Mopar1973Man

Actually I just seat the filter cap nothing more.

I've alerted the Source Resource gang... Hopefully someone can give you a hand...

The one on the left was the old school NAPA I use to get all the time. Now the one on the right is what the new NAPA thermostats look like now.

Do a bit of study work on your gearing it will impact everything about the truck. Optimal gear ratio for the street would be a 3.73 to the ground. Highway running or interstate you're going to want a final ratio of 3.55 to keep the RPM's down. Below this is too tall of a gear ratio. If you going to invest the big money on gears you better of figure out exactly what you going to want.

Then that lid is tightened too darn tight you going to have to force or break it. Then you'll have to replace it. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-cummins-fuel-filter-cap-with-fuel-pressure-test-port-lt-59fuelcap/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts https://www.genosgarage.com/product/drm904301/fuel-caps

It a complete tool like the Mopar DRBIII tool. Just it works off the CANBus and not the OBDII port.

Need to know some things... Fuel pressure - Idle, cruising at highway and WOT at highway. AC voltage from the alternator Use a 6 sided socket this won't happen. 12 sided sockets tend to only grab the outer points.

Yeah, I know it... Gotta to stay within the budget...

0 = Stock ECM 1 = Valet Mode 2 = Zero to 100% CANBus fuel 3 = Full CANBus 4 through 11... Depending on the tune set up this just divides the wiretap up. So if the default tune is set with 15 levels then that means each level 4 and up is 10% of the wiretap. Like I'm running 8 levels. So each level in my tune is just 25% of wiretap each step.

Basically you have to verify your wiring. Then you might have to verify the ECM. If you can get Cummins Insite you might be able to read the errors on the CANBus.

I think its time to consider rebuilding the UI / UX for the iQuad app again. There is a minor issue like this. How about the Eq Sliders. You're trying to see where the slider land in the green or red zone but you can't see that because the slider is right over the break of the red and green. The trip reset should be just a button, not an on/off switch. iQuad app should remember your last screen position instead of panning to it every time. Might be time for a bit of software tweaking on the iQuad app.

CCD Network is where you typically read error codes from the ECM. Take note there is the plugs on the cowl that hook the ECM to the PCM. Then there is the master plug in the PDC that has the CCD network into the cab.

If so still verify the alternator again then do the W-T ground mod. That ground is at the driver side kick panel most likely. Disconnect both end and measure ohm from end to end of each wire with both ends disconnected. This should show 0 ohms.

Yes. If the WTS issue is present you need to do two things... Have the alternator test for excessive AC noise and replaced if failing. Then you can send your ECM for repairs and reinstall it in the truck.

I would look towards the Vulcan boots. I'm running set and never blew one off even with boost pressures up to 45 PSI. No issues to report.

Here is all the power distribution.

Just might want to read the fuel tank thread... Sumps are not a good idea at all.

Everyone always claimed the VP44 was limited to a mere 600 HP. After seeing a few videos like these where even modified VP44's playing in the 1,000 HPbracket was really cool to see finally.

Right here... https://mopar1973man.com/classifieds/category/7-vehicles/

Simple solution. When I do my coolant flush on my trucks I leave the thermostats out during the flushing. Then after the system is drained out. Then I close the drain cock and then proceed to fill the block back up with coolant mixture till it just about to run out the thermostat hole. Now install the thermostat and finish filling the cooling system. Now there is nothing left to burp out of the system because its full now.

Pull one fuse at a time and measure the amperage draw. When you find the circuit with the high draw you know what you have to deal with. Basically, put your meter on DC Amp and pull a fuse and then touch the probes to the contacts of the fuse place you just pulled. This will measure the current draw for that circuit.

I'll tag @Dynamic and get him in here he'll know the answer to this puzzle.

I knew they existed.

Funny... From 2003 on up with the Ford steering boxes and ATF system required a cooler. But now 1989 to 2002 was a power steering fluid and didn't come with a cooler. Make you think a second. I'm at 354k miles still no issue with heat even driving 3 hours every other day. Just change fluid twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall.

The final ratio to the ground is too low. Change the axle gearing and all your EGT's will go away. either run 4.10 or 4.56 gears. Right now your final ratio to the ground is 3.00:1 which is way too tall and the truck is struggling to pull along. I've already done the study work on tires and ratio impact. On my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I when from 235's to 215's which is a 30.5-inch tire and now gain more power to the ground and at least +2 MPG. On my truck next I'll be going from 235's to 245's which again is a 30.5-inch tire but it will take my final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 and during my temporary test run I gain more pulling power, lowered my EGT's and transmission temperatures. Optimal for 3.55 gears is 30 to 31-inch tires. On 4.10 gear 35-inch tires would be optimal. So if you want lower EGT's and better running truck you are looking at 2 choices... Go back to 31-inch tires to restore the final ratio. Shell out the $4,000 for ring gear sets and have installed.