Mopar1973Man

The only thing I can say is to verify the CCD network is plugged into the overhead module. Without the CCD network the overhead computer can get any data from ABS, PCM or the ECM. ABS controls the speed and distance. The PCM sends the fuel level signal and the ECM sends the fuel consumption rate. The sad part is the MPG part is typically way off the mark because it only calibrated for stock injectors and no tuner.

Bingo. Again this is a problem both Edge juice and Quadzilla both have in using the boost information from the MAP sensor. Being there is 3 different MAP sensors used and at least two different versions of ECM software used for boost information it does make things a bit of a mess. The only thing the Quadzilla does is verify the sensor is working. As for accuracy I wouldn't suggest use the Quadzilla for boost readings.

Very True. If the wrong bar was installed that is too short then the axle will pull to the driver side. The only other cause is someone installed a leveling kit. This will push the axle downwards away from the frame at the same time pull on the trackbar to the driver side. I'm sad to admit I watch my boss install a lift kit on a Ford and we pulled the track bar loose to get the spring low enough to install the spacers. When we tried to install the track bar again it was too short and the axle had to be pulled to the driver side with a come-a-long to get the axle bolt in. I told my boss that was right... But still sent the truck home.

Mine is close to right on down low but skews as boost pressure go up. This why I tend to use my a-pillar gauges more so than Quadzilla display. Quadzilla isn't the only one with this issue. Edge Juice does too.

Can you hold your old bar up next to the new one and verify the bar length?

Track bar is either too long or too short causing the axle placement to be wrong.

By the time you pay the $4k for the pump conversion and install it. I'll have enough money to purchase a MILLION miles worth of VP44's and meet you at the other side. But even p-pumps don't last forever either and do wear out as well. Could be worse just by 2003 or newer truck and have to replace $4k worth of injectors every 100k to 150k miles. VP44 pales by far to the cost of CR injectors.

Go here and purchase the free key to unlock. https://mopar1973man.com/store/category/11-special-forum-topics/

Either that you got the wrong track bar. The track bar is the only thing that holds the left to right position of the axle.

Are you using a levelling kit? Just remove the levelling kit and the axle will be centered once again. Other than that you need an adjustable track bar to make up the change in geometry.

This is a reason why I don't look at boost pressure on Quadzilla and have ISSPro gauges that are accurate. The MAP sensor is known to be inaccurate for boost reading. Use a mechanical gauge to verify.

Bottle jack and one side at time would be me. Unbolt the mount from the engine and pull them up.

Figure out your final gearing to the ground. More you get the final to the ground between 3.55 to 3.73 is optimal. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ Rotational mass does play a role in this too. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html Optimal IAT is 100 to 140*F...

Very bad idea. For sure have AC noise problem. The noise filter needs to be removed and chucked in the trash and fix the actual problem. Replace the alternator and do the W-T ground mod.

Typically 55 MPH is 1-2 PSI of boost and roughly 16% engine load. Now at 65 MPH 2-3 PSI of boost and roughly 19 to 20% engine load. EGT's are still under 600*F for both speeds. I still think those 285 tires and final gearing don't help. Most likely too low of a final gear ratio to the ground.

Hmmm... Nice stereo. Might have to look into that Joying 8 inch looks like it fits good.

Sound like there is a lot of drag. Typical idle EGT's is like 250°F for me.

Cleaning sensors will do nothing. IAT has no purpose with Quadzilla tuner. IAT has no effect with the Quadzilla active. Need to slow down and get the EGTs under 600F. Also proper timing will help.

All you gotta do is hook up with me I'll teach you all I know. The biggest thing is being willing to pick up where I leave off anf continue to teach yourself. Because if I based it only on the degree I got from ITT Tech back in the day I would be lost today. When I went to college the Intel 8088 processor was just coming out for general public use. Here I am today self-taught server admin. Who would of thunk right?

That's awesome! I wish it was in my truck all assembled, not my garage. Dream on...

https://youtube.com You can host your videos there and not worry about file size.

Might be but when finding true lead/tin solder is getting tough. At least for me locally. All this EPA safe stuff is a joke.

I was just using acid core flux on doing my alternator cable. The flux is what cleans the wire metal to make the solder weld to the wire. The flux part typically is an acid material to remove all oxidation on the wire. No. Typically yes. Again the flux part is to make the solder bind to the wire metal. Has nothing to do with corrosion protection.

Dec. 11, 2018 was my first night of running the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 215 tires on snow. All I can say is WOW! These things really bite the pavement even with a snow-covered highway. It snowing pretty good on the way home that little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 ran great with the 215/85 R16 tires. Came to Fort Hall Grade and was count all the car and truck slid off the highway there were 6 vehicles all slid off the highway most with wide tires. I was still running 2WD. After seeing about 3 of then I pull the transfer case into 4WD. Still, in all, I was still cruising 45 to 50 MPH and it was snow good. Broke over the top of the grade and down the backside still awesome control. Grabbed the O/D off button let the truck unwind down the grade. Hit the bottom of the valley and went back to overdrive and 45 to 50 MPH speeds. This is the best this little truck has ever run in the snow!