Mopar1973Man

Be careful there... ECM software there is roughly 53 different versions of software out there. Don't randomly just buy an ECM. Then there is change up like cam and crank sensors to just cam sensor (which actually is the crank sensor when you look at pin numbers). Software wise there was differences between automatics and manuals. Then I've found some versions of ECM software not all compatible with all years of PCM's. Remember the PCM is the primary computer and the ECM is secondary! If it came down to ECM replacement I would suggest one of the rebuilder over risky buying of someone else ECM that may or may not work for you! Battery cables. I would just rebuild the ends with fresh military terminals and copper lugs soldered to the cable.

Can't do a prime cycle after the engine has been ran. Turn the key off wait 30 seconds. This allows the ECM to fully shut down. Now bump the starter. It should run the 25 seconds. If the engine has ran for any length of time the prime cycle is locked out. This prevents the ECM from running the prime cycle during a vehicle accident. That could be air in the fuel possibly. What is your fuel pressure like? Does the fuel pressure snap to pressure instantly or does it slowly rise up? You may just have a suction air leak and pulling air into the system but we need to know what you fuel pressure is like during these times. Here watch a video I made...(Kind of old) Watch the first crank cycle you'll hear the air bubble get to the lift pump then the pressure falls right off. This was as a suction air leak. This why I re-did the second time because now you can see the 50% duty cycle of the ECM pulsing the lift pump. The P1689 code could be caused by a bad fuel pump relay (no power to the VP44). Again ECM that is braindead will not pulse the lift pump at all nor will the VP44 fire up.

So now are you willing to jack up your truck every spring and repack the front bearings? This means washing out the old grease and inspecting the rollers and the race. Then hand packing the bearing again. Then set the preload of the bearing. I'm going to assume it like my old 1972 Dodge were you going to need a custom socket for getting the nuts of the spindles. Then there is some sort of locking tab or pin. These wear out too so will you be able to get replacement lock? Then the mechanical locking hubs. I remember blowing up 2 sets on my 1972 Dodge 250. First set of Warn hubs snapped them like aluminum junk. The second set I broke pulling a logs downhill and left me hanging. I had to be towed off the hill to get the log off me. The chain was pulled tight and couldn't free myself. Something about unit bearing. No locking hubs to mess with, no bearings to pack with grease, no parts to inspect, they last at least 150k miles. Like myself, I need to jack up my truck and quick inspection of the bearings for roughness or looseness.

Well, I would check for error codes first after the IOD fuse is replaced. IAT sensor errors (hi or lo volt codes) might play a role in the light issues. P0381 code basically, in a nutshell, is an error for wiring to the WTS light which may be present. On warm summers days it doesn't take much for keeping the WTS light to a very short bulb test. Now if the WTS light doesn't come on the engine will not start or run at all. This would be a sign of the ECM failure because the very first instruction is to light the WTS light up and check grid heaters. If the ECM doesn't boot up, the power relay will not turn on for the VP44 or turn on the lift pump will not power up either.

Something to keep in mind. I've got my OEM Injectors yet in a box. I've kept them around for fallback injectors for just in case moments where I would need to change injectors for some reason. Finally, I sent them into DAP for pop testing and learn a bunch from just having them tested. Normal range is 293 bar (4,250 psi) to 327 bar (4,750 psi). My OEM injectors where popping as low as 240 bar (3,480 psi) the atomization was poor and getting more or less like a squirt gun effect going. Larger droplets and just overall poor fuel spray. The funny part is they still work fine show no signs of performance issue other than MPG's off just a little bit. The only way you going to diagnose this issue properly is pop testing. IR gun will tell you if one isn't work ing right. Still, in all, you have to pull all 6 injectors so they can be pop tested and flow matched again. There is nothing you can do where you just pull one injector and hope for a first.

Welcome to the family! There is no such thing as dumb questions so ask away.

Valid advise.

Missed one. The IOD fuse. Has the little Yellow cover. Flip the lid open and pull the fuse out. IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse is blown for sure its the one that does the doom lights, radio, OBDII port etc. Pull the alternator and have it bench tested. Make sure they test for ripple AC voltage. Two things cover the positive cables with engine oil they will never rot again. Then the only reason why the acid on to like that either the batteries are over charging or the batteries are damaged. So again here we are testing the alternator again and the batteries. Since the PCM can't detect AC voltage charging it can stack up on the charging.

While you all whine about unit bearings I'm going to drive the crap out of my truck.

So true...

Twins? Personally, I would just buy a plate... https://www.dieselautopower.com/the-adjuster-by-attitude-optional-fuel-profile-5

You can't... What you lose... Cruise control Speedometer ECM ability to cancel grid heaters. Way too many things wrapped around the ABS computer to ditch. Nothing gained. The driveshaft doesn't take that much to spin free. Even the CAD unit front axles don't gain that much over solid lock axle.

Pull them out and have them pop tested. That is the only for sure way. You'll never be able to test for pop pressure or spray pattern issues unless you pull them and have them tested.

The charging system is extremely simple. Green wire is a variable ground controlled by the PCM. Blue wire is a key 12V lead. So if the fuse is cracked it could randomly charge and then quit. I've seen weird things happen with fuses cracking and not blowing out.

Like myself, I got home to thick fires smoke and going to get worse tonight. Then tomorrow I've got to fly up to the Fire Chief's place and help him work on fire trucks and get repairs done. If I can't play on the fire then I'll volunteer time with the fire dept. Keep all our tools in working order and ready at the drop of the hat.

Call DAP and talk to them. I'm sure they will make it right.

HX35 can run 35 PSI with boost elbow installed. EGT might be a bit lower with that 12cm2 housing compared to the 9cm2 housing on the HY35

Now you got to ask why did the alternator fail? Bad cables or weak batteries can too. So if you don't want to have never ending loop of changing alternator you might want to service this stuff. Grid heaters can cause the failure too by starting and idling excessively.

The old 70s Mopar stuff was the same way plastic bushing that snapped on. Typically had same dab white lithium grease.

You'd be better off upgrading turbos. HX35W is bit better. Still I would take care of that weak link called a 47RE stock transmission. You might talk to @Dynamic he's our site transmission guru.

Funny part my old Edge Comp was a very smoky tuner. Using a set distance and acceleration between two points I found the Quadzilla better tuner being it could get the fuel when I needed it and not before. So now to break this down for 12V tuning you would need to find a plate with a proper profile that fuel at the right time plus having the AFC housing adjusted properly and releasing when the engine needed it. Like myself with 7 x 0.0085 injectors I start out with a fuel limited to 80% to get the spool clean. On my performance tune I start at 90% fuel which spools faster but with smoke till spooled. 90% is about all my HX35/40 hybrid can take on launching. Beyond that it all smoke and not extra power is gain but also might be lost being its possible to blow the fire out with excessive fuel and not enough fuel. (extreme...)

Governmental Regards...

Might be true but inefficient at power usage. Like myself, I replaced my refrigerator and was shocked with how little power the new refrigerator took to run. Then I've got an old heavy cube glass CRT TV and that boat anchor need to go. That thing takes a ton of power to run. Then my new flat screen takes so little power that my inverter has a hard time even seeing the TV turn out. So they might last forever but upgrading might outweigh the loss...

The bad part is that the sludge will be high in the gearbox and most likely require a full disassmebly to remove the sludge from the gearbox. This is why you need to keep up on the fluid flushing and not worry much about the filtering. Just like engine oil if you leave it too long it will sludge up the engine. The only way to clean the engine up is fully disassembly. Oil filters still won't remove the sludge.