Mopar1973Man

Nope, you did it right. The check gauges are because of the battery voltage dove under 12.00 volts. So this most likely means there is a problem possibly with the output speed sensor or transmission possibly. You might want to talk to @Dynamic about this issue he should be able to give you more clues.

I'm not sure now about the Bosch diodes. I've done a bit of searching but turning up very little information on the Bosch side.

Perosnally, I would get out of the stock sender. Install a draw straw of some sort. The stock in-tank pump is restrictive from the get-go. All the factory plumbing is too small measuring out at 6mm ID (.24 inch ID). Then pumps are not design to lift or suck fuel long distances. You'll need to get the other pump to relocate it on the frame back towards the tank. Then the DDRP pump directly plugs into the ECM so if anything electrically happens to the Raptor the ECM is going to fry. I've not had much to say positive about your setup I'm sorry...

Yes its still charging with 14 Volts DC but when the diodes give up it could be charging with AC voltage too on top of the 14V DC.

Bosch alternators are not easy to rebuild from what I understand you have to unsolder each diode one at a time and replace them. Where the Denso alternator is a package like what you see above.

He's got a DDRP pump. Those really can't be relocated because of the port in the pump are too small for normal 1/2" Parker push lock fittings. There is actually 2 series of pumps... Raptor as a remote mount and the Raptor DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pump) which goes in the stock location. Ports are different.

I'm going to try to make an article about it. I'll get my camera out to the shop and shoot a few pictures but I'll base it mostly on the ARP documents supplied with the studs. Being I'm playing with high timing and boost pressures ranging in the 40-45 PSI realm I'm playing with fire if I don't do good head studs. I know @dieselautopower mentioned I could do cap stud at a bit lower price. Then he mention that they see guys making 500 HP on stock head bolts with no issues. Am I willing to Russian Roulette with the Cummins? Naw, I really don't want to do this job again thank you. Might as well invest in good stud and not have to worry about it for 300-400k miles again and know that the gasket will stay clamped down.

US Postal showed up for a package today. Like Christmas all over again...

There are oil ports into the bottom of each set of rockers. As far as I know, there is no oil port in the push rod at all. Never really looked but I'm pretty sure there isn't.

Northwest Machine just called... Bad news, is the price will be up there at the $1,000 mark for sure. Exhaust guides, exhaust valves, and all valve seals are shot. The problem is the exhaust guides start to get loose and the valve stems are moving around which tore up the exhaust seals for sure. Good news, typically the Cummins head is known for cracking but just in the visual inspection, the head is in good condition and past the pressure test with flying colors. Now to break open the piggy bank...

Edge Comp drove that as high as 20 to 22 degrees (highway speed). Then after warm up fell to 12.86 degrees (idle). Hence the IAT fooler this brought it back down to the normal stock realm.

Alternator is shot.

$71.45 http://www.fostertruck.com/diode-pack-rectifier-bridge-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html Vs. $54.50 https://mopar1973man.com/store/product/61-denso-alternator-rectifierdiodes/ Nations alternator is a full replacement alternator which will require the ground wire mod to basically omit the old charge lead and route to the passenger battery. Be aware it can be quite a bit more than even a remanufactured Denso.

Welcome to the family... Dave is right you might want to post up in the 3rd Gen area and let see if we can get some eyes on your problem.

Stock: Intake - 0.010" and Exhaust - 0.020" What I tried: - Results in a lopey idle after long highway runs. If too tight it can cause stalling after long highway runs. Intake - 0.008" Exhaust - 0.018" Currently: - Resulted so far in a smoother idle and small gain to performance. Intake - 0.012" Exhaust - 0.022" Cummins Specs span: Intake - 0.006" to 0.015" Exhaust - 0.015" to 0.030"

Hey @24Vrick you might fill out your signature and give us a bit more information on the truck. 18 MPG isn't bad but with a bit of work you can cross the 20 MPG. I'm just starting to touch 21 MPG...

Hence the nickname "Chicken Man". Dave is an awesome gent I've talked to many of times and shared a beer on the phone numbers of times. One of these days we just might meet.

Be aware a bad oil pressure sensor can foul the MAP sensor. This is a little secret from another member.

Ummm... P0216 code could be... If the timing piston is galled up and damaged there is no real electronic issue with the PSG but the timing piston can be jamming up because of expanding metal as the pump heat up it starts to jam and stick. Then when the ECM calls for advancement or retard the timing doesn't respond fast enough because the piston is stuck so the P0216 code is thrown.

44mV AC is borderline. (50 mV random problems start - 100mV is a fail.) 26mV AC is normal. (20 to 30mV) Now if you did the W-T ground mod it will drop even lower. Be warned do not do the ground mod to cover up bad diodes. Replace the diodes first or replace the alternator before doing the ground mod.

I'm not sure if the timing was the whole problem. I started having coolant leaks on the back of the passenger side of the head. No freeze plug issues. All head gasket. Now talking to local friends they informed me that 300k mark typically head gaskets start to show up. Like even Justin, down at Northwest Machine said the same thing 300k is like the end of the head gasket life and the head start to curl in the back and front. All right here...

In a nutshell all local driving still highway but limited to 55 MPH. Chevron Diesel fuel only. Be careful. Cetane is backwards to what you think. There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel availability." So where the lines cross is the cetane number but notice the BTU number of the higher cetane. This is why winterized fuel of 45 and up tends to produce less power and lower MPG's. Again this is all quoted from the ASTM test labs documents. I actually look for 40 cetane where I can the lower the better. This is why 2 cycle oil was a good part of the high mark too since 2 cycle oil reduced cetane more.

Being the Cummins is shredded in the shop I've been driving the 96 Dodge half ton. I love these 215's tires on this truck awesome performance. With the 46RE transmission having a tall overdrive gear you still find that you are grabbing the OD Off button in some areas. It pulls up the power great and backs off on the cruise again. Last tank I still hit 16.34 MPG even with hopping on the interstate and running 70 MPH to Boise to drop the head off in the shop. I could of pulled a bit better numbers if I was stuck in traffic and stop and go. Oh well... Still not complaining this is awesome looking back at the old numbers of 12 to 14 MPG it a good increase in power and economy.