Mopar1973Man

Correct. 14-20 PSI while it's rolling down the pavement. 10-14 is a warning zone. As the pressure falls from 14 PSI down to 10 PSI the overflow valve is closing and returned fuel is being restricted. 10 PSI and lower the overflow valve is closed completely and no return fuel will flow at all from the VP44. This is highly damaging. Just consider fuel pressure like oil pressure if you starve the engine for oil pressure it will wipe out bearings quickly. Same thing for VP44 since the only thing cooling and lubing the pump is return fuel this means you MUST keep pressure above 14 PSI all the time.

Ok. I tell the story... When you doing website administration for other people like "Smartyresource.com" and the owner "Rip Rook @ Source Automotive" ask if there is anything I need. I told yes I need a set of tires for the half ton truck. Then I need the valve seals for the Cummins. All materials delivered as promised. Tires are installed. I'm planning on downing the Cummins to start the head work very soon. Again I wouldn't complain about the brand of tires if some give them free. So now you all know my little secret I have my hands in many websites and you'll set noticing my handy work in the web.

I wish we would of knew that we have vendors with better prices than that. Also, I've been known to teach people how to change injection pumps over the phone. Ask @JAG1 he finally changed his first injection pump this summer. Typically I get a pump for about $1,200 then I charge about $120 to change out the pump being it takes me an average of 2 hours to change them.

When tires are given to you free of charge are you going to whine about brand name? I paid nothing for them. Shipped for free. Even mounted and balanced for free. Seriously would you complain?

It can be blocked on the outside by ash. Typically caused by running waste engine oil, ATF or any lube oil with ash content. Hence 2 cycle oil most of it is ashless here in the states.

You can use 80w-90 in the front to reduce drag. Since 75w-140 is much thicker.

I'm assuming there are differences in the floorboard and mounting. Basically you going to have to make steel blocks for the base of the seats and the use longer bolts. I've seen people retrofit different seats into 1st gens like a friend mounted a Ford bench seat in his 92 Dodge and took a bit of block and bolt work.

Fuel pressure is checked in 3 different states. 1. Idling 2. At highway speed 3. Wide open throttle I only see one number I'm going to assume just idling. Might look OK but you could find out take pump is hitting 0 PSI at WOT. Needs to be 14 PSI at WOT as a minimum.

Not my property. At the point of the black. Is my neighbors property.

I've done the 215s on 1996 Dodge right now I've got to admit it shifts better, hold road speed without lugging at 55 now. MPG seems to be up another 2 or 3 MPG. Better passing power.

When the pop pressure is roughly 4,500 PSI just o start the injector and the VP44 can reach up to somewhere around 20,000 PSI. The best stuff for cleaning injectors is a can of Carb Dip which will strip the carbon right off.

Yeah, that pressure plate is burnt up. Wow! I don't one Kabota tractor in the past and man that is a pain the to get them split and balanced on jack stands.

I'll let you know. I've also got an exhaust brake as well I'm gearing up to start down this project being I've got a set of standard valve seals.

235/85 R16 is the same as 265/75 R16 (31.6 Inches) 215/85 R16 is the same as 245/75 R16 (30.5 inches)

You only need the 75w-140 and friction modifier if you have limited slip rear end. If you have the standard open differential like myself then you want standard 80w-90 gear lube and on friction modifier. Axles should be changed every 30k miles or if the fluid is darken.

Bluetop is vendor on the site you might hop over to his forum and get his phone number and order a kit.

Don't use it. This adjustment most pedal over adjust the pedal and hyper extend the throw out bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate. It not required. I'm still running stock hydro yet with my south bend.

Got to change the hydro boost and power steering pump neither are rated for ATF. It will ruin the seals. 4th gen is ATF system ours is a power steering fluid.

Yes sir... https://mopar1973man.com/forum/149-diesel-auto-power/

Discovery AT3 215/85 R16 on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I'll admit, boy they look skinny. Just even that little bit of size change improved this little 5.9L V8 gas engine. Even the transmission shifts better. This little truck weighs in at about 5,500 pounds roughly rarely tows anything anymore. most of its time on the highway. Rare to be offroad.

Most likely using different pins out of the module. So the different harness most likely using a different pin for early and late series. Like Quadzilla has a jump that you change for either early or late.

More or less yes. The bigger the ratio number is to the ground the more torque and power you can produce to the ground. I wouldn't go any lower than 4.10 as a to the ground ratio. But your example of 285's and 4.10 gears would be just the same. The only loss you have now is you stand taller in the wind so high speed wind drag is your weakness. If you keep you speeds down your losses will be reduced.

Similar tuning where there is a steep fuel curve I'm capable of rolling highway speeds to build boost very rapidly and have the axle wrap up under the truck and the tires let go.

Like @Me78569 said it the voltage values that are different. Pins are not the problem. Really common back in the day for people to buy a used Edge Comp or Edge Juice (early) and start cutting plugs off and attempting to wire in the early MAP plug. The voltage values are so bad that the tuner doesn't work like it was design because all the feedback data is incorrect. This is why I agree with @Me78569 and would rather see you buy the right series for your truck than hack the plugs into place.

Won't work. Because of the voltage differences. You'll have to get the right unit for that style of MAP sensor.