Mopar1973Man

Sure didn't do much for the efficiency of the engine. I've got a Mopar Performance PCM and did a little regearing for the truck and no set it up for 17 MPG truck.

it's not us... It the VP44. As long as the pressure is dropping below 14 PSI your just aiming for VP44 replacement. Another way to look at it. Minimum oil pressure spec for these engine is 10 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM. How long do you think the engine will last right at the minimum oil pressure limit? Most likely not very long. Same thing is true for the VP44 being the only lubricant is the fuel itself and the only means of cooling the pump internal parts is by keeping the overflow valve open with return flow to the fuel tank. If the pressure falls below 14 PSI you just cut your cooling for the VP44 and take a risk of burning up the PSG unit on the VP44. Another thing is the VP44 needs fuel pressure to move the timing so if the fuel pressure drops too low the cam ring can't be advanced properly hence the P0216 that comes with low pressure problems. Just food for thought. Ummm what the specs on this truck is this the diesel or a gasoline engine? 7 MPG is serious low for either version. My 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 5.9L gets 17 MPG and the 2002 Dodge Cummins gets 20 to 21 MPG.

Private property (forum member's in-law's place). I've got water and 30A power. Then RV dump is 2 miles away in Parma, ID. I pitch the landowner $100 bucks and I get my spot being I'm not there every day and only there for 4 hours and gone.

Umm... Block heater really? I still start without grid heaters let alone a block heater at +25*F... After about +20*F I watch for the Wait To Start light. I don't bother plugging in till below ZERO. Now it cold enough for a block heater. Even without a block heater at -20*F just cycle the grid heaters twice fire it up.

You need to shock the bolts. You can't get an impact gun in there. Just pulling with pure torque most likely with just turn the crank.

I've not gone deer hunting since 1992. This is just bringing home my second home from Parma, ID for the winter. This is my hideout for the summertime while MoparMom does here dialysis treatments. From here on out I get to hang out in parking lots and coffee shops for the rest of the winter time. My last trip down I took a ride on the ATV across the desert landscape. Now I need it at home so I can get up the mountain and shut down the irrigation water for the 3 homes here. Then use the ATV for the wood splitter and get the winter firewood split up. I've got to dump the RV tank, blow the water lines out and reload the propane tanks for the winter. My other home during the summer during MoparMom dialysis treatments.

Meaningless number then. It MUST be rolling down the highway. Neutral/Park and revving the RPM up it meaningless. There is no real fuel flow at that point. Let's say I've measure upwards of 20 GPH injected to the engine at highway speeds WOT. Revving the engine in neutral you might break over 0.5 GPH because there is no load on the engine. More than likely your fuel pump is junk if it can't even hold 14 to 20 PSI revving in neutral. Again... Idle is 17 PSI WOT at over 80 MPH is 15 PSI. That is stability only found with larger fuel pump like the AirDog 150 or FASS 150 pump with full 1/2" pumping. Won't find that with a AirTex using the stock 6mm ID (Which is smaller than 1/4 fuel hose!) plumbing and banjo bolts. Old video... Still the same today... still running the same AirDog 150...

Well, that is part of it that is just the clip.

Yes. That is normal. That means the power from the Transmission relay is reaching the solenoid and the orange black is open currently. Again the only thing the PCM does is control the time at which the orange/black will ground which will lock up the torque converter. Then if it opens that connection then unlock the torque converter. As you see the alternator field wire (blue) which is the key on sense for the transmission relay to send power to the transmission.

4 things that will kill a VP44... 1. Low fuel pressure below 14 PSI. 14 to 20 PSI is optimal! 2. Poor fuel filtration. Stock is 10um but 3 um is preferred and double stacking is better yet! 3. Excessive AC noise from the alternator. Max of 50 mV AC allowed! 4. Poor Lubricity of the fuel and excessive use of cetane booster and injector cleaners which make this worse!

Here in Idaho if a Dodge Cummins comes to wrecking yard its sold before it even hits the dirt. I don't have a salvage yard to even go play in. I check the network for local yards and the truck is sold before it hits the dirt. Sad but true!

Pull the fuel pump relay from the PDC and crank the engine over and get a measurement. No. worthless. You need a solid 5 to 15 seconds of cranking to see a good number and make sure you not measuring a air bubble or wild numbers. WOT at safe highway speed like passing another vehicle. Where you stomped to the fuel pouring everything you got under load. Engine is governor out to 3,200 RPM anyways.

