Mopar1973Man

Then some of us topping out at 40-45 PSI with ISSPro EV2 boost gauge. This why I'm not a fond believer of the using the sensor on the engine for reading existing information like boost. The actual design range of the sensor is very low and not really designed to be above the 20-25 PSI mark. Because design wise the ECM would limp mode and defuel and throw the P0234 code. Now Quadzilla still does use the MAP for boost above but like my set up the gauge vs. Quad start to skew going up from 25 PSI and above. I'm using 2001 Map Sensor. Things should really get nuts when my 7 x 0.010 injectors (320 bar popped) get here...

No. Only Winterized #2 diesel fuel. Kerosene and some 2 cycle oil is a safe bet though. Band-aid but still usable.

Either electrically the sensor or wiring causing or the tone wheel failed. Like mine had a cliff at about 30 MPH and the RF signal would drop to zero. ABS would go nuts back pumping preventing me from stopping. Install new SKF wheel bearing and problem is gone.

Couple of winters I've been really close to the idea of buying a gallon of kerosene for anti-gel.

Now that I'm at home with a PC...

Boost fooler being used on the MAP sensor side? That will prevent the boost from going higher. ECM side should never reach 19-20 PSI if so then the defuel software kicks in. The only way to see real boost is Quadzilla or external boost gauge. Quazilla does the same thing, the ECM will hold back to about 16 PSI and ECM continues to fuel like a crazed mule that way.

Sensor needs about 5 foot of tubing from the snubber. The travel distance helps with stability and protect the sensor. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator you want to cycle the screw full loose, full tight, the reset you pressures. Some times the regulator sticks. Check ball and spring. It possible the spring was bent in a manner the prevents the check ball to stay centered. Then you'll get that random drop. I'm currently in this boat.

I would consider PacBrake more so over BD. Look at the one with the double valve.

You are missing a ground then. Take notice there is two ground leads on the headlight switch which the fog lamps have there own ground leg.

Out here typically all gasoline is black. Diesel is green and even the hose is green.

You might want to look up the MSDS sheets for most of the cetane and anti-gel products and you'll find out its just as bad as gasoline. Xylene, Naptha, and other common chemicals. This is one reason why I favor true oil additives over stuff like PowerService that doesn't contain any lube oil at all. A true lubricant can be left to the air forever and it will remain oil. Now leave PowerService exposed to the air it will evaporate and turn to sticky tar base goo. If you are worried about gasoline just drop a 1 quart shot of 2 cycle oil to the fuel. DO NOT use ATF!!!!

Thank you for the kind comments...

Seat heater has an open circuit. Typically you have to replace the heater element in the seat.

If can grab a DVM or test light and test for power at the bulb plug and see if the power is going out. Need to figure out is it the +12V going away or is the ground missing at the outage times. This will help me figure out the next step. Being the bulb is the electrical load and you need a POS and NEG power source.

"The Worlds Greatest Group of Cummins Minds" all in one spot on the internet... The more you hang around and talk to people you learn so much and there are so many resources at your fingertips.

That right there points to bad fuse which is weird. Typically a fuse will heat slightly with the load and then open if its cracked then slowly cool and then close and then the light will come back on.

I'm hoping he gets the final product made. It actually reads all the data on the CCD network. I'm hoping he adds the high idle on and off switch too in the future.

Thank you for the wonderful comments for the M73M site and gang... I would contact @Dynamic and talk to Jon about this. I'm sure he can help sort this out for you. Jon is an awesome transmission guy and extremely knowledgeable.

@Marcus2000monster Have you pulled the bulbs and checked the sockets and the filaments? It's possible for the filament to break and vibrate causing the same thing to happen with flicker.

@Marcus2000monster I created a support ticket to Chris O so he should get the message and I also linked him to the post above.

Give the dealer a call and ask them. Another would be ask Chris O about it he should know.

Might double check AC noise from the alternator. AC noise will foul and effect all sensors.

Trust me you tell the gang you want to spend money they will do it for ya. I would suggest looking at the vendors we work with and let them know you coming from M73M site and might be able to gain some bonus on prices.

@pepsi71ocean Trust me this man can do serious tricks in making the 47RE transmission do all kinds of magical things!

Finally wore the timing piston out and no longer can set timing properly. Now after it warms up can you reset the code? I'm wondering if the piston is galling up or deformed the cylinder when cold it binding up but after the pump has some heat does it straighten out? You might be able to buy some time do a double shot of 2 cycle oil and see what happens.