Mopar1973Man

Little extreme. Looks stellar for getting it all on a terminal strip. Could have just stripped all the wires, stuffed a single ring terminal and soldered the ring terminal to the wires. Then bolted back directly to the fender. The insulated terminal strip has a bad side is that now all these independent connections has full exposure to water and oxidation. It will work but comes at a price that more exposed metal to water and air will oxidize faster. This is why the factory had it all jammed in a ring terminal soldered. Less, exposed area to the elements.

As for the fuel pressure sensor. My sensors is a good distance from the tap point, snubber back at the tap point. As my boost and fuel pressure are mounted on the fender forward of the ABS module. This is an ABSOLUTE NO-NO... Even if there was a snubber before it still a NO-NO. NEVER install the sensor at the VP44. The pulses are still extremely strong and ruin the fuel pressure sensors. There must be at LEAST 5 foot of tubing from the tap point and snubber to the sensor.

Mine was a bit different no real rust but it was dark/blackish looking. Unmolested picture after the head was removed.

Then a guy like me with my stock looking truck comes along and steals your chick because I just whipped you in street race with 245's tires. Seriously, I've surprised a lot of people with my truck, the perfect street sleeper. I got it to admit it was nice to hop back in the saddle yesterday got to the I-84 kick the pig and roasted the tires in 3rd, hit 4th hopping, nailed 5th and was hitting over 80 MPH before the end of the on-ramp after being in the hospital for 3 days. There was a post back aways back... Well, yeah everyone thinks it looks cool. I do as well it does look pretty darn good. There are forces of leverage that cause huge issues with the front axles with larger tires and wheel offsets. The final gear ratio gets altered without any considerations. This why people like DOR exist is to get the parts upgrades to hold larger tires without damage. Then the gear ratio issue most dismiss but end up eating transmissions and drivelines because of the torque trapping you do with final gear ratios below 3.55. Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground. Most add tires and end up in the 3.00 to 3.20 realm which is too low.

Ok, being I support Smarty as well I've got to be honest and show the numbers. Now Smarty Touch and the Smart S-03 for the 24v are still only a +60HP tuner. The only Smarty tuner that can meet Quadzilla at tuneability is the Smarty Touch (or Smarty MM3) but the price on the Touch or MM3 is $1,724.00 for the complete kit getting Touch, Pyrometer probe, Dongle to unlock the software (UDC Pro software), ComMod to allow on the fly adjustments (like the Quadzilla). Now compare to Quadzilla at $675.00 it's a +180HP tuner and that covers everything you need. Pyrometer comes with the kit where Smarty Pyro is an extra cost. Custom made DAP injectors. DAP 7x0.010 injector nozzles on my stock OEM bodies. I requested 320 bar for pop pressure typically the 7 x0.010 are set for 305 bar. Keep in mind the bottom limit is 293 bar and the injector pop pressure is TOO LOW. Yeah, it does allow more fuel flow but the automation efficiency is lost. Then longevity is lost too because the injector will settle out about 10 bar in the first 10k to 20m miles. The extra pressure give more mileage to the longevity and efficiency like my 7 x 0.0085 injectors @ 305 bar didn't even make a full 100k miles around 70k miles and the MPG fell off. Keep in mind stock pop pressure is 310 bar.

Ok. I noticed something in this picture. Just looking at the coolant port forward right that looks to be coolant failure of the gasket. Coolant wasn't flushed often enough. I want you to pay close attention to that front corner. Part of the failure is coolant and the other one the typical head curl. Over time the heating and cooling cycles creates head curl stretching the stock head bolts on the ends of the head. The visible rust in that corner is oxidation either by the coolant getting too old and pH dropped or the coolant was mixed too water heavy.

7 x 0.010 @320 bar works good so far. Still needs more beta test with others. This is not absolute bet yet. For me no issues to report.

Quadzilla much better tuner over a Smarty better timing control and fuel management. As injectors get larger more timing us needed. Just the Quadzilla, boost elbow, and stock injectors will be darn close to 300 realm. Based on tires and wheels. Larger tire trap power hence why I went to 30 inch tires. 150 GPH pump is needed for big power fuel pressure stability.

Everyone here has been wonderful. Very helpful and nice. I've been given the green light to go home. Catheter was removed this morning.

Don't install the K&N. Get BHAF. Optimal IAT temp is 90F to 140F. Cold air will degrade MPG below 80F. Quadzilla will get you the ballpark pretty quick. I'm in the 500 HP range now. (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar).

Big mistake most do is install the fuel pressure sensor at the VP44. This will kill it in a short order. Like mine it's got 5 foot of air brake line from the snubber to the sensor. This allows time for the pulses to fade.

@IBMobile Gotta pick on me. Finally allowed to get up and walk on my own. Nice to get up and move. Like my nurse just came in. So yeah I've got some cuties. My other nurse...

I've got to ask do you have a water separator or prefilter before the pump?

White smoke is a sign of retarded timing. Typically seen with P0216 code possibly. Just remember Quadzilla does not change any idle fuel or timing.

Lets say I've had enough bed rest. I'm ready to go home. I get released tomorrow.

As of today. Doctor said my pathology came back good and clean. Fighting some bleeding and cotton issues. Doing better now. Got out of bed and walked the halls for two laps. Still hurting but healing. Got one more surgery left. Got a bit of scar tissue or tumor in the right ureter which needs to be cut out. Stitch the two halfs back together. At this time both kidneys are functional and healing.

Auto is a switch near the pan. Man the reverse switch is near the shift tower.

Yeap. Same driver to passenger.

Keep going... I want to see the cylinders and pistons. When you lift the head look at the gasket, block and the head.

Between the pain meds and sleep meds I'm half out of it. The port in my lower right of my back hurts pretty good. I need to get to my feet some point today. Still dealing with bleeding but I'm alive. I've even got to see some of my old nurses from previous time. I'm in good hands.

Last night they managed to get the stent in my right ureter. Got some good rest. I'm up early but sore. Still bleeding yet. I'm in good hands and be well taken care of.

Got lucky they got the stent in my right kidney. Also got the drain bag for now but they got the stent in. Took only 30 minutes with a local.

Yes the PDC fuse will no longer be used.

All my mods... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

I'm alive. Still with you all. I'm holding my own. Ill get out of here by tomorrow. But ill have tubes hanging off me for a week.