Mopar1973Man

Like my band-aid solution is the alternator problem is having a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner or my High Idle Kit. With a Quadzilla set the high idle for 15-seconds delay. This way the engine has enough time ot get oil pumping then the Quadzilla kicks the idle up to 1,200 RPM's giving the alternator enough speed to cool itself as well as charge the batteries. My high idle kit does the same thing but longer delay about 60-120 seconds delay and then amps up to 1,200 RPM. Just I provide a 3 cylinder mode for fast warm up. Either way the alternator is not trying to charge with true 800 RPM idle speeds and it's more like slow road speed.

Can you post pictures of the burnt unit so I can possibly figure out what subsystem caused the issue?

That is true. When you start the engine the grid heater will cycle on and off for set time or till the vehicle reaches 20-25 MPH then the ECM disables the grid heater this is a reason I do not suggest just starting and leaving the engine to idle on a cold start. Now the batteries are depleted from the morning cold start and powering the grid heaters. Now you going to leave the truck idling with the grid heater still banging away on the alternator at idle speed of 800 RPM where the diodes take a huge beating because there is no airflow from the alternator fan, not enough RPM's for purpose charging and the diodes eventually overheat and fail. Yeah, it will fix the problem. The surge is caused by excessive AC noise and it fouls the tach signal to the ECM and PCM. Yeah, sad to say it a fail for sure.

Replace the entire bar. The factory style bar is a vulcanized rubber insert that isn't designed for replacement.

If everything is still factory height then it should be the same even 16 years later. Like my truck, no lift or leveling kit, so factory size track bar should be the same years later. The axle center should be still the same. Your comment holds true if the is leveling kit or lift kit added. Then the geometry of the axle is way different and would require adjustment. Because as you push the axle down the track bar becomes too short and needs to be extended.

Should be capped. If your just a 2WD truck then you should have a cap on the tee and nothing there.

Funny part I've seen guys with RV275 injectors running twin turbos.

I would have to say the sensor is blown. Most likely tapped in right at the VP44 which usually kills the sensor in a short order. Like my fuel pressure sensor is 5 feet away and the snubber is at the tap point so by the time you travel the last 5 feet to the sensor the water hammer pulses are nill.

If the belt is off and screeching noise is still there then its crank related between the engine and the transmission depending on where the noise is coming from. If the turbo has no signs of rubbing then you are going have to dig in and look at what left and isolate the noise down its source. The only other educated guess I have is possibly you have compression whistling through the gasket? Are you sure you torqued the studs down? Intake gasket blowing air? Just trying to think of all the ways to create a screeching sound possibly.

Not anymore. I can't remember but I remember I bought cheapy ball joints and they are still going. The uppers are greaseable and the lowers are sealed.

The only thing I could think of inspect the turbo. Is the compressor wheel making contact with the housing?

Whew! I thought you ditched it outright... Still in all a good power washing would help that beast. Just remember to put the fuel filter back on and bolt it down.

Ground connection should be short as possible and kept away from the positive power lead. There is also no need to run ground all the way back to the battery.

Now that I've driven this truck for thousand miles already I noticed something else since the head work. My oil leaks have stopped. I had a weeping oil leak at the gearcase gasket between the block and the gearcase and it stopped. I use to have excessive slobber from the crankcase vent. Use to use about 2 quarts of oil in 7k miles. Now that has all stopped. The oil level seems to remain full and cleaner longer now.

Master ground... Black/Tan wire. This wire runs along with the alternator charge lead across the front of the engine and to the passenger battery post. There is NO OTHER GROUNDS to worry about. I see people tearing apart entire engine bay chasing grounds. Just make sure the passenger battery terminal is clean and tight. Or... Do the W-T ground wire mod... Now all the ECM, PCM and VP44 are grounded to the case and long ways from the alternator noise of the charge line.

When the ECM boots up and first up that normal to see that 1 to 2-second burst from the pump. I see at least you do have a protection relay and fuse setup so you have to have either FASS or AirDog. Still your pressure swing is too wide you need to look over the plumbing. Another thing I forgot about is when was the last filter change? This might impact the pressures too. Do you have the Adjustable pressure regulator or the old school ball and spring?

Might want to take a peek... He's even got his own forum. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

That happened to us back in the early 90's here in Idaho. We moved into the house and had a freak heavy winter and snap went a tree while MoparMom was sweeping the deck off. She was backpedaling to get around the other side of the house. The tree clipped the roof and land on the deck busting it all up and pulling the main power line off the house. Since then we've logged out around the house removing all trees that could be hazardous if they broke or fell. Trees are nice to shade the RV and areas of the property but that freak microburst, windstorm, or winter storm can change the dynamic of a healthy looking tree very quickly. Sorry to see that kind of damage done... At least you do have full coverage and hopefully, the RV just gets replaced.

First off I notice something that others didn't. You deleted the stock fuel filter can and fuel heater then proceeded to leave the intake manifold bolts out. You are taking a big risk of blowing out the intake gasket. Make sure to replace those bolts. Now looking closer you need to power wash that engine off with some good degreaser and inspect your injection lines. Some that hardware looks marginal at best. As for the Vacuum lines. Kind of goofy layout personally. One of these days I'm going to re-do my set up and use mostly air brake tubing and just small pieces of rubber vacuum hose. I hate the idea of everything just hanging there on the driver side. Most of this stuff could be routed to a fender, along the frame etc. Vacuum wise the only thing on our trucks is HVAC, Cruise control (auto's), CAD (early 2nd's), exhaust brakes (optional).

Too wide of a pressure swing. The pump is too small or the fuel lines are too restricted. Max swing should be only about 4 to 5 PSI. Even my 13-year-old AirDog 150 only has a 2-3 PSI swing from idle to WOT to well above 80 MPH. Cranking pressure is way too high. Pump should be modulated by the ECM for a 50% duty cycle and floating a mere 7 to 12 PSI normal while cranking. Since your pressure is this high it will cause the hard start hot problem. Check your power make sure you hooked up to the ECM and getting ECM modulation. My pressures: Idle 17 PSI WOT: 15 PSI Cranking 10-11 PSI bouncing.

So, since you don't have oversized tire and running the factory one-ton tires. I would have to say the Spicer name has let you down just like it did for @Me78569 he got short life from the spicer name brand as well.

Talk to @IBMobile he's working on a smog friendly grid heater switch. Not enough heat energy to light off the fuel. Grid heater heat the air in the manifold. So when the air is drawn in there is now enough heat energy to light the fuel.

The biggest thing is wheels and tires size. I've got 176k on my current ball joints and still tight.

I learned this stuff the hard way. I did the Vulcan Big Line Kit. Then relocated the stock Carter pump. Worked good but the pumps where junk. Then upgraded to AirDog 150 but ran in on the stock fuel sender but the pressures were very wild. Once I installed the draw straw I've had zero issues for 13 years and 250k miles. I've installed a few DDRP pumps for locals and all them failed the same way with pump failure. Calculated max flow at the open end of the stock banjo was like 50 GPH really sad to see performance 100 GPH pump pump choked to 50%.

At home I park in the garage which typically stays above freezing barely. Once on the road I could end up leaving the truck parked in subzero. I just cycle the grid heater twice and hit the starter. These are not Ford Powerstrokes that need block heater and battery charger to start in the cold.