Mopar1973Man

Ah... PCM is not seeing any communication from the ECM. Double check the two connectors to the cowl. The CCD bus is in one of them. Remember PCM is the primary computer and the ECM is the companion module. This will aid you in testing the APPS wiring.

Just talked to my buddy @Taz in McCall as of 10pm last night they didn't really see any rainfall at all. He said a few drops hit the windshield of his truck but mostly dry. He informed me 2 new fires started down in the Cambridge, ID area last night. I'm not sure of the state of those fires or did the local FD catch them before going wild. Then there is @Evan with 10 new fires in Mountain Home, ID area. Don't look like we gare going to get much slack till the rains really come on and snow flies.

Key fob? (Security system locking out), ASD relay issues? (Check for error codes)

https://www.dieselautopower.com/airdog-150gph-air-fuel-separation-system-a4spbd004 Full kit you can call and verify. The only thing I don't like on these is the quick connect fitting that may leak air. Some of us have called Vulcan performance and converted back to old school push lock fittings.

No. It will help with longevity. The whole idea is to keep pushing high volume of cooled fuel through the VP44 pump to keeping the pump cooled and lubricated. If you figure the average VP44 temperature on a 100*F day is about 130-140*F you need to keep it fed with lots of fresh cool fuel. The fuel tank naturally heats up too because of the amount of returned fuel from the head. As long as flow is high the VP44 lives for a very long time. My last VP44 went 243k miles when the timing piston got stuck in full advancement. (P0216) 4 ways to kill a VP44... 1. Low fuel pressure. 14-20 PSI is optimal. 2. Poor filtration. This is why I suggest the double stacking of the filters. 3. AC noise. Excessive AC noise will fry the ECM and PSG on the VP44. 4. Poor lubrication. Today fuel in the US is 520 HFRR, Bosch requires 460 HFRR or less.

ECM is booted if the light comes on instantly with the key. So I'm wondering if you have an air leak in the fuel system and losing prime. It common to have suction side leaks that never drip or leak fuel. Bad crossover o-rings will make it hard starting. Banjo bolt at the bad of the head if the sealing washers fail it could cause starting issues. What's your fuel pressure during cranking? Does it rise to cranking pressure and pulse up and down normally or does it sit at zero for long period before jumping up? Security feature might play a role and prevent starting that would be the PCM more so. Do you have a key fob?

We were downgraded from 3 to 2 by about 2pm yesterday. I was never even paged out to get a truck or do anything the fire is still 3 miles back in the backcountry and long ways from homes yet. Here is what the whole evac was about is Hillman basin road they figure the winds were going to be 40-50 MPH out of the west and the storm would push it down on the homes in this area. But its still along ways away as of this morning. Funny part I measured only gusts of 10 MPH and average wind of 4 MPH. I also chewed out one of the managers of the fire for this needless callout of evac. They admitted it was handled wrong and the wrong area called out for evac. Last night with @JAG1 on the phone about 9pm we started our lightning storm (dry). Very wicked looking cloud to cloud lighting running back and forth across the canyon. Then out of nowhere, it started to pour rain dumping at a rate of 2 inches an hour. Managed to measure out 0.5 inches after the storm stopped. Sad to say the valley filled back up with smoke this morning but I know the fire been knocked down by this rain storm hopefully US Forest Circus don't pass up this change of catching this fire and putting it to bed.

Umm... That ground is here... This is the important one! All the other grounds are rather meaningless subsystems. (lights, horn, etc) You might do the ground wire mod and never look back to this problem again.

Does the wait to start light come on instantly? Does the light come on after a small delay? If the wait to start light doesn't come on the ECM is not booted up and the VP44 and lift will not power up.

No. Problem is they spend lot of time dead heading and this is hard on the pumps. This why the Raptor series fail quickly typically. Now the AirDog 150 like I've got has a 3 hose return line that allows the pump to continue pumping freely without dead heading. Typically you burn rate is about 2 to 3 GPH and you've got 150 GPH pump pushing where is the 147 GPH going? Raptor is dead heading and AirDog 150 is returning to the fuel tank.

Maybe they are upgraded bolt that is longer. You might call your supplier and ask them there was changes to bolt lengths.

High volume pumps have better pressure stability. So 95 GPH pump will have larger pressure swings. Like I'm around 400 HP realm and only have a 2 PSI swing from idle to WOT to 100 MPH. If you opt for a 95 GPH pump you might see 5 to 7 PSI swings. Simply. If your supply volume is greater than your demand volume the pressures do not fall much. Then if the demand volume out weighs the supply volume the the pressure falls. So if your looking for VP44 longevity then you need to keep above 14 PSI all the time. My AirDog 150 hold 17 at idle and 15 PSI at WOT. 95 GPH is good for true stock and no towing. No tuner. Stock injectors. Just stock daily driver.

