Mopar1973Man

Just gotta fill that question I'm sure someone would ask it.

Ok. The only way I'll do it is if you lift the head off by yourself. LOL. You are behind. The firewood is here it just has to be split and stacked. Like I said I left them out and gave them the cold shoulder last night. 37*F this morning here at my place.

What about engine without an oil filter like small engines like lawn mowers and log splitters? If its so dirty these engines should fall apart instantly being the oil is dirty right out of the bottle and there is no filter.

Yeah, I went a bit technical. Basically if you have OBDLink LX or MX dongle you can use a bluetooth terminal app on your device. Now log into the dongle and issue commands to the bus. The PID list is the manual way of looking at information on the bus. Most apps do this for you but skip things like the address 1C which is ODBII compliance. Funny when you see the result from that address on the bus is a 5 and the Cummins is NOT OBDII compliant. As for the code hang up it just weird burp or hiccup you might run into sometimes. I posted that to hopefully help anyone out with a hung OBDII error code that won't report. I think it was more so the ScanGauge II that I have that did this hang up. Right now @Me78569 has my ScanGauge II.

Verified... Works fully and reads PCM, ECM and live data. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ http://www.obdlink.com/mxbt/ Rare time, I've seen OBDII tools hang up and not read any codes even though the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I've found if you pull the ECT sensor lead and create a fresh code then the rest of the codes show up. NOTE: 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins are NOT ODBII compliant. If you check PID 1C (Hex) it will report 05 back in response. Which means Dodge Cummins not ODBII compliant. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

(With a Mad Scientist voice) It's alive! It runs once again! I'm quite amazed. I got it started and left it idle while I picked up a few things then kicked it out the door to warm up more as I clean up a bit more stuff. Then I took off down the road riding easy on it till it warmed up and the thermostat opened and cycled once. I knew it needed to burp once. After that, I gave it a few good stabs at the throttle and it pulls like a scalded ape. Nothing long but something to create EGT's a bit. After about 5 miles I stopped and check for leaks or any issues. None to be found. Continued down canyon for another 5 miles. Pulled off again checking for any leaks or any issues. Still nothing. Cruise on back home and sun is just going down and with my flashlight, I caught a glance at my breather pipe the blow by is greatly reduced. The vapor comes out the end of the pipe like steam off a hot cup of coffee in the morning. I'm leaving the beast outside to chill tonight so I can see the start up and what the smoke if any.

Just need to cut a filter open. I think I've got a used NAPA filter sitting on my drain bucket.

Just post it up in the classified section. You can post the truck and the parts separate.

Weak batteries or grid heaters running. Go drive the truck charge you batteries and test again. Make sure all accessories are turned off.

Drain back is because of the change in the drain back valve in the filter I'm pretty sure it changed since the original design back in the 2nd Gen. Fleetguard filter use to hold full filter then it changed a few years back I started to notice the half filled filters as well.

Timing most likely. As the pumps wear the timing typically starts to drift.

I won't do it. Anything poured in the center hole debris wise is straight to the bearings and oil jets. You would have to hold your thumb over the center hole and fill from the outer.

Right from ARP's website... https://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

Welcome to the family. Ask all the questions you need I'm sure someone can help.

Same here the OBDLink LX reads codes just fine.

What brand of OBDII dongle?

Smoky... XZT is designed around stock injectors. Not boost to fuel control nor timing control. Bigger the injectors the more timing is required. Again it's about a balance of fuel and timing. XZT is not going to do that. Need a good amount timing retard as the turbo starts to light then flip over to advancing and heavy fuel. That period of time is based on timing and fuel/boost control. Ummm... Stock ECM timing is about 12* above 20% engine load. So if you want timing you have to have a live data display and keep the engine load below 20%. This is normal smog control tuning. If you really want to see retarded look at CR software it so retard stock that the main event actual fires ATDC not BTDC. The only thing I could think of is an exhaust leak or boost leak. But that wind tunnel sound is typically the BHAF that seems to amplify the sound like the turbo attempting to suck the glovebox through the firewall. If the compressor is not making contact and the shaft can't be pulled in or out the bearings are good. Long as there isn't any oil in the mouth of the compressor the seals are good.

Sounds normal. You problem is the timing is retarded so turbo typically stays active more. When you get into timing you'll find the turbo is much quieter and boost is much lower. Mine is typically 2 PSI at 65 MPH and very quiet. Then hit a grade it sounds like a turbo prop.

Do I want to know?

Bigger looks cool but small is better for the economy.

I've managed to get it all back together. Trying to get it to start now but my batteries didn't hold up to the cranking and sitting for the week. At least get it to fire up and move would be good so I can clean the floor so I can fix the power steer pump seal for the reservoir. I'm going to do a local shakedown before committing the truck to the long haul.

If you want to know how much loss there is the rotational mass you have here is the web site for mathing that out all the way down to the lug nuts. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html Be aware the LT truck had 245/75 R16 tires and the SLT truck had the 265/75 R16 tires. Still in a stock range of tires just better ratio.

I'm working my way on reassembly now. We'll see soon, won't we...

Oh, I sure did. I also see why the lube is so important. Surprisingly as your torquing the head studs you really do see those washers turn like a bearing surface. I made sure to give them a good layer of lube top and bottom of each washer and then some lube on the threads. Once I get coolant loaded back up sound like a good idea. Just last year my VP44 died with a P0216 code stuck in full advancement. The truck managed to roll home under its own power at a mere 20-25 MPH knocking rather hard. That could be why you see that. As for my timing on my tune is nothing stronger than what the stock ECM can do now. I'm right at 20-21*... I've tried high timing but always see a rise in engine load start from there. Funny that new injection pump has nearly 100k miles already.

Key trick only works on a 2002 correctly. 98.5 and 99 don't do anything. 2000 PCM only 2001 maybe PCM and ECM but most are PCM only. 2002 ECM and PCM for sure.