Mopar1973Man

Give Bitsy some time and it won't be bitsy for long.

Could you fill in your signature so we know what year of truck and any modifications you've done.

@IBMobile has an awesome setup with the 245's and 4.10 gears. That is geared so perfect for towing especially with 47RE with 0.68 OD ratio.

When your retarded too deep the engine gets super quiet, power is low and the exhaust smoke becomes more white or bluish in color. That particular adjustment is for when you from light to heavy throttle at low boost (less than 5 PSI). Look for my article in the 2nd Gen 24V fuel section. Even Spencer liked it.

With both disconnected yet. Red probe to a sensor pin (one of the 3) then the black to ground to double check for shorts to ground. It should show OPEN circuit for all three. If any wire shows resistance to ground then you got a short on your hands. The test requires both ends disconnected.

What kind of cool about the Quadzilla you can play with that. Now being your are stock injectors you could always change the offset of the ramp up. Sam span of on PSI but start out 1.5, 3.0, 4.5, 6.0, etc That will change the steepness of fuel curve.

Thank you, sir, for the wonderful comment there. It does take a lot to do what I'm doing. MoparMom is the only family I've got left. No brothers, no sisters. As for Aunts or Uncles I've got some but talk to them since I was a little boy. I'm not even sure if they are still alive. You guys (your family too) is more or less my extended family now. There is few of you that I've met in person then there is most likely about 100 of you that I get phone calls on a regular basis. Most of you I've never met but talk to you on the forum or the phone enough times you like family to me.

I'm petless at the moment. You all remember "Diesel" the Doberman, right?

Not normal. I run typically a high coolant temp of 220F going all out hauling my 8k pound Jayco. Normal conservative driving I bare break over 212F for coolant and about 170F transmission temp in summer heat. Pyro I've got enough fuel to tag 1,400F but conservative and using Quadzilla on Level 3 I struggle to get to 1,200F.

On fueling to build a quick curve. 0 to 5 +1 each PSI 6 to 10 +2 each PSI 11 to 15 +3 each PSI 20 to 25 +4 each PSI Etc. Just use the starting number like @Me78569 suggest and use that to ramp it up.

Hard to rest up. In still driving 250 miles 3 days a weak. Like right now I'm in Ontario. Be heading home soon into a snow storm. Be home by about 7:30pm tonight. Still even with what happened to me Mom still needs dialysis treatments.

Low pop pressure means advanced timing. Then being you don't have a tuner the ECM cranks up another +4 degrees advancement. Yes MPG fooler prevents that +4 jump in timing. Then lower pop pressure means early injection event. This why when you raise pop pressure above 310 bar you now start regarding timing and possible make it difficult starting because retarding.

Typically timing advancement is what makes the knock. Retarding makes it quiet typically.

More exciting when you been driving the 5 speed then hop in an auto and stab the brake pedal for a clutch to shift and grabbing that ghost stick.

@01cummins4ever be careful I might have to call you when I'm bummed out and need a voice to talk to...

Funny stuff... The only problem either it's misspelled or its a different Michael or Micheal...

At this point I'm letting @Me78569 make the lead decisions for the site. I'm hanging around to give guidance so when I'm down and out the BoDs will be in control. Part of my agreement back when the BoD was created.

Matter of fact what I typically suggest is the master and slave cylinder from NAPA. The go through the bleed process. This way you build the system from the ground up and have it bled out before you install the system and it typically works the first time without issues. I've built my system twice this way and work the first time each time.

He had me laughing on the phone. Yes, I did get his joke. As for that, I've been trying my best to eat the best I can with all the road time. I typically can resist cold and flu bugs rather well I've got a strong immunity being I only had one minor cold last winter. I'm typically pretty good about keeping up with a multi-vitamin and just trying to eat the best I can on the road. I look at it a bit differently. The Good Lord gave me the talent to share with the world. I'm doing exactly that. I see that it will be the family members of the M73M that going help me through this. Basically, see it in reverse. I created the vibration, but the vibrations of the family members here are going to give me the strength to overcome this. I've already talked to @JAG1 , @IBMobile and @dripley . All these wonderful people have been taking the stress off my mind and allowing me to relax. Again thank you all!

Are you using the right length of control arms? It's possible that as the lift kit is pushing the axle down a bit more and rotating the axle forward changing the angles of the camber. Remember the lift kit not lifting the truck off the axle... It actually pushes the axle down away from the frame pivoting the axle forward as the axle drops. That pivot occurs from the length of the control arms. I would make sure the axle relation is like the factory height and not rolled forward.

I don't suggest the upgraded hydraulics. Most people think its great because it's adjustable and already assembled and bled. The problem is adjustable it's very possible to hyperextend the throw-out bearing past the fingers of the pressure plate and destroy a clutch quickly. The other downside is you still end up bleeding that system again because air bubbles tend to get back in from shipping and handling.

Might want to talk to @Me78569. He said if I drop dead he'll just sell the M73M website to the highest bidder... Thanks...

Try a Blue Top... Good steering box.

The biggest thing is just to make sure MoparMom gets her treatment.