Yes but the voltmeter has to have a 2V or 20mV AC option. If you volt meter only has like 200V option then it's not going to work. If the volt meter responds with a 29 to 31 volts its too cheap of a meter. Typically a good DVM around $100 buck will do it. Like I've got a old Fluke 75 which can measure multi-frequency down in the mV range AC.

AirDog 150 or FASS 150 is most likely the cheapest option. Any kind of direct replacement pump is not going to work. The problem is all the banjo bolts and stock 6mm (0.23622 in) fuel line needs to go away. All fuel system kits change over to full 1/2" from the fuel tank to the injection pump. Then with the Airdog or FASS and a Big Lin Kit from Vulcan you can keep the stock filter which now allows for double filtering of the fuel. This extends my filter life so far to 60k miles per filter change.

Just checking on https://inciweb.nwcg.gov not listed as of yet. Hang in there...

More than like a cause is excessive AC noise. Test the alternator for AC voltage and report back. If the alternator is failing or marginal then you'll want to replace the alternator. After the alternator is replaced, I would suggest you do the W-T ground mod. Then if this is too confusing I've got my simple version of the article.

Yeah, the economy is doing so good then why did my bank close up all the local branches? Now I've got to drive 125 miles one way just to deal with a check. (Ugh!) You do call 50 million times. But you enjoy it...

There are a few members here that did the p-pump conversion but all I can say is the truck is no longer really daily drivable. Most of them after conversion end up buying another truck because of issues. Some of them sold the truck shortly after words. Some have parked them because of too much trouble for excessive smoke. I would highly suggest keeping the VP44 for daily driver being the Quadzilla tuner give a full range of timing control and fuel control. With the p-pump conversion, you lose all dynamic timing for static timing. Then there are other things like my truck is a fly by wire cruise control you would lose that function. There is nothing to gain with a p-pump. Now if you planning on dyno queen or quarter-mile track star. I'd say go for it. P-pump it. They do fuel more than a VP44 but you only need to make a quarter mile at a time.

I consider myself in a good spot. Just north of me, the fire burned all the way down the mountain. The only thing is the 100-foot embankment behind the housing that is a possible concern. Now I was smart last night I fired up the sprinklers and water the yard really well. Now I just moved my sprinklers up on the mountain. There is one sprinkler behind the guest house / shop that is covering nearly 75-foot circle that reaches the front edge of the roof. I've got another sprinkler behind the main house and it's covering the full width of the house and slightly hitting the roof. Then one more down by my generator shed which has 100 gallons of diesel and gasoline (Ekk). 4th sprinkler down at my waste pond to give the firefighter a shot of using the pond for backup water if needed. I'm in good shape.

Battening down the hatches.... Stag 3 Evacuation orders given as of yesterday. In other words, LEAVE NOW! I'm staying!!! I'm going to hold the fort with MoparMom and Myself. Dry Lightning storm rolling in right now and going to have high winds 40-50 MPH winds out of the west. Basically, it could push the fire right back on us pretty quickly. https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/5999/

I feel the love @JAG1 ...

Well my Linux Server skills are getting well known in certain circles and people finding out I can do some fantastic things on Linux OS systems. Ask @IBMobile about his screw up here on the website. You find out he "deleted" my fire thread by accident and was able to recover the thread while standing in WinCo shopping with him on my cellphone took less than 30 seconds to fix. Being I've put in a lot of hours doing custom modification to SmartyResource.Com I ask to trade the work in parts and not a paycheck. BAM! it happened. Tires, seals, etc. You'd be surprised of all the connections I've got with different people and business. Trying to recover from the hijack... Back to the OP if you looking to get tires to break loose on command it like @Me78569 said you need the fuel to come hard and fast. The timing needs to dip low get the turbo to spool fast but recover to high timing quick to keep feeding the fuel to it.

Dual disc is typically for 550 HP and up. Talked to Peter at South Bend as well on this and shift behavior is a bit different. Single disc typically performs better. Like I'm on my second Con OFE clutch and no issues towing or exhaust brake usage. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/258-south-bend-ofe-clutch/

Might ask @Me78569 his on the quest of 4th gen info now that his an owner.

Wire tapping is exactly that, you are tapping the fuel solenoid lead. This allows the Quadzilla direct control of the fuel solenoid. I'm using a Stealth plate. This plate taps the wire for you. Here is a standard scotch-lock wire tap which typically is a poor method. Fuel Stretch you taking the CANBus fuel pulse that is being delivered to the solenoid (square wave) now your going to stretch the square ware pulse out say 1,800 us more. Making the VP44 fuel harder and longer. Hence the power increase.