on the screen and can't import the tune. Again copy it to my little 16 GB SD card file works just fine and Quadzilla can see the edited file and imports like its suppose too. Never was a fan of exporting to cloud, download on the home PC, upload back to the cloud then import back into Quadzilla. Why not just save it to the storage of the device plug in the USB cable, edit directly on the device from the PC. Then just unplug the cord. Much simpler that all this uploading and downloading to make one file edit "1998.5 to 2002 Dodge" to "V2 Quadzilla Only".

Actually, you want to optimize your RPM so your highway travel is around 1,900 to 2,000 RPM. Most of this comes from @cajflynn back in the day his old 2001 Dodge was a 3.73 ratio axle and towed like a dream. Then after see all the 3.55 geared truck and 37" tire troubles. Why I was not really messing with tire sizes. Now after a bit a experience and I'm jumping out to optimize the tires to gears to make the best setup. Remember bigger tires have more rolling resistance especially with 285mm wide face then with all the steel belt you going to have more rotational mass. Just be aware. @Marcus2000monster I would in your case follow my lead and find a pair of junk tires on the rear axle to play with first before committing on tire purchase. Like I could do a 215/85 R16 on my truck my problem is I will most likely overwhelm the tires with the amount of torque I produce. So, on the Cummins I'll stick with 245/75 R16 which is a 1 wider than the 215's. I had to change my fuel map for daily driving the fuel comes on too quick and the tires lose the battle pretty fast.

Here is what I get... I've already uninstall and reinstalled the iQuad app... Nevermind something change now the import is working from the iQuad app where it didn't last night...

Remember higher the ratio number the higher in the RPM for said speed. This is why I'm running a pair of junk tires on the back of my truck for about a month to find out if I like the ratio or not. So far I love this 245's set up and think the 215's on the 1/2 ton will be awesome too.

Best suggestion is get ahold of @Dynamic he would know about the set up for your condition.

Not sure. The best way would be to see the RPM at 65 MPH then you know if you got to up or down in ratio. In other words heavily retarded timing. There is a nasty hole in the middle of the map for stock. (EPA crap)

You want to come down toward the 3.73 mark more so. At 3.69 ratio 65 MPH is right at 1,960 RPM's. 3.55 is a bit better for strictly interstate travel at 80+ MPH. 3.73 seem to be way better on the standard 2 lane mountain roads and even towing. You have to consider what you do the most. Remember Quadzilla shows -1 MPH off this is actually 65 MPH.

Sublevels at least for my old Edge Comp. 1 33% stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 2 50% stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 3 67% stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost 4 Some extra fuel at low boost 5 Full fuel at zero boost

That's where everything stops. There is no option to open period...

Edge Products work on two settings. Main level which you see on the main screen. The second number is the sublevel it called something different on the Juice. But it in the menu for how aggressive the fueling occurs. Main Level 40 HP 60 HP 80 HP 100 HP 120 HP Sub level wise is how much boost is required to unlock the fuel.

Right here... https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

I'm assuming you did these? I love my Morimoto's. Better than any LED or Halogen light that for sure. Curious what color bulb did you use? 4300k, 5000k?

The biggest thing is to get over your fears and just do it. The biggest thing is to make sure the KEYWAY is up at 12 o'clock, not the TDC marker. This requires the nut to be removed and washer to see the keyway. Beyond that just removal. The only other trick is to leave 3, 5, and 6 lines on the engine they do not have to be removed. 1, 2, and 4 have to be removed at a unit. There are 2 bolts holding the rear bracket down by the power steering pump. Then the 4 nuts holding at the gear case. Be nice to all your fuel lines and don't bend anything you can flex them a bit but don't purposely bend them.

What size tires? What gear ratio? Any boost leaks? Could you get us more specs on the turbo? Typically most report the 3 numbers (54/60/12) 54mm compressor wheel, 60mm turbine wheel, and 12cm2 exhaust housing. What level and sublevel are you running? What size injectors are you running? Just looking again you might look at the TV cable adjustment.

Good idea. It only a few more bolts to do the tappet gasket and simple as heck to do. Just please don't get stupid with a ton load of silicone sealant. Typically I would just light fill the gap of the gasket with a thin layer of silicone then slip the clean cover into the groove. THat bit of silicone will aid in sealing the cover better. The face to the block doesn't really need anything the rubber will seal just fine.

Way taller. 47RE is 0.68 NV4500 is 0.75 NV5600 is 0.73 What I'm finding for final ratio at around 3.60 to 3.70 is awesome. Mine is at 3.69:1 ratio to the ground with the 245's now. I just towed the RV home tonight. I'll admit I was being abusive to the truck to see how far I could reach. Needless to say you can push pretty darn hard on it now. Few grades I left the cruise set for 60 MPH. Walked on over. The best part was a Ford flatbed tow truck was empty couldn't pass me as I left it in 5th gear hauling on over the grade doing 60 MPH. Then another grade I down shifted to 4th (direct) and beat on it some more running up the grade at 55 MPH which is up around 2,300 RPM now. But it pulled great. Still had power to spare. Transmission temperature was great floating 160 to 170*F remember that is just a factory NV4500 no coolers, no heat shields, and just the 50 SAE oil in the case. I did push hard enough to get engine coolant temperature up in the 210-220*F range. Like I said I was being a bit abusive to see how far I could reach. I'll say there is way mode towing power. Runs cooler EGT and engine wise on the flats. I'll also admit with the Quad on any wiretap mode it will pull the tires out from under itself. Level 3 is perfect you can mat the throttle to the floor and it stops just short of 1,200*F in top gear on flat ground. (Quadzilla and +75 HP injectors)

@JAG1 been bugging me to fix his A/C on his truck.

All my tips are in that thread... Not hard. I was even able to teach @JAG1 how to change his first VP44.

Can't import at all for some reason. Just tried that files are grayed out and do nothing.

Now if I can con you to come over here. Hint hint....

I would say still either air in the fuel issue or a injector with pissy spray popping low.

Dude... That means I've got to rebuild my tunes... Not cool. Oh well.

Only if the temperature is below 70*F. Then it switches off above 70*F. With all my driving back and forth, I can say without a doubt IAT and fuel temp typically are within 5 degrees of each other.

Sad part the water pump is purely a coolant flush issue. If the coolant was flush at a proper time you wouldn't eat the water pump bearing. I'm at nearly 350k miles on the OEM water pump on the Cummins. I've got 172k miles on the V8 water pump. Still to this day all shop I visit they all do the same thing test for freeze point but don't test for pH level. Then when the pH gets corrosive then it eats the bearings and any other metal the coolant touches.

I've done the flash. Nothing has changed no extra gauge. I've even selected the vehicle again. What am I missing?