Mopar1973Man

Most all fuel system today replace most if not all the stock fuel line and banjo bolts. Like FASS and AirDog I know for sure replace from the fuel tank to the injection pump. I would suggest to keep your stock fuel filter and get the big line kit from Vulcan Performance so you not deleting that stock filter.

I'm going to be in line to replace my 10 year old Kenwood MP3 stereo some day. I was smart long ago and bought a single DIN dash plate and then the plugs for the wiring so all you got to do is basically plug in your new stereo and bolt it down. Takes a lot of work out of the figure. As for steering wheel controls, we had a guy on here attempting to use an adapter for his new stereo and it didn't work. I've got a AUX port in the face and that works out fine for now since I've got my cellphone jacked in and can play MP3 from the phone, make phone calls through the stereo, even while I'm out in the truck I can watch movies on my cellphone and enjoy the rich (stock speakers) sound system. Much better than cellphone speaker.

Tricks I've learned about the Mighty Cummins. Strange but true if you want to cross a deep snow drift do it in reverse. Sound weird but the light weight rear axle will get right up on top a snow drift and the heavy front axle will follow just fine. Done thing a bunch of times to keep from chaining up for 20 foot long snow drift. Then have dirt on the other side. I've had friends try it and works! It always best to go out and experiment with your truck early in the snow season to work out any bugs and traction issues first thing. Typically I go down to a wide turn out and play a bit with icy conditions and get used to the feeling of the truck sliding. Manual transmissions typically work much better than automatic. You can travel a gear high keeping your RPM's lower and the torque low. This allows you to walk farther and control your travel without needing much more than 4WD at the worse. I was doing a search for my photo I did years ago when I was out playing in a controlled environment where I buried my truck and had to dig out. Can't find that old photo.

Oh boy this might get really interesting. I would start with the power steering fluid. But I've got little hope for it to do much good. Basically, the best thing to do would pull both steering gearbox and the hydro booster and get a rebuild or seal kits and full take them apart and clean them out. I'm going to bet the two parts are full of sludge. If you want to do flushing you might as well buy about a gallons worth of standard power steering fluid (NO ATF). Then disconnect the steering gear box return hose from the back of the pump and plug that port on the pump to keep the fluid in. Now route that return hose to a waste pan. Now with the front axle off the ground, engine off, the key to OFF position not LOCK. Now cycle slowly from lock to lock. This will pull the fluid through the geat box and hopefully push out the debris and sludge if any. Keep filling the reservoir up and continue to flush until the fluid coming out the return is just as clean as what goes in. Now hook up the return again. Now cycle lock to lock with the reservoir full to push any air out before starting. The hydro booster is not much you can do but change the fluid a few times till the color looks good again. As for the pump is if still making noise you might have a problem with either the hydro booster or the steering gearbox with something partially plugged up. If you purchase any parts for the system make sure to blow all the old fluid out of the system before hooking any new devices up. Most will void the warranty if there old fluid or debris found.

Correct. I'm assuming the gel help pull the heat back into the fuel plate below. You can see where I use my blow gun to attempt to blow off a chip of plastic when I pried the PSG open and it dropped on the gel. The gel is like a thick clear grease just about.

I've seen everything... CPU heatsink and CPU fan mounted on top Bulge blower tube routed to blow air over the VP44 Even air dam tubing created to blow air over the VP44 Transmission cooler use for cooling fuel The list goes on... The funny part is the aluminum cover is a just protective shield to the PSG electronics and will not absorb any heat. The electronics are actually heat sunk to the fuel below. The electronics are attached to the aluminum body facing the fuel. All the air and heatsink methods do nothing. As you can see there is an air gap between the plastic cover and the electronics. Without the aluminum cover...

I think the common factor is everyone just jumps out and buys parts because everyone is buying this or that. Truthfully you have to build to fit all your hardware. Like you can just go out and buy a big turbo thinking you going to make a gain. Turbo is based on the amount of fuel being burned. Then tuners and timing also affect the turbo behavior. I've was taught long ago with V8 Mopar's you can't just take a stock 400 CID with a 2 barrel Holley 600 CFM carburetor and drop on a 1050 CFM 4 barrel. There has to be supporting mods to make that carburetor function its best. That brings us around turbo, injectors, and tuners. This is only the surface. Then you got to factor in tires size, gear ratio, transmission type, lift kits and truck common purpose. Still to this day I'm slowly been working the power up a little at a time and find what is weak or what needs to be upgraded. Still to this day I see people jump out and buy a huge turbo, set of large injectors and a tuner. The lift kit the truck and put on 35" tires and then wonder why it smokey, breaking driveline parts and has no MPG now.

When was the last time you flushed the power steering fluid? (Suppose to be flushed every 30k miles) When was the last time you flushed your brake fluid? (Suppose to be flushed every 30k miles) Remember the power steering system has no filter so any debris will start plugging up ports and orifices in the hydro-booster and steering gearbox. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it will pull moisture from the air. This typically starts the process of rotting out the master cylinder and calipers (wheel cylinder if you got them). Then the rubber starts to degrade as well. This is why fluid turns black. Power steering and brake fluid is not a lifetime fluid then should be changed on a schedule.

Another to add to the collection...

