Mopar1973Man

Won't do you any good for my tune. I'm set up for a much smaller turbo (HX35/40 hybrid 60/60/12) and smaller injectors (7 x 0.0085). 17, 20, 23, 26, Max of 27 Running Level 3 I can hold the throttle to the floor empty and never reach 1,200*F. Towing I barely touch 1,100*F with the cruise set for 55 MPH in 4th gear (2,100 RPM) climbing 6% grade with 235/85 R16 tires (3.55 gear) Also, coolant temps never exceed 208-210*F typically.

I would say Industrial Injection would be a better source then. Pay a bit more for the pumps.

T Keyword is "some"... That being said some pumps are built with better pump timing, pressures and volumes and others well didn't get all the love they should have just made the bottom margin. Like that why I may never reach my high mark of 27.2 MPG because the current pump is not built with the same kind of love as the last pump I had. (Midwest SO pump)

Basically it really close to my daily driver tune just less timing so it can build boost easier. Daily driver tune you can crank up the timing quite a bit. I really haven't built a separate tow tune just gone in and drop the timing some on the sliders. The rest is the same.

Here is the boiling point of water at different levels of vacuum. On of the few reason I like to do A/C work at noon at the hottest part of the day and have the customer drive to me. This produces a lot of engine bay heat and all the plumbing is nice and hot. Little vacuum will go a very long ways. https://www.quora.com/What-happens-to-boiling-point-of-water-in-vacuum

Got to ask is it stainless or aluminized? Straight piped or muffled? Ball joint I would suggest staying away from Moog. I'm using AC Delco Ball joint currently and just about to cross 200k miles on them. As for the tie rod ends, I got NAPA parts there. I highly suggest you take it in for alignment afterward even though it just toe setting its worth it.

Fact. Always buy firewood unsplit. There is more wood in an unsplit round than split firewood load. Most of the guys out here that cheat people deliver split firewood. That is one thing I like about my trailer. If you reach 3-foot tall pile you are at 252 cubic feet (just barely under 2 cords) 3 x 7 x 12 = 252 cubic feet. 2 Cords is 256 cubic feet. Then when you stack the split firewood you'll end up with typically a bit more than whatever amount of cords you bought.

Something to point out. Most all the assembly on these truck are put to together without any sealant. If you took it apart and there was no sealant then you put it back together without sealant. Do not add sealant to parts because you think you should.

Between my 235's and 3.55 gears I'm very capable of towing 5th gear. First transmission never had a 5th gear nut issue. Now this transmission (rebuilt Weller Truck with upgraded shaft) I can also tow in 5th gear no issue. No noises at all. I just got to be above 50 MPH to keep 5th. Once I drop below 1,200 on the tach I must down shift. My peak power is right around 1,800 RPM being how I've got my timing set up on the Quad which doesn't force me to turn high RPM for peak power. Which on the OP signature I do not see a tuner so that explains it because the stock ECM tune has a nasty hole in the middle (12-14 degrees) that is all retard timing that creates a huge amount of heat and EGT's.

Yeah, when you go to a Dragon Fire VP44... https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/0470506028df/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcLZBRCnARIsAMPBgF1AeYYHMYeYicpEJ0Ky81zp93EQqjNPd5j747PFh4NT10U2fVZ8CpYaAi1-EALw_wcB

There are lens kits out there to polish and seal the plastic again. How long they last I'm not sure. Might be time to look forward towards better lights. The problem with stock light is that they only use 55w (4.5 amps) halogen bulbs. Still, this is a huge amount of power and the optics are well oh hum quality. I've got a few friends with the 2nd gen factory fog light and I'm not impressed with the light quantity or path. After going down the LED path and picking the PIAA's way different story. Yeah, they are pricey but a fraction of the electrical load 18w (1.5 amps) per light. The beam path is much wider and longer than OEM lights. In the dark nights of winter, the PIAA alone are brighter than my Morimoto HID's. Optics are designed with a good cutoff so not blinding oncoming drivers too. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/147-LP-530-Driving-LED-Light-Kit.aspx With a bit of time, I'm sure you can fit those right in the stock hole. I'm going to do that this summer is getting mine tuck back a bit better but they nearly look factory for size.

Man, that sucks big time. I know what the guys are talking about on the rusty bolts. All I can say is get out the hot knife and heat those up a few cycles and cool them to break the rust bond. The heat trick was past along to me by a old tyme mechanic that passed away. He handed me a rust bolt and nut. I tried to remove the nut from the bolt using any tools he had. Nope, Not happening. I hand it back to him. He heats the bolt up just before it turned red hot. Then quickly tossed it in ice cold water. When he picked it up out of the water then nut came off with his fingers. I've used this trick many times and 90% of the time it still works. It's based on the shock of the extreme heat to the extreme cold. Make me want to get my truck out today and power wash the tail end and get those shackles painted them before they get like yours.

