Mopar1973Man

I think the ISB is a plastic cooling jets if I'm not mistaken. There is an upgrade for metal cooling jets.

Hankook ATm 245/75 R16 now. Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 previous set. 235's have done excellent in the past and extended the front suspension lifespan considerable. Now see how the 245's hold up to the test of time. Like I'm heading for 200k on these ball joints. 245's should extend the brake pad life. I can already tell the brake performance is better with the 245's over the 235's.

After just having my oil line off for the head gasket it was still clean.

Ummm... All Cummins engines have oil cooling jets.

Dealer or wrecking yard. At least it doesn't have to be a diesel just any 2nd Gen will work.

Yes. Like I said just set the fuel map for 100% across the board and your stock fuel rate. Then set the timing for what you want. Again you just want to inch up the timing just enough to reduce the engine load. MPG tune on stock fuel...

You got to start somewhere... Like my A/C business I did the right thing and hooked up with the local Chevron station which happens to be a NAPA supplier as well. Now they stock my freon for me and I sell it for there price. So, Steve Crump (the owner) makes money on the freon I make money on the labor. Being I've done him right (free A/C work) I still to this day get all his referrals which typically keeps me super busy to the winter time typically. Now my reputation from the website has kept me going with VP44 replacements and Cummins work for the last 5 years. Like I'll go meet up with a few people today and they will see the head job I've pulled off and gives people confidence in having me do the work for them on their vehicle. Basically, dive into your 24V Cummins now put in the effort into making it run perfect and beyond stock without failure. Like the thread about CR injector failures. When I go into Riggins, ID people spot my truck and typically grab me to ask a bunch of question on their trucks. Those 3 people were asking about starting and performance issues on CR engines. All 3 have failed injectors. It pissed them off but it is what it is.

Ummm... What to do you think I do? I do the very same thing. I also live in a rural community too. The closest diesel mechanic is 50 miles away. I've got my own area to work with doing odd jobs. Insurance? What the heck is that? Never had any. The scary part is "Mopar1973Man.Com" is a registered doing business as (DBA) name also have a sale tax ID with the state. This gives perks of being able to buy parts at wholesale prices.

You could just set the fuel map to 100% all the way and the Quadzilla is on a stock tune. Then you can play with timing too.

Level 0 = Stock ECM Level 1 = Valet Mode Level 2 = CANBus fuel only to 100% Level 3 = CANBus fuel Level 4 and up are wire tap MPG is about finding the lowest engine load with timing. Most will say 19 to 21 degree for timing will produce the lowest engine load.

Be thankful. 24V is fully dynamic timing. The 12V p-pump is static timing. So if you set a p-pump for 14 degree that is the timing you get across the full range of RPM. Where 24V with the Quadzilla you can get a max now of 32 degree across the full range of RPM. 24V way easier to time. Fire up the Quadzilla. As for the P-pump you have to have the timing kit. Basically remove the #1 delivery valve on the pump measure the lift of the plunger. You have to pull the gear and relocated it on the shaft and tighten the nut without turning the pump shaft. Timing kit isn't cheap either. DAP timing kit. https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Thanks for mention of the vent. Lot of people forget the vent.

Better get out the checkbook for tools. Being that all tuning is mechanical this means you need the proper tools for setting timing, etc. You thought your 24V is retarded the 12V factor timing was around 11 to 14 degrees with no advancement. Most have to advance the timing to improve the performance. Fuel wise its done with fuel plates and adjustments. DAP has adjustment for the fuel plate for in cab.

The only problem I've got is a minor fuel leak that is at the rear. Either number 5 or 6 line. I also want to replace the sealing washers on the return banjo.

2WD where you live? I say no. You'll end up parking it most of the winter or running chains.

The problem is... Speedometer signal requires the PCM to start the CCD network. Then the ABS computer has to be left installed and all speed sensors. PCM start the network and ECM can call the network for speed signal. Without the PCM the CCD network is dead and ECM is just only an engine module now. No DTC code reading either. I know in the OP condition he's most likely grid heater deleted. But without the ABS the grid heater will not shut off with road speed so the grid heater run on till it times out on the ECM. There is a lot of weird information trade between modules but PCM must be present for the CCD Bus to function.

With twin turbos, there is no way to avoid the noise I'm sure.

That will work out awesome. 245/70 R19.5 comes out at 3.93:1 final ratio using 265/75 R16 as the stock tire size and 4.10 axle gears.

Make sure you look at your gear ratio and final ratio because tire size does impact MPG and economy greatly.

Barely hear the whistle... 21* degree of timing really keeps that turbo quiet and boost low.

Here you go...

Do you have a security key fob? It's possible the truck is preventing start because the truck thinks its still locked. Is there any other error codes? Might give clues to CCD network issues or power issues. The fuel pump relay if it fails will toss a P1689 code and the truck won't start but the VP44 will start if hot wired. ASD Relay issues? I know this rare but its possible the ASD relay is clicking or preventing start up. P0606 code? That is an ECM death code and most likely will not start. Wait To Start light coming on instantly? If the wait to start light doesn't come on the ECM is not booted up and the fuel pump relay will not energize the VP44 so the pump will not start either. This is another form of ECM failure typically around the RAM being bad. All hi or lo volt codes. Another type of failure of the ECM where the 5V signal fails and could prevent starting. But again there will be a long list of error codes.

I kind of knew the answer from most was drill hole a hole drop it through the hole in the cowl. The other was to beat a dent in the body so the stud would pass. Neither are solutions I wanted to use. So I thought about it and answer my own question. Either the engine would have to drop or the cab would have to rise. Being the engine mount would have to be unbolted and lining it back up might be a PITA so knowing the cab is on rubber mounts you can flex a quarter inch from the cab. I will note that when you place your body weight on the front bumper to reach over you might gain a bit more. So be careful on how much you lift then put your body weight up there.

Second up would be Vulcan Performance. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/151-vulcan-performance/