Mopar1973Man

No such sensor exist on the VP44. From the Dodge FSM book.

At the most a crank seal. The gear case I'm pretty sure is like the 2nd Gens has no gasket and just grey silicone. No real parts to order a local part house should have all this in stock. The only thing that has oil is the gear case in front.

P0606 is an ECM failure. Passenger side battery is the ground for the ECM. The if the alternator has bad diodes then the AC noise will produce the P0606 code from AC voltage damage to the ECM. I highly suggest... Replace both batteries. Have the alternator tested on a test stand for AC ripple Replace all battery cable that is damaged. Do the @W-T ground wire mod. Clear the codes and see if the P0606 comes back.

Standard NAPA track bar. I don't buy into the premium junk.

Yes, replace it. I bought an Autozone track bar being low on funds. I was shocked to find the AutoZone track bar was a sealed unit and figured that the ball end would fail first. Nope. The rubber end failed and it was pulling the bolt back and forth. Once replaced it with NAPA track bar the steering was tight once again.

On 3rd gens there is so little room compared the earlier 2nd gen. I know on the second gens you can do the crank seal and gear case without pulling the front apart. As for the 3rd gens I would opt to at least pull the fan out so to gain some room. Yeah you got to unplug the fan clutch and get a fan wrench set but once the fan is out of the way I'm pretty sure you'll be able to change the front crank seal and reseal the gear case.

I would suggest against it. Typically the DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pumps) don't address the plumbing issues. So the pressure problem will continue. Also the DDRP pump don't isolate the ECM from the pump so if the pump shorts out you take the risk of eating a ECM. There is no fuse or relay for protection like the bigger kits like AirDog 150 or FASS 150. You need a fuel system that replaces everything from the fuel tank to the VP44. So you going to buy a good high power fuel lift pump but force it to suck on a 6mm straw and push fuel through the choked banjo bolts. Not a good idea. Good way to experience this is take your favorite beer put it on the back bumper and get some 6mm tubing and suck your brains out to get your beer. The stock fuel pickup module is also too small to this why most have either modified the stock fuel module or just installed a drawstraw.

I would only reuse an evaporator in two conditions are met. 1. There is no visible damage to the evaporator or visible leaks which show up as an oily spot. 2. No "Black Death" in the tubes. Black Death is the aluminum grindings from the compressor. As long as the tubes are clean I'd use it.

Talk to @IBMobile he knows the relay to use.

4 quarts.

Well below the minimum. The new standard is 14 to 20 PSI.

Just like me shutting down my exhaust brake I get the crack from the discharge of the solenoid magnetic field just like an ignition coil. You'll need a proper filter diode like in quality relay have that reduce the discharge spike across the diode.

Problem is you need 14 to 20 PSI for optimal VP44 lifespan. Below 14 PSI the overflow valve is closed. Stock Carter might barely do 14 PSI at idle but will drop it 8 PSI because the plumbing is too small.

Between injectors or compression. You could pull the injectors and gave them tested with DAP. While the injectors are out do a compression test. You'll find out if you wash out the rings and cylinder walls. Then the injector test will tell you if the injectors are failing or just wore out.

Time do a compression test.

Most likely to go along with the synthetic chicken right?

450,494 miles for us US folks. Welcome to the website and the family Cummins owners.

I'm trying something different. I'm straying my calculation a bit. I know that the Hankook 245's are the same weight capacity as the 235's. Now I'm going to keep the offset from front to back but I'm going to rise +10 PSI to both axles. So my front is 70 PSI and the rear is 50 PSI. I'm mostly highway miles right now but I've had strange wear patterns in the past running 60 PSI front and 40 PSI in the rears. It would feather or cup the edges of the tires. When the winter weather and road conditions come I might drop back to get the bite for traction purpose. With the pressures this high I've notice my contact patch is much smaller for sure.

The only thing I've been having a problem with lately is a weeping fuel leak. Not enough to make a mess but it still dripping off the bellhousing. It will drip just enough to spot the ground and smell of diesel fuel. I replaced the two sealing washers on the return line at the back of the head. That is a trick to do. I tell you a secret is to put your new sealing washer on the banjo bolt and put it in place in the banjo fitting. Now push the fuel line back against the firewall to hold the bolt in place now you can push the second sealing washer on the bolt. Now just thread it back into the head. Crossover tubes got fresh o-rings during the assembly process and the injectors got fresh o-rings too. I'm chasing the fuel leak between either #5 or #6 behind the hoist ring. Maybe I got it this time. Never had a hard start issue.