I've got of set of 3 LED bulbs in my bathroom of my Jayco RV. I know they are at least 4 years old. Super bright very low power consumption. What is really cool is my house is completely converted to LED household bulbs and I love going down to the inverter and looking at the house load in the evening it is floating 2-3 Amps. These are now heading into there 2nd year and still going.

Typically I the type that doesn't suggest swapping VP's (SO for HO). I know some people say you can. Yes. There is nothing to hold the gear when the VP44 pump is removed.

P1698 code is the PCM not receiving bus messages. Time to inspect your wiring.

You're welcome...

Even my stock injectors with 150k miles on then when I sent them to DAP for testing the lowest one was like 240 bar (3480 psi). Bottom of stock spec is 293 bar (4250 psi). Stock pop should be 310 bar (4,500psi) and maximum limit is 327 bar (4,750 psi). I would say start with fresh injectors and I bet most of that would clear up.

I used to be strictly wood heat. I use to bring in 10-12 cord and hand split every bit of it. Now with MoparMom with dialysis, I spent the money for the modular heat pump system. Being I've got to run here to dialysis treatments every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The houses won't stay very warm with wood if you're not there. That's why I can get away with so little now. Being I only burn in the dead of winter and when we are home the rest of the time the heat pump is covering the house at a cool 68*F or so. The guest house and shop I've still only got wood heat down there but I can heat the living quarters with oil radiator heater on low keeping the room temp around 40-45*F max. Shop I'll fire up that stove if I'm planning on being in the shop for some time. Other than that I break out the portable propane heater for that quick heat. I was a saw running fool at times.

Yeah. Then for the guy that doesn't have a ton of spare chains you can still do it but don't let the saw eat too fast by pushing. Just let it noodle at the rate the engine can go keeping the RPM's up. Yeah I know. But when there is a old stack that need finish splitting and the split stuff picked pu and stacked. At the same time take care of the truck and the maintenance. Then 3 days a week driving. In my spare time admin at least two web servers. Naw, I've got lots of spare time...

Yeah, I do that a time or two but never heard that term. I did three loads like this 3 years ago and manages to squeak by this last winter. (Mild winter). Now I've got to get this unloaded and proceed to quarter these Hercules rounds up and stack the quarters so it can dry some. Two men and rolling you can get just about anything in this trailer. It's only 16 inches from the deck to the ground.

Completely dry yes. Typical flush and reload come to be 5.0 to 5.5 gallons. Typically the first gallon of coolant goes in straight not mixed. Then all coolant from this point is mixed 50/50. True enough. Being I've had the water test here 3 times since I've been here its very low mineral water. The creek water I've been drinking for years. I've been known to load my RV drinking water with creek water a time or two.

The reason the radiator was removed was the bottom 3-6 inches of the radiator cakes up with dirt. So if I'm splashing through puddles on dirt roads that dirt now dries and hardens closing off a part of the radiator. So about every 100k miles I was pulling it to clean the radiator out. If the radiator was installed then the hose would be in the fill neck, a rag stuffed in the upper neck of the radiator. Then the exit point would be the thermostat hole. You can rev the engine a little to pull the water through everything but it will throw water everywhere. The surge does push through the heater core and other places bringing any heavy material out. Still, you can flush with it but you'll need to drain as much as you can out. The problem with city water is the pH level is already low (acidic from the chlorine) and this exhaust the coolant package for pH stabilizer pretty quickly. So yeah, you are stuck. The point I made is in not the mineral content of the water at all that causes scale build up. Actually, its the pH of the coolant as it oxidizes the metals they turn into blooms on the radiator core tubes.

Running with the thermostat out. If you leave the thermostat in there will be ZERO flow from the upper port. I've NEVER used distilled water ever in my truck. I've used either creek water or well water every time. Been using cheap Walmart SuperTech coolant. No scale build up. I don't use any coolant additives or coolant conditioners. Just standard flush and fill with plenty of water to rinse all debris and low pH coolant out of the block. I run water for at least 10 to 15 minutes with the engine running till it absolutely clear and no foam visible. 255k miles my documented last change. I'm way overdue for a change now.

Just basically a pipe plug. I think its on the driver side of the block.

Stock size truly is 265/75 R16 for the 4WD. 245/75 R16 is for the 2WD. Like @IBMobile is set up with this exact tire size and 4.10 gears on a 47RE transmission. The problem is your beyond your torque curve. You want to float at 2K pulling hills. 2.3 to 2.5 you on the back side of the torque curve. It will create heat. There is something else wrong transmission should never wine or growl. Again most likely pushing too hard pulling that amount of weight. Most likely the strain from the 37" tires have done there deed.