Mopar1973Man

Don't trust the dash gauge is not accurate. Mechanical gauge will prove this quickly.

Here is a good article to read about making a good or bad fuel additive for anti-gel purpose. http://www.mining.com/web/the-right-way-and-the-wrong-way-to-build-a-good-diesel-fuel-winterization-additive/

The grid heater do not ground through the body. That is insulated by ceramic or something. The ground is the lead bolted down on the front side. The twin studs are your power leads. Typically the only time both grid heaters are hot is during the pre-heat cycle for 190 Amp draw. After the engine is started then it's typically only one element running for 95 Amp draw. (Thinking out loud and educated guessing) I wonder if there is a weird ground issue or problem where its possible for both solenoids to fire during the post heat cycle? Yellow/Black and the Orange/Black go back to the ECM and supply the positive signal to fire the solenoids. According to the Dodge FSM the G115 is a direct connection with the battery ground. Assuming on the driver side. Still in all, there is the joint connector in the PDC (weak connection, bad ground point?) To get information correct. I'm going to have to test and see what lead (OR/BLK and YEL/BLK) does what during what time (pre or post heat). Verify my ground to the battery is good from point to point. (Solenoid to the joint connector and then on to the battery). Verify the voltage at the solenoid is actually 12V (which it should be). Then ohm test the grid heater as well to see what I get for measurement for @IBMobile . @W-T gave us the ground wire mod now I'm going to get the grid heater fix. (or at least a good attempt too...)

Back in time, years ago that was a really popular solution by the dealers.

Yes. A lot of people got the retro-fit in-tank lift pump then had it fail and then stack on an external lift pump. So yes it's possible to see two lift pumps on a truck. Matter of fact Dodge even has an add-on double pump kit. The first pump was controlled from the ECM as normal then the second pump controlled by an oil pressure switch. Typically the second pump was on the driver side frame rail.

That is true if I unhook the grid heater the diodes stay very cool. Still, back the problem why did I get 10 plus years of service from the alternator with no issues. Now diodes are constantly overheating and failing? What has changed about the grid heaters to make the diodes overheat? Never had that issue with the truck brand new.

Even synthetic blinker fluid!

Correct. From 1994 Dodge started installed two batteries which were group 65's from that point on. 3rd Gen has a different battery.

When I get home. Ill see.

Mine get 6 hours off charge time every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday with my 250 mile trip. Now those who live in town barely drive 3 to 7 miles to work are not doing the batteries any good. Now in the cold batteries resist being charged this is why the charge voltage jobs to 14.8 or so to force the batteries to warm up.

Capacitor will do nothing load is load 195 amp is still 195 amps. I'm wondering as the grid heaters age if they can possibly get higher current flow. I know science says no, it suppose to be less current flow.

My AirDog still going. First pump head lasted 13 years and 250k miles. Now working on my second pump head.

Still leads me back to the beginning with my truck. Why is it 10 years can go by and never have an alternator issue now it's a constant battle? The battle begins in the fall and goes to spring. Never an issue in the summer. The only thing I can say is the grid heater degrades over time and creates these issues.

Some fuel station have really poor filters, some don't really care.

I'm trying the figure out how to prevent diode damage. I'm tired of changing alternator in the winter. Last winter I changed out 3 alternator. Never a problem all summer.

Should seen the 5 head of Elk walking along the highway this morning. Hunter driving right on by... Private land.

Something I figured out the other day. I had started my truck cold after doing a valve adjustment and the grid heater was cycling in and out as normal. Then I placed my hand on the back of the alternator near the diode plate and Wow! that thing gets hot. Even with the Quadzilla bumping up the idle to 1,200 RPM with its own high idle the draw of the grid heater is considerable. I'm starting to think it might a be a good suggestion to replace my grid heater here in the future and see if the diode heat is reduced.

So far I'm really impressed with the lifespan on the tire and the winter performance. Just under $950 for the set of four 245/75 R16. Still rated for 3,042 pounds @ 80 PSI.

Actually, it keeps the SEO strong. Foul language tends to destroy the SEO power of the site. If you're wondering what SEO it is Search Engine Optimations.

This happens to be a Chevy small block of some sort. Like 350 CID. The adjustable rockers and the valve cover bolt holes are the give away.

There is huge database of words I jacked in.

OEM batteries were 750 CCA for 2nd Gen. Being there is two batteries its actually 1,500 CCA. The only one that is different is 1st Gen trucks with group 31 batteries and typically 1,200 CCA.

Welcome to the family here. Sound like you well experienced with the Cummins engine. You'll be a good asset for all the newbies here.

Yeah, Edge products are proud of the Edge Juice with Attitude CTS.