The only reason I can see jumping to 17-inch is for the 3rd Gen oversized brakes. But if your using the 245's like I'm running you have better final gear ratio and better braking than upgrading to 17-inch wheels and oversized sizes. I jumped back to the 2nd Gen steel chrome wheels (16 x 6) which happen to be 1 inch narrower than the aluminum wheels (16 x 7). Most people look for the cool factor and go oversized. I stuck to the performance and calculation of gear ratio and torque output. Now I actually hunt for the big jacked up 37" tires because I can whip them with no problem. Done it more than once. Funny when a small tire stock height 2nd Gen whips a 4th Gen jacked up on 35" inch tires.

Kind of why I do the double stack filter setup. AirDog 150 with Donaldson 3um filter and then the stock filter can is still there and I've got a 7um filter in there. So no matter what I've got a better chance of keeping dirt and water out of the injection pump and injectors. I will not buy the cheapest fuel either. I typically stay to either name brand truck stop that sell high volumes of fuel or name brands like Chevron. No mom and pop fuel stations for me.

So am I. At least I don't have to worry about him being too cold in the garage as I leave for 13 hours for MoparMom's dialysis treatment. Then if I take him I would have to go out and fire up the truck and let it warm up so he didn't freeze to death in subzero weather. Visa Vera when it was summertime like you worrying about him being too hot in the truck. Being cooped up in the garage for the 13 hours where it was at least cool for him. But I know he got lonely laying down there waiting for us. Just because of the circumstance its best to be dog free for the time. In the future, if things change then it would be time to get a dog.

I would have those rotors checked for cracks and runout before machining or thinking of using those rotors. I'm betting the slotted rotors either cracked or they are not machined true at all or both.

Kind of like my 1973 Dodge Charger SE which was the first vehicle I ever owned. I rolled 336k miles on the odometer then sold it about 4 years ago. That car I replaced the original 400 CID with a 383 CID and beefed it up and had the 727 torqueflite transmission. My Dad bought that car brand new back in 1973 at Reseda Dodge. I even gave the new owner all the original invoice from the dealer. My 1972 Dodge Power Wagon I put on a bit over 220k miles and because of my lack of knowledge of oversized tires (and wanted to look cool!) I ended up destroying that front axle 3 different times which forced me to buy the current 2002. No longer could get part for that truck being so old. I learned a lot from that old truck. Now with my 2002 Dodge currently running, I've traveled 356k miles and still going. Yeah, I've had to do repairs but nothing outrageous out of the norm. I tow mostly during the summer either my utility trailer packed with firewood or the RV. Believe it or not my Cummins has only been towed home once in its life. (Broke the transmission mainshaft). Very reliable truck and always brought me home safely. Even in the worse of weather this Cummins just keeps rolling. Never gelled fuel yet even with the weather down to -40*F. Always started and always brought me home. I still going to cross the 500k milestone for sure. Now as for when I bought the 2002 Dodge brand new. Yeah, it was cool to have a new truck and no issue. But... When issues came it was a pain in . By the time I reached 48k on the clock, I was losing my first lift pump and then by 50k lost the VP44. Not long from there I gave the Dodge Dealer the middle finger and became my own warranty station. I was already learning about the crappy lift pump and fuel supply by then and the dealer wanted to install an in-tank lift pump which I refused. After that point, I handled all the repairs on my own. I've never looked back. So I basically threw away 50k miles worth of warranty to keep from getting crappy parts which would have kept me coming back for VP44 replacements. I doubt I'll ever buy a brand new truck again. Having a truck payment and dealing with the service techs and making sure your getting the best option. Naw... I'll turn wrenches until I can no longer do it. The fact is no matter what vehicle you buy today they all have there own weakness and it up to you as the owner to study up on those weaknesses. Being I deal with vendors and other providers for the Dodge / Ram Cummins I know a lot about the newer trucks and not very happy with the current state.