Mopar1973Man

I'm getting ready to send my OEM stock injectors in and get new nozzles and popped on the high side 310 to 315 bar. Closing in on 100k miles on these 7 x0.0085 injectors.

Synthetic oil are not required. Most of the big milestone guys are strictly petroleum oils. I suggest you get the oil pressure tested.

Finally, I'll be looking into replacing the power steering pump. Not that it quit pumping. The reservoir is leaking. The seal between the pump body and reservoir can is weeping fluid out and leaving signs of power steering fluid on the floor after a night.

All I can say is call and ask.

Standard greasable NAPA U-Joint (SKF)

Truth...

Curious what ratio are you running?

@Dieselfuture I'm the same way I normally have my Maglite LED flashlight on my right side of my belt. It's part of my daily dress code. I carry a flashlight in the door pocket of my truck. So I'm typically well covered for light. I like the LED idea because now your hands are free and the light is provided.

Done...

Finally got a hold of @War Eagle and we found the article for the lighting...

Yes. That is an option just don't get carried away with water pressure. Then pull the tubing off the pump bottom to drain the reservoir. If you're in a hurry you could turn the key on push the wash button till its empty.

Might be easier to just replace the entire exhaust with a new kit. Unknown if you can get the right tail section for length and everything without seeing the existing system and what you've got.

LMC truck is correct. There is actually two versions of that seal really. The one you seal where its just a foam rubber seal and then there is a second version that has a conceal flap that hangs down to conceal the wiring along the cowl.

Washer reservoir is a PITA to pull. There is two dimples of plastic that you have to use 2 flat blade screwdrivers to get released then you can slide it up off the fan shroud. Then you can clean out your bottle and fix any issues you might have.

MacroDroid... Look it up on Google Play. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid&hl=en_US It might help you solve that problem.

In Idaho... Yes. Just make sure to club that sucker one more time before loading it up in the back seat.

Again pull the Edge juice off you might find a different answer. It's been known to cause issues if the boost fooler shorts out. First ditch the Edge Juice clear your codes again then see if the codes return if not the Edge Juice is damaged.

It suppose to dump out rear of the passenger side rear tire.

For the testing purposes disconnect the Edge Juice completely. This way we can rule out the Edge Juice causing the issue or not.

Heck I'll one up you then... I Armor-All'ed my dash, vacuum the carpet, cleaned the glass, and degreased the engine and transmission. I should be good for another +1 MPG. Eh?

Back in the day everything was a canned tune. Edge Comp was the best bang for the buck without all the Edge Juice toys. Color touch screen, same canned tunes, and few extra defueling toys added. Then Once DAP bought Quadzilla and Spencer got it going the whole crowd jumped ship because final no longer stuck to canned tunes. Now you could upgrade to bigger injectors and have a smoke free truck without much effort.

He's starting the downhill slide... Modification bug bit him...

The other trick I know is to use the newer single beam wiper blades. I typically replace wiper blade twice a year in the spring and in the fall. I've used both Bosch and RainX brand wipers. The single beam design tend to get equal pressure across the entire length of wiper blade. I'm pretty sure stock was 19" wiper blades. Most might list them as 20" wiper blade which is a nice upgrade too.

I would most likely change that up just slightly. I would use an SPDT switch. Compressor lead to the center contact, ground on one outer and then the other outer would have the HVAC dash switch lead. So in one position is factory mode (operates like it was designed) then the flip of the switch compressor is forced on regardless. Then if you do a center off styled switch then you would have forced off position as well. One toggle switch with so many capabilities.

Being your 100k miles ahead of me you might take the time and check them. Just more or less just push and pull the links to see if they move or have slack.