Beyond that, you would need to adjust your tire pressure based on the axle weight of the current time. Like myself I typically do the pressure math and round down or subtract about 5 PSI on the pressures allowing the tires to be a bit soft sided and conform to ice better. Then in the summertime I do the same math and round up or add about +5 PSI.

Yeah. Many days of that. Again the trick is more weight per square inch gains better traction. So in just reducing my footprint by dropping tire size help a bunch. I've been to several fire calls (vehicle accidents) where I got out and fell on the highway and fought to even stand up. I've also travel up many snow covered forestry roads in the dead of winter hauling a snowmobile trailer in the past. (Sold the sled). Still have to travel these roads to visit friends. Simple way to look at it. If you to walk out in deep snow you'll sink with every step. Now if you put on snowshoes now you can walk across the top of the snow. Wider footprint allows you to spread your weight over more square inches allowing you to float on top. This is why I held to the 235's for so long because with 4,400 pounds on the front axle narrow footprint gave me way better bite on ice. Now with my plans to switch 245's footprint is going to change again as well being almost a inch wider. Tread face does matter too. M/T tires tend to perform rather poorly. Like my last two sets of A/T's (Hankook) ran wonderfully on snow, ice and slush still to this day no chains. Oh I almost forget to say... Its a Open Diff Dana 80. No limited slip at all.

Exactly what my design is all about. I don't care to make big HP. I want a clean daily driver. Comparing the Edge Comp (or Edge Juice) to the Quadzilla you'll find the fuel control is way better on the Quadzilla allowing for smoke-free tunning. Then timing to get the MPG's up where they belong. The other factor since you can set fuel BELOW stock level you can reduce the amount of stress on the driveline components where Edge products don't have this ability. 7 x 0.0085 DAP VCO Injectors HX35/40 (60/60/12) Hybrid Turbo Quadzilla Adrenaline

Wow. In all the years out here in New Meadows, ID I've only chained up ONCE. Just to see if the chain fit good. Since then I've travel most all the local roads in 2WD. Very, Very rare for me to grab the 4WD and use it in the winter. To this day I still pack my chains in the truck and my tow chain but never used them in over 349k miles of road being traveled. My secret weapon is the 235's I typically run since I switched from the 265's to the 235's I've always had good winter traction without the need for chains.

Thank you for posting that.

3.55 rear axle.The inch smaller tire is going to nearly get me to 3.73.

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@Dynamic showed me a spot on the back side of the pan where there is plenty of room for the sensor to be installed. You can weld in a bung 1/8" - 27. When you drop the pan you'll see what I'm talking about.

I not sure of the purpose of your truck. You might consider both the AirDog and the FASS both. AirDog is a much smaller package and easier to tuck up and out of the way. FASS is the favorite for most here but the FASS is a much larger pump and difficult to protect the filters and pump from flying debris and strike damage if your running offroad for any reason. Something to consider in your choice... There are few people here that went to the fully mechanical pump that is belt driven off the crank. Plenty of options and things to consider.

Dump it in my lap... I don't suggest any kind of washable filters period. Bad, Bad, Bad idea... Every time you wash the filter you breaking down the media. I've seen several brand new filters K&N, Afe, S&B, etc. I've had a few vendors send me new filters to try. 100% were box up and sent back. Every single one had holes in the media that was big enough for dust to pass right through. With K&N filter... All the oil is pulled out of the filter and the dust now coats the turbo compressor wheel. With BHAF. No oil and no dust.

Normal run span is 14 to 20 PSI. So like my truck idles at about 17-18 PSI and WOT might pull down to 15 PSI. This is a good fuel pressure. 14 PSI to 20 PSI is a good fuel pressure. 10 PSI to 14 PSI is a marginal realm. It's still OK and meets even Dodge's specs but after the pressure drops below 14 PSI the overflow valve is closing till it reaches 10 PSI and its closed tight. Now there is no return flow from cooling and lubing purpose and the VP44 take a beating. Below 10 PSI your causing damage to the VP44 for sure. This is another reason why low-pressure lights are a bad idea being most all of them come on at 3 to 5 PSI which by then the damage is already being done. Think of the fuel pressure as being the oil pressure for your VP44. The only thing that lubes that pump is the fuel itself.

The two I would use for injectors have been Vulcan Performance and Diesel Auto Power.

Return from the VP44 is very limited anyway... Return on the left and supply on the right. No matter what you do for pressure the volume is limited to that small port drilled in the body of the pump. This why I never suggest pressure beyond the standard 14-20 PSI. There is nothing gained going to higher supply pressures.

My problem isn't really the summer heat even though we reach the 100's every summer. My problem is the winter time keeping the fuel from gelling up in -40*F weather. This is the only reason I've never bother with a cooler for the fuel. Like others have mentioned I'm not returning to fuel basket I've got it to the filler neck. My fuel lines do not run outside the frame but inside the frame so it shielded from extreme cold and extreme heat. I'm also using an old-school draw straw from the early AirDog 150 time still never failed and still no 1/4 tank issues for a daily driver. Still I'm changing fuel filter every 60k miles because they never get dirty. 60k miles and no pressure loss.

I agree with most here I would check that fuel pressure ASAP. These trucks are known to start and run without a lift pump. Hard on the VP44 being you have no codes your lucky right now. I would get a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and see what is going on.

I would hope that the pan is thick enough to to be tapped. Hard telling without looking at it. If it a thick wall then I would drill and tap.