Mopar1973Man

Ummm... I was born and raised in Los Angeles, CA. Didn't leave there until I was 20 years old. Now I'm 48 this year. Now I'm just another crazy Idaho redneck. I left California for that reason. Crazy libtards.

You've got it... Jack up the frame and let the axle hang free. You might have to adjust the axle height with a floor jack a bit to align the bolt again. I've done control arm replacements but typically I do it one control arm at a time.

OMG I was laughing my for that one...

Better??? Flipped horizontally... Mirrored... Now in the passenger seat or you think I am...

I'm surprise they (EPA) are so picky that an air horn has to be factory... OMG. EPA needs to calm down...

I'm still on the bet it the rotor are either cracked in the slots and deforming as they heat up causing the knocking noise. Again you'll have to pull the rotors and have them check for runout and cracks. Even if the runout is good you could still have a crack that only deforms with braking heat causing the knocking noise. You could have him send a set of rotors but being slotted they will most likely do the same thing again.

Kind of like the 2005 Dodge 3500 I was supposed to finish out but end up with Moparmom's medical issues. That truck the owner had a bad injector(s) heard it knocking and continued to drive it home. Next morning it wouldn't start he had clearly wiped out at least 1 or 2 cylinders. Just barely crossed 112k on the clock original mileage POOF! Ate the engine for at least 5k worth of damage. Needed to cylinders sleeved then at that point might as well rebuild the entire engine. Then plus the injectors on top of the 5k. Ughh... Sad I had to have him tow it out of here being I'm taking care of MoparMom dialysis treatments.

Actually driver seat. (Strange flip of the picture) When it's over 90*F outside you park in the sun trapped with the truck running so you have A/C and trying to work the website from the center console and smack out replies isn't exactly comfortable. Now I'm at home and comfortable in my big chair and normal keyboard and mouse. Back to @KATOOM As for the power steering system, I don't see any problem with doing a filter just remember this will need to be changed with the fluid every 30k miles. As for the drain plug if there was a way to drill and tap a plug in would be awesome it sure would make short work of drain, flush and fill. All I can say is the 30k mark worked out good for my steering box it was spotless inside no sludge and no serious wear at all just the input seal failed from rust particles. Kind of like my next problem of getting reservoir seal for my power steering pump. Rubber is starting to degrade... Ugh!

From my past experience... I did the stock headlights plus four 100w aircraft landing lights. This worked for a while till the aircraft landing lights gone up in price and the lifespan went down to about 6 to 9 month and your buying all 4 bulbs again. So at $22 a bulb that $88 bucks a set or $176 worth per year. Then I did the sport headlights with the relay mod. That didn't last a year. The light pattern sucked bad. Even with the Aircraft lights backing them up it still sucked. The pattern wasn't where it needed to be. The secondary bulbs basically where a thin vertical band of light. Didn't add much to the high at all. The main bulb was OK but the pattern was scattered badly. Then I upgraded to the Morimoto's. During the time of the ordering, I talk to the gent at Retro Shop and ask him the differences between bulbs, lens, etc. When I had mine done I had the upgraded D2S lens used. Now those put out serious light. I'm at least 20 foot out from the edges of the highway so the ditch line is lit up good on both sides. On high beam the beam is capable of reaching 50 feet tall in the distance. The Morimoto has an absolute cut off shutter so you are not blinding oncoming traffic. Still at this point I had the aircraft lights... Finally started losing bulbs on the driving lights. Instead of dropping another $88 buck for 6 months of light I jump to the PIAA LED driving lights. Now, these things are bad . They are actually brighter than the Morimoto HID's. The light is so bright on a snow-covered road you need to turn them off. The wicked part is they are just a mere 18w load... Tiny compared to even stock 55w halogens. Might be a lot of money but... No longer am I shelling out dollars trying to fix these weak headlights with another mod or weak idea. If I totaled up all the money spent on aircraft landing bulbs, sport headlights, the custom-made relay mod, etc. I could have paid off the whole thing if I did it first thing. Yeah, I could of saved some money on shipping standard freight and if I wimped out and had the H! mini lens used. Then I would have been down to about $800.

Finally it has been done. Fresh rubber in 245/75 R16. Ill admit the trucks much better and steering is lighter with 245 compared to the 235s. Running the Hankook ATm again being I'm getting 60 k to 65k from a set. I'm ready for winter time bring it on.

I would talk to @Dynamic he's our site transmission guru. I'm going to bet there is a torque converter issue.

No. There isn't but it would be nice to have on there... Give me a break in working from the front seat of the truck.

You mean a drain plug in the steering gear box. That would drain every bit of fluid quickly.

Between the Morimoto D2S and the PIAA 530 LED's you're looking at $1,000 in lighting... The Morimoto went up in price with the D2S lens versus the H1 Mini's that most use. Then 2 day freight... https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO

Looks like a normal light to me... Yeah spendy... But mine where a package deal everything assembled just install. I upgraded to the Morimoto D2S lens.

Still remember even with the filter you still need to change the fluid every 30k miles. Then while you're there might as well change the filter. I've got to ask what did you pay for the filter?

...or some of us went to 35w HID headlights. Then 18w watt LED driving lights.

Known problem mine is the same way. I'm also running expensive ISSPro EV2 boost gauge.

Suction lines will never leak outwards or drip they will constantly suck air in allowing fuel to return to the tank causing loss of prime. In other words if air is introduced the injectors will not fire. Air is compressible.

I'm getting ready to send my OEM stock injectors in and get new nozzles and popped on the high side 310 to 315 bar. Closing in on 100k miles on these 7 x0.0085 injectors.

Synthetic oil are not required. Most of the big milestone guys are strictly petroleum oils. I suggest you get the oil pressure tested.

Finally, I'll be looking into replacing the power steering pump. Not that it quit pumping. The reservoir is leaking. The seal between the pump body and reservoir can is weeping fluid out and leaving signs of power steering fluid on the floor after a night.

All I can say is call and ask.

Standard greasable NAPA U-Joint (SKF)

Truth...