Mopar1973Man

I've got a solution that is even better. This stuff makes the water bead up and blow off the glass. I typically find that I leave the wipers off more than actually run them. Even the smallest drops will roll right off the glass. Even in a good downpour most of the water blows off the glass at highway speeds.

Currently on the clock at 354k miles. Yeah, they lasted pretty darn long time.

I don't suggest that. This potentially can lead to overheating. I've actually had that happen this why I will not cover the face of the intercooler or the radiator. I will cover the grill this allows the fan to lock when needed to pull air through the intercooler and the radiator without any concern. Like my current weather starting to dip down to the 30's for the morning but can rise well into the 90's by afternoon. With a grill covers you can actually still drive with 80*F temps without any issues and not have to constantly remove and install the winter front because of fluke warm day. Typically I install my grill covers by October and leave them in all winter till April.

Bit over glorified for brand names really but the ideas are sound. The other thing is the knowledge we have here makes some of the suggestions obsolete. Like Edge Comp vs Quadzilla I would say Quadzilla would be a better tuner. Boost elbows typically come with the tuner. Then there is the one from China that @IBMobile found. Fuel supply that is a wide topic being you have AirDog, FASS and mechanical pumps now. 4" inch exhaust nothing to brag about like I ran 3" for years without any issues with EGT's. Gauges are just a good requirement to have. Injectors another wide topic to discuss depending on what you're after more MPG or Performance. Turbos another wide range of topic depending on the driver purpose of power will dictate what type of turbo to use. Cold Air Intakes another topic that is rather wide. Washable filters as poor as they are but then the claims of making the air colder doesn't seem to always pan out. Being I just found you can make IAT -10*F colder by changing your thermostat. Most of used the BHAF for years without little to no problem. Guys that live up here in the cold north are looking for a bit of warm air for the intake with temperatures down to -30*F. Hot Rod pumps LOL... At least just a hot rod pump on a stock truck produces a mere +21 HP. Most that are in the big power goal go for the P-pump more so. If you wanting big fuel for a VP44 there are the dragon fire pumps. Most can get at least 600 HP from just a plain old SO VP44 pump. Exhaust manifold most here will suggest sticking with the factory manifolds there are no gains really to the 3 piece ones.

The power connection in the trailer plug is the charge lead typically if the RV is hooked up. Even though that lead has a 40 Amp fuse it won't flow any more than the batteries will take. If the batteries need 5 amp that all they will take. The only way to increase this charge rate is to up the voltage the current will rise. Being the charging system is only going to provide 13.5 to 14.5 volts typically I really doubt there will be any serious gains to charge rate with 2/0 cables. Now for a winch and the heavy load and voltage loss in travel of the wire. Yeah, you might need heavier cable but even 2/0 seems to be overkill. Just checking the voltage loss with 2/0 cable at 25 feet with 160 amp load DC is 0.62 volts. From searching the internet they are saying on average 160 amp at full load for a 2,500 pound winch. Even at 2 AWG would only be 1.25 volt loss. Again I don't expect you to be running right to the margin of the winch.

All I use is just plain old engine oil. Still got my factory OEM cables and terminal and never had corrosion issues. I'll never use grease way too messy and attracts too much dirt. Engine oil you can rinse off with power washer but the oil film will continue to protect the terminals. Grease you.'ll end up on your arms and clothing.

WarEagle article was a pair of bar LEDs mounted near the grill so when the hood was opened the under hood switch turn on the power then the LEDs were already pointed at the engine. Would someone be willing to farm out a new article?

@War Eagle did a write up for LED under hood lighting. Sad the pictures are all gone. Photobucket policy change.

Personally I'm not a fan of slotted rotors. I would have the rotors checked for run out. I'm going to guess the rotors are deforming at the slots where there are the thinnest and weakest. Little heat and now the knocking starts. Changing rotors and pads are disturbing the problem to go away for a short time. If it is possible to get standard non slotted rotors I going to bet the problem will be gone.

I'm pretty sure it's a mercury switch.

