Mopar1973Man

Read your error codes... Use a OBDII reader of some sort.

Funny, how very few people even know me. Out here thieves are too broke. The break the glass and break the lock. I'm banking on that the Quadzilla make it unattractive and they leave the truck behind. Weak stock truck.

All on the same fuse and wire. It's a pink wire.

IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse is in the cab. Driver side fuse. The IOD is listed on the fuse cover.

I got a phone call bright and early this morning from the Chevron down in Riggins, ID (Steve Crump). He explained that the ambulance crew last night had a double back to back to run. When the crew got back to Riggins, ID they always load with fuel and restock. At 1am things can get a bit foggy and confused. The driver loaded the nearly empty ambulance with gasoline. It's a 6.0L Ford Power Stroke Diesel. They left the ambulance at the fuel pump for the night. Told Steve that I'd be down in about an hour. I got myself together and hauled for Riggins, ID. The ambulance was still at the fuel pump. I pulled up and unrolled my new tow strap. Hitched up and towed the ambulance from the fuel pump to the side of the building. I proceeded to siphon out the fuel from the filler neck to 5-gallon buckets and using Chevron station for disposing of the waste fuel. The Chevron station uses the fuel for there waste oil heater. Just an added bonus for them. Once we were done draining we then pushed the ambulance backward a few feet and turned it back towards the fuel pumps to fill it with fresh diesel fuel. Like I told Fred the driver that always grab the GREEN handle. I save the Riggins, Idaho Ambulance.

IOD fuse. That's it..

I like the idea of being headless in town that way the truck is seen as a stock truck. None the wiser. Using my cellphone I don't normally watch the iQuad unless I'm working at correcting a tune issue or using it for diagnostics. Typically I just continue to use my a-pillar gauges and go headless. I prefer it doesn't. This way I can set the tune for level 1 and lock the truck down and there is no way for a thief to figure out how to defeat it. This comes back to a problem with the screen once you have a hardwired display that security feature is dead. ANYONE will be able to tune up the level and defeat the Level 1 lock out.

I wish I could make those. Be a handy tool for the 2nd Gen guys.

Kind of cool looking... "Mini-Me" turbo on the dash.

One thing I'm glad I don't have on my truck. Yeah it's cool that you have a security feature from the factory but where do you buy the parts for 17 year old truck now? Is there anyone at a dealer that still knows how to operate a DRBIII tool for 17 year old trucks?

Not really, they more prone to warping and cracking. The solid OEM rotors are way better than any of the slotted and drilled rotors. More metal and thicker structure to hold up to heating and cooling cycles better. Oh, the other trick is to use economy brake pads with the lowest amount of metallics. This will prevent it from eating the rotors. Stay away from ceramic brake pads they will eat the rotors before the brake pads. An exhaust brake is highly suggested for people that tow.

Old ISX back in the day bought one similar to that for his 12V.

Sorry I meant to add the not but did that post from my cellphone...

Using is easy. Just drive the truck. Tuning... Now that takes a bit of thought. Then program. Test it out. The test some more. Edit and change your tune. Test some more. Its never ending. As for idle you mention. Quad should NOT affect idle speed, timing or anything that should strictly ECM.

I've got to ask what injectors are you running? How many miles on the injectors? Injectors size and amount of wear has to be factored in. Like my old 7 x 0.0085 injectors needed a lot of timing because of being low in pop and automation was poor. Cetane and IAT temperature have to be considered. Colder air does require more timing. High cetane and fuels require less timing. Trial and error in testing your tunes. This is why I got Simply Auto App to track my changes. If you do a data log make sure it fully warmed up.

Go over to Home Depot and pick up there industrial degreaser. It's super strong and does a excellent job of getting the grease off the truck. I typically mix it up in a small garden sprayer and hose the entire front of the truck down. Engine, suspension, frame, and underside. Then power wash it all off. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Gallon-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Chapin-1-Gal-Lawn-and-Garden-and-Home-Project-Sprayer-20000/304862343

Just remember the batteries can be disconnect for YEARS and still store the error codes. Disconnecting batteries only reset the APPS position limits in the ECM. So APPS relearn needs to be done. ECM failure I'm almost sure of it.

The rest of the system is in the passenger and driver doors. The amplifiers are part of the speakers.

Prone to failure, period. The spacer is known to fail because they are not made to hold the massive torque of a Cummins. Maybe a 1/2 ton Chevy gasser. Then with the larger and wider wheel, the leverage forces tend to break the spacers. Be careful also a lot of people got for the cool factor but end up screwing up the final ratio of the axles. These axles are typically 3.55 gears with 35-inch tires that ratio drops to 3.21 and makes to much strain on the driveline. Like myself, I dropped to a 30-inch tire and change the ratio to 3.69 and one of the quickest trucks around. If you want to go up in tire size you need 4.10 axles. The optimal ratio is 3.55 to 3.73. Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) or Pyrometer is to measure the exhaust gases to hopefully prevent you from melting pistons. I found out in stock form the Dodge Cummins can produce over 1,400*F temperatures and aluminum pistons melt at 1,281*F roughly. There is other factors like oil cooler and oil jet that keep them cool but extended period you can still melt those pistons. If you towing you 4 four gauges. Boost Pressure Pyrometer Fuel Pressure Transmission Temperature