Mopar1973Man

In just 3 days I've clocked over 800 miles. This tank I'm figuring 21 to 22 MPG. 7 x 0.010 injectors and Quadzilla. It will be worth it to follow along for tour weekly mileage.

How about a failed 12V fuel solenoid relay. That is the only thing I've seen with contacts that big. (Hint... Look at the forum its posted in... )

2 years ago I did a clutch just near New Years on my truck and that sucked still being the shop floor is still cold. The wood stove cranked up so when you stood up your about fried to death in 80 to 90*F room temp. The raced to get back to where it was cool on the floor.

I've gotten used to drinking an 8 oz mug of water and apple cider vinegar with 2 cap fulls.

I'm trying to get @IBMOBILE-JEN to jump in the mix too. She is a wealth of knowledge. She is a very intelligent person with herbalistic healing.

I'm doubtful. I've seen guys pull bread truck engines and stuff them in Dodge body. They look the same and typically no big differences. The only thing is the Dodge ECM and PCM has to be used. The VP44 itself is a dumb pump. The PSG unit on the pump only has 3 jobs. Set fuel amount (duration) Set timing (BTDC degrees) Report any errors back to the ECM.

I've got brand new dual fuel smoker, cowboy Grill brand new in the box. Just lack the time. 39 hours a week driving.

The key number is stamped on the body of the pump and the key itself. It can be checked but it means removing the pump to see the numbers.

This is the first time I've seen this comment. Way too many jumps on the synthetic bandwagon and attempt to extend out too far and cause more damage than the old petroleum based oils. Because of the enhanced cost of synthetic oils, most people are more prone to keeping the oil in service longer than it should. Regardless you need to check the fluid condition, color, smell, etc. Then make it a point change the fluid in something isn't right. Don't attempt to hang on to expensive synthetic fluids than are possibly washed out.

Let's see what you report. Make sure to check the RPM with a fully warmed engine.

With all the talk of herb ideas I created a forum for that now. Look down at the bottom of the forum list.

Don't do LED bulbs. All you'll do is blind everyone. LED headlights are not designed for our headlights so the pattern shows too. Buy a new set of clear lens headlights and install good halogen bulbs. This is the cheapest option. Or like myself I've upgraded to full Morimoto HID D2S headlights. They come with a steep price tag but worth every penny. https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO Since I didn't have driving lights I added a set of PIAA 530 LEDs driving lights. These little lights are brighter than the main HID headlights. Again another steep price tag but worth every penny. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/147-LP-530-Driving-LED-Light-Kit.aspx Then I swapped out both tail lights and the marker lights for LEDs. Then did a switchback bulb in the front. This even adds light out there. This is optional but the front markers in the white light stag cast quite a bit of light. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3157-switchback-led-bulb-dual-function-60-smd-led-tower-a-type-wedge-retrofit-car/1916/4478/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/7523/

About right. 20 and below is about right on the money abut reaching above 20 PSI you can toss the data out the window. The sensors skew more as it rises in pressure.

No problem.

Are we talking seal unit bearing type or cone and race bearings?

Here you go...

Just like you got it. The corrected engine load is fine. That means it took 100% fuel to get you rolling at a mere 25% throttle. Drag?

Interesting... Back to the OP make sure to log you MPG's and base your adjustments on MPG records. I think it was your VGT turbo which dropped the boost low at cruise speeds allowing for the timing to make up with the lack of boost. Where most of us with normal turbos are already in the boost pressure at 75 MPH and bove and need to cut timing back do to the boost pressure aiding in the ignition quality.

I'm using Libre Office which comes with Ubuntu Linux 18.04. No longer a fan of Microsoft products. https://www.libreoffice.org/ Light throttle timing should be based on your flat highway running at a MAX of 65 MPH. Take note of the engine load you want to add maybe 1-2% more than your flat highway engine load. Anything below 65 MPH should hit the cruise timing. Don't attempt to set for speeds higher this will lower MPG number. Anything above 65 MPH should be on the performance timing, not cruise timing. My typical engine load at 65 MPH is 20% I've set my last tune for 22%. 55 cruise load is 15% to 17% which is awesome and can easily keep the cruise state for speeds less than 65 MPH. Idle engine load is about 11% to 12% only 5% more than idle to keep rolling at 55 MPH I've noted instant MPG at about 24 to 26 MPG.

Might look at my tune and see what you'll get. My last tank was 20.3 MPG. Twisting enough torque to spin the tires if you get too deep into the throttle passing. Lots of power. The top end come up flat which is fine it is holding the EGT's down to mere 1,100°F to 1,200°F but you already wound up when it flattens out the power. I've not quite released this yet still cleaning up the tune more. iQuad-Economy-2019-04-05-07.30.5845649020.json

Both? A transmission that is slipping excessively can produce excessive heat, work energy wasting in slipping parts convert work into heat and translates to lower MPG. OBDII live tool should be part of your home tool kit. Extremely cheap and work with most Smart Phones. Like I've got a OBDLink LX series which is sold for $49 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=obdlink+lx&qid=1554436859&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1 Manufacture site. http://www.obdlink.com/

This is a herbal pill I'm taking for my blood pressure. My doctor stated that I've got high blood pressure. I took the matter into my own hands and started taking hawthorn berry after my first surgery. My doctor isn't exactly agreeing with my use of hawthorn berry. What I see is my blood pressure is in the 117 to 123 range on the high side and 65 to 73 on the low side. I'm right at the normal blood pressure right now. I'll say I'm taking 3 150mg capsules (6am, noon, 6pm). Any others out there using hawthorn?

Could also be clutch problems too. The direct and overdrive clutches could be worn too.

OBDII coder reader will typically only provide error codes. OBDII live data tool typically will show all sensors it can plus error codes. Two tools that look nearly the same but are different in many ways.

Now I know that Jennifer @IBMobile wife is the one that suggests that I start taking vinegar in my diet. I would like to get more information going on this.