Mopar1973Man

245's will put you close to the 3.73 ratios (3.69:1) without changing the gears. With the 245's with 3.55 rear gears 66 MPH is a perfect 2k on the tach. Then at 80 MPH your at 2,400 on the tach.

Brake clean is safe. Just make sure the engine can inhale that brake clean by disconnecting the discharge turbo. Allow it to fully dry before hooking up and starting. Also, have to remember if the dust went through the turbo how much that is in the discharge tube and in the intercooler.

I hope you cleaned up that turbo before installing. Need to pull the discharge line and then take brake cleaner and clean all that dust residue off the compressor wheel. Remember that shaft spins are insanely fast RPM's. Little bit of dust can cause an imbalance which puts more wear on the turbo bearings and seals. So far with everything I've done to my truck I've never had a filter distort on the inside as of yet.

No illuminated may be used on any control circuits. It has to be a normal ON/OFF switch no light or LED. This was a common problem with people building my high idle kit back in the past they attempted to power the light switch with the 5V from the sensor but screwed the system because the ECM could see the LED load and current flow causing errors to be thrown. Buy a standard ON/OFF (SPST) and use that.

Still just about 150 feet from deck to the black. Straight up on top.

Ask @trreed about his shower head nozzles...

RWAL or 4 wheel ABS?

Those will work good. I just made a run slamming 45 PSI of boost and tore the rear tires loose.

Ask @hex0rz about the injector change I did on his truck. He ran the 5 hours from Sandpoint, ID show up here at 7pm and I change all 6 injectors in about 1 hour hot. Don't suggest it...

Agreed...

Funny... The only thing that hit my bumper is one deer after my first year of ownership. Then the last month nothing but hitting birds and grouse. Every one of those HD bumpers out there are super heavy and I personally think are going to add to the front axles issues and steering issues with the added weight. Then with oversized tires making the problem worse too.

PIAA LED Fog or driving light are STREET LEGAL. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx This is what I'm running they are actually brighter than my Morimoto D2S HID's.

Just for the sake of the topic. I found the specs in the FSM.

Best bang was what I installed is the ISSPro EV2 series. It USB programmable. Bit more pricey but comes with low pressure light, adjustable back lighting, adjustable needle reaction speed, even adjustable optional relay.

@IBMobile has the best mystery switch setup. You might want to look at his design.

I'm doing my slight changes to see if there is gains or losses above or below spec. Visibly there is loses with slightly tight valves that I now can see with being 2 thousandths tight than normal on hot days. I'm going to back down to 2 thousandths wide. Even though Cummins states a wide range of operational lash 0.006 to 0.015 intake (Stated 0.010) 0.015 to 0.030 exhaust (Stated 0.020) These are considered OK ranges according to Cummins specs.

I use the red grease that you typically find in WalMart. Been good this far...

Like I'm running 14, 17, 20, 23, 26 for timing. Then cruise timing is plus 3 with load limit of 30% right now. Bouncing 18 to 20 MPG. Those 34 inch tires are not helping. I'm getting ready to drop 31 inch tires for 30 inch tires. Better gear ratio and power.

Double check the two connectors at the valve cover on the cowling. There is a CCD data bus there. Double check your passenger side grounds being the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44 runs across the front of the engine to the ECM.

Neat idea. I'll have to pick up one from HF to toss in the tool box.

Well, that what I thought too. It actually the spot welds break free and the tone wheel spins or the tone wheel is too far from the sensor. Still to fix mine was to replace the right side wheel bearing to resolve the issue.

I never torque it that much. Since the ball end is tapered just need enough to seat the taper snug so it can move. Then cotter key the nut in place. The bushing end I quit running down that tight after the salt and mud sets in the bolt get rather stubborn to get back out after 200k miles. Everything is tight but not overkill. My problem is I do get the mileage out of ball joints and track bars and normal don't change them but every 150k to 200k miles. The last one I replaced (NAPA) I tighten everything super tight and fought like hell to get it back apart. Nature's thread locker had set in. (Rust!) Then the ball stud didn't want to come out even with a 6-pound sledge and pickle fork.

I found an awesome website that is legal MP3's. Just do a search for the song title. If the song is out on Youtube it will converter the song from Youtube to an MP3 for you and download. This makes it really nice for grabbing a few new songs for your trips in the morning. https://www.mp3juices.cc/

I even sell that kit in my store.