Well, gang, I've been getting a rear end clank for some time typically as a released the clutch. Then the last trip to Ontario, OR I detected small vibration. I figured its just got to be a U-joint. While I was in Ontario, OR I picked up two U joints since not too long ago I did the post about changing the rearmost u-joint without dropping the driveshaft. Now after replacing the middle and forward u-joint I did find that both u-joints were in a serviceable condition somewhat. I did find the middle u-joint had roller bearing wear marks in the trunion and created just enough slack that I could detect the vibration. Sad but true I still had the clank. Now after checking again, I found the clank. The end links of the rear sway bar are starting to fail. The passenger side end link is actually loose and the driver side is OK but I can sense a bit of looseness on the driver side.

Not really. I would most likely say if the wipers are getting slow most likely the wiper motor is getting worn out.

Possible the sensor ground is shorted to sensor ground? Is there any APPS wiring mods? As for the P0123 code... Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Return Circuit Open APPS Signal Circuit Open From APPS To ECM APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Open PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted To Voltage With The Engine Running PCM (APPS) Short To Voltage With Ignition Key On APPS Open Between PCM And ECM Open APPS Circuit Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module

I've thought about getting my CDL just to have but all the requirements now not worth it for me. Being Fire Dept is exempt from CDL license requirements I can drive anything I wish. I've had good track record with the Fire Dept and still to this day no accidents. I've taken 4,000-gallon water tender places it really shouldn't be. Trust me you can grow a set of teeth in that hind end really fast on a mountain dirt road.

Might want to PM @IBMobile he's got an idea on grid heater control switch without tossing errors and allowed you to control of your grid heater.

Time to replace the APPS sensor. Make sure to get a Timbo's APPS and don't try to adjust the voltage. This could be what you've done with voltage adjustment.

That top adjustment you don't mess with. The up / down adjustment is on the bottom near the bumper. The one in the close up blur is the left to right adjustment.

The problem... 99% of people panic at highway speed and grab the brakes when a tire blows. The proper thing to do is to apply throttle to stabilize the direction before slowing down. Take notice in this video you can clearly see the tire blowout and the driver automatically stomped the breaks and the truck went right into the ditch just like the previous video showed. As he stomped the brakes the new direction was created and the truck went right into the ditch and rolled over killing the driver.

Is exhaust brake sticking shut partially?

As much is it nice to be able to jump on interstate and roll 75 to 85 MPH I think that this sure be revisited by the NTSB and consider dropping these speed limits back down. When you have 80,000-pound truck having a sudden failure on a steer axle there isn't much margin for an 80,000-pound truck and driver to make good choices and keeping people safe. Trust me I understand the feeling of an 80,000-pound truck I drive water tender for my local fire dept. That truck is at its margins for weight as is. Once you get that much weight rolling it takes some time to stop all that moving mass. I don't care how good you think you are of a driver or how good your truck is still the laws of physics kick in and you can only stop so fast. Faster you travel the longer it takes to stops.

Go to a dark street or road. Now cover one headlight with blanket or jacket. Now the screw in the upper corners towards the radiator is left to right. The screw down at the bumper is up and down. Now adjust the headlight on low beam.

That's my worry with 180F thermostat. The EGTs are much lower idling in 35F weather. Engine temp sank to 177F I would be concerned with tar issues on the valves in the dead of winter.

Hmmm.... High idle kit, gauges, Quadzilla power, themometer, etc pass through that boot. Most likely more but forgot what.

Wow that's a mess.

I kind of screwed up tonight. I was thinking about getting fuel for the truck and find out what the MPG on 180*F thermostat would be, then drove right on by the fuel station. Shocking enough I've got enough fuel yet to turn around and return to Ontario, OR. I'm right about needle width below 1/2 tank (18.x gallons used). I was kind of shocked at the IAT temps watching closely for the day. City stop and go it would average +40*F or so over outside. Once I was on the highway making a bit of boost the IAT fell to about +30*F over outside. Coming home once the temperature started to cool towards 70*F it started inching its way into the high +20*F and swinging back to +30 offset. So I'll get fuel tomorrow so I'm not running around on fumes for the weekend. My old 190*F thermostats always produced at least 160*F air from the center vents. I've been doing the standard hand math vs what data feed I get from the Quadzilla.