Could you list the part numbers if you know them please. @greed

Both probes in the 4, 5, 6 tube. I've got my EGT cooldown set for 300*F and it shocks most diesel owners to see the truck shut off by itsefl. I've had people chase me down to tell me my truck did shut off. Just about the time they do that the truck shut down. Then they stand there saying I own a 2nd gen also but it won't do that!

Personally, I would just ditch that chunk of line and get some quality diesel fuel line and two hose clamps and just replace that section. The piece of line from the bottom tee connection to the frame rail going back to the tank is just plastic. It firms up of the years of 140 to 160*F fuel ran through it.

Stick a socket on the bolts and smack the ratchet handle with your hand they are not torqued in that tight. Only 4 bolts holding the damper on. Not like the old days of taking the center bolt out of Chevy crank and then using a puller to get the damper of the crank. Nowhere near that. Just a couple of smack with your hand and the bolt will give in.

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has the factory flat running boards. I hate this version The underside packs with snow really bad and your constantly washing the using side off. The top side is very slick in wet or snowy conditions. More than once have I landing back in the seat or on the ground because of these running boards. The metal hardware is taking a beating from all the salt and mud. 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 has the Bully nerf bars. I like these because the will not hold mud or snow it just falls off. The steps you still got to be careful of the plastic steps will give traction for the most part and help prevent falling or slipping but over the years the sun has cooked the plastic and now breaking apart. The chrome tube is very resistant to mud and salt and never really showing any signs of rust or failure yet.

Boy talk about towing power. The new ratio with 245's is totally awesome. Even with all this and pushing 17,000 pounds total, I'm able to leave it in 5th gear most of the way home. EGT's are at least 100-150*F lower than previously climbing grades. With my current Quadzilla Tune left on level 3 (No wiretap) I can stand on the throttle till truck will not accelerate any longer and never cross 1,100*F EGT's. Coolant temperature with the 180*F thermostat will still climb quite well but nothing out of the normal where it climbs to about 210*F. Most of the trip home I left the cruise set for 60 MPH and only two grades I slowed down to 55 MPH because with the smaller tires 60 MPH in 4th gear is nearly 2,400 RPM so at 55 MPH it's like 2,200 RPM. In 4th gear it hovering like 1,000 to 1,100*F even on a 7% grade now. I'm for sure keeping this tire size!

Brought home the Honda Rancher ATV and the 31 foot Jayco Eagle last night. Something a 5er cant do... Boy, I like my leveling kit sitting nice and level. Don't look like a squatting Ford.

Coming to a neighborhood near you. Snow line is about 6k in elevation here.

95 will be easy compared to the CR engine.

The only time I pay attention to the WTS is the first start of the day. After that I stab the key, twist, and fire the beast up. Like everyone said above if the WTS is not lighting up instantly the VP44 and the ECM are not booted up and are braindead till at least the WTS light comes on. The very first instruction is to light the WTS up and the check for IAT and battery temp to figure out if grid heaters are required. It possible to have 190*F engine temp and 120*F IAT temp and still get grid heaters pre-start and post start this is based on battery temperature.

I like running the Quadzilla headless. Have a new friend jump in the truck that doesn't know about the Quadzilla and let it rock and roll and they are shocked at the power the truck produces without a visible tune seen in the cab. Not to mention the fact if you use you daily cellphone as your display none the wiser when you pull your cell phone out of the truck. People look at my truck and figure its just stock, small tires, blah... Not much of a target being there is no flash to my truck. I've got ISSPro EV2 gauges with programmable warning lights. I've got my EGT gauge set for warning light at 1,200*F. Then my Fuel pressure gauge has the warning light set for 13 PSI. Then my boost gauge is 40 PSI warning light. Really nice because now you don't have to look at the gauge directly just the level at which the light comes on is enough to warn me. From top to bottom is Boost, fuel pressure and Pyrometer. If the lowest light pops on I know it time to lift my foot and grab a gear down. No need to eagle eye the gauges anymore.

Too high during cranking should be 7 to 12 PSI. Normal under load should be 14 to 20 PSI. 17 PSI is OK for idling but what is it at WOT?

That should be +12V. RED wire is the power from the transmission relay. The PCM only ground or open the Orange/Black lead.