Mopar1973Man

Second up would be Vulcan Performance. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/151-vulcan-performance/

I would have the alternator checked it might have a bad armature winding that is killing the voltage regulators. Basically, in a nutshell, the charging system has been the same for years. Blue wire is +12V key hot then the green wire is variable ground from the voltage regulator. So the blue wire supplied the sense voltage to the regulator and then the case would supply the ground for alternator as well as the alternator. So verify the green wire is not shorting to ground or opening up. Then verify the regulator case has a good clean ground contact.

I remember when the 2nd Gen came out it was sure a worry about oiling before startup that there was electric pump kits that you could toggle on and pump up oil pressure before you even started the truck. As time went on that whole thought of pre-lube went out the window being that trucks were going 1 million miles without the pre-lube pump.

Be careful. When removing stuff you might regret something you cut loose and now need. You might ask @Chris O. for advise on the electric system being he's our CCD network guru. ABS computer is needed for Speed display. PCM is needed for base of the CCD network. ECM is needed for the engine. Cluster is optional. Check on the central timer I think you'll lose wipers. These trucks are not a good one to strip down... 12V is much better choice. All you need is a fuel solenoid signal and starter trigger.

No. Not found one. I know the old Scotty II air filter was the absolute loudest air filter for our trucks. Sad to say no longer manufactured. With a cold air hole drilled in the cowl and that really amped up the noise of the filter.

(Hint) engine hoist works awesome.

Ehhh? Say what sonny?

That's what mine sounds like going over every grade. Spools up to about 10-12 PSI and whistles the whole way up a hill. Drop over the backside and goes quiet. Like this morning I'm taking the Cummins and going to McCall, ID. I'll have to climb Goose Creek grade which is a 7% grade winding. I'll see if I can capture a bit of video of the turbo spooling. Then on the flat ground capture a bit more video.

Never going to happen. BHAF is way better than stock airbox. This is one reason I dumped the stock air box long ago. The turbo heat will deform the plastic over time and the clamping force on the filter will get weak. Then you will start seeing dust trails on the lid. I highly suggest against the stock air box and suggest you keep the BHAF. If you want to cut the turbo noise down, turn the timing up the boost will fall near zero at highway speed. No noise at all. Remember the amount of drive time I put in. I can tell you 20-21* of timing will make the turbo near silent. remember I'm an HX35/40 hybrid (60/6012) with no way to install a silencer ring. No way to silence that turbo other than timing.

Just gotta fill that question I'm sure someone would ask it.

Ok. The only way I'll do it is if you lift the head off by yourself. LOL. You are behind. The firewood is here it just has to be split and stacked. Like I said I left them out and gave them the cold shoulder last night. 37*F this morning here at my place.

What about engine without an oil filter like small engines like lawn mowers and log splitters? If its so dirty these engines should fall apart instantly being the oil is dirty right out of the bottle and there is no filter.

Yeah, I went a bit technical. Basically if you have OBDLink LX or MX dongle you can use a bluetooth terminal app on your device. Now log into the dongle and issue commands to the bus. The PID list is the manual way of looking at information on the bus. Most apps do this for you but skip things like the address 1C which is ODBII compliance. Funny when you see the result from that address on the bus is a 5 and the Cummins is NOT OBDII compliant. As for the code hang up it just weird burp or hiccup you might run into sometimes. I posted that to hopefully help anyone out with a hung OBDII error code that won't report. I think it was more so the ScanGauge II that I have that did this hang up. Right now @Me78569 has my ScanGauge II.

Verified... Works fully and reads PCM, ECM and live data. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ http://www.obdlink.com/mxbt/ Rare time, I've seen OBDII tools hang up and not read any codes even though the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I've found if you pull the ECT sensor lead and create a fresh code then the rest of the codes show up. NOTE: 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins are NOT ODBII compliant. If you check PID 1C (Hex) it will report 05 back in response. Which means Dodge Cummins not ODBII compliant. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

(With a Mad Scientist voice) It's alive! It runs once again! I'm quite amazed. I got it started and left it idle while I picked up a few things then kicked it out the door to warm up more as I clean up a bit more stuff. Then I took off down the road riding easy on it till it warmed up and the thermostat opened and cycled once. I knew it needed to burp once. After that, I gave it a few good stabs at the throttle and it pulls like a scalded ape. Nothing long but something to create EGT's a bit. After about 5 miles I stopped and check for leaks or any issues. None to be found. Continued down canyon for another 5 miles. Pulled off again checking for any leaks or any issues. Still nothing. Cruise on back home and sun is just going down and with my flashlight, I caught a glance at my breather pipe the blow by is greatly reduced. The vapor comes out the end of the pipe like steam off a hot cup of coffee in the morning. I'm leaving the beast outside to chill tonight so I can see the start up and what the smoke if any.

Just need to cut a filter open. I think I've got a used NAPA filter sitting on my drain bucket.

Just post it up in the classified section. You can post the truck and the parts separate.

Weak batteries or grid heaters running. Go drive the truck charge you batteries and test again. Make sure all accessories are turned off.

Drain back is because of the change in the drain back valve in the filter I'm pretty sure it changed since the original design back in the 2nd Gen. Fleetguard filter use to hold full filter then it changed a few years back I started to notice the half filled filters as well.

Timing most likely. As the pumps wear the timing typically starts to drift.

I won't do it. Anything poured in the center hole debris wise is straight to the bearings and oil jets. You would have to hold your thumb over the center hole and fill from the outer.

Right from ARP's website... https://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

Welcome to the family. Ask all the questions you need I'm sure someone can help.

Same here the OBDLink LX reads codes just fine.

What brand of OBDII dongle?