Mopar1973Man

Now the EGR, SCR and other means of control are rather well, wasteful. Regen the DPF by dumping fuel down the exhuast stroke to push fire to the DPF to burn it clean. Then the EGR is dumping the carbon back into the intake manifold and plugging as well enhancing wear of the cylinders. I've watched Ford Powerstroke trucks going down the road start regen cycle puking lots of smoke and lose power as the cycle starts and then afterward then clears right up and back to running strong. I think there is much better ways of making clean burning diesel vehicle but here in the US is about making them inefficient and keeping the road taxes flowing.

Just remembered that @dripley also having weird sensor issues as well every time he fiddles with the loom he gain back function. Dripley can post up his findings.

Wow. I figured diesel was primary fuel for vehicles over there. I guess UK like the US constantly pushing petrol. Sad...

@Quadzilla Power is there any way to change the tire size to zero for pass through. Still even on my truck my speedometer is dead on, OBDII speed is dead on but Quadzilla is -1 MPH always. You might check but 245s and 215 tire are smaller than your minimum. 95.4" 215/85 R16 95.7" 245/75 R16 Just be aware... The one-ton trucks ran 215's for few years.

One truck I had looked at had similar knock we figured bearings but turned ou damaged rist pin and piston in either 5 or 6.

Balance comes in due time.

Here you go some reading material...

Time for the C section...

Like tonight I pissed off a truck with my HID's on low beam. He flip on his high beams then I blasted back with mine. Then all I saw was his arms stretch out like ... I know my lights are aimed properly but there is that rare times of angles on a grade than make them appear too high.

Yeah I know been down that road a few times with other vehicles. It might be a controlled mess but still, a mess. I know if you can pull it all a part I know you can get it stuff back in there just the same. Looks like you took all the body mounts out and then jack the nose up to gain that tad bit of room to get the oil pan over the frame. Am I right?

You absolutely correct. Problem is that most MSDS sheets for 2 Cycle Oil states only pour point. True diesel cloud point is much higher typically.

Which one? P0234, P0236, P0237 or P0238

Looks like a mess.

Still got to replace both the blower be cause the bearings are bad. Then the resistor is failing for sure it will be all broken on the ceramic. As the resistor cools the fan starts again.

I'm currently working indirectly on the Rattlesnake Fire which is still currently burning out my back door in the back country. I've been doing the repairs for the local FD keeping trucks rolling.

We have them in our store for sale.

Hoses typically don't plug but the orifices in the booster or the steering gearbox will which are much smaller holes.

Any error codes? Could be an overboost condition creating this...

Ahh that explains some. Snowmobile oil normally cut with PPD (pour point depressants) which is naptha or another chemical that I can't remember now.

Pretty simple smaller tires or switch to higher gear ratio 3.55 to 4.10.

Ill jump on this tomorrow at home and give that a shot.

Time to change both blower resistor and the blower motor. The blower motor bearings start to fail and draw more amps across the resistor which now the resistor is randomly work or not. This is why you need to replace both.

Weird... Out here the snowmobile 2 cycle oil has much lower pour point down -50*F compared to winterized 2 diesel at -20*F. No plugging has happened for me all the way down to -40*F.

Typically 28.3 to 37.3 for value normal live tools can't math out real pressure numbers.

Needs to able to store files (logs), location for track mapping, device ID and call information part of location for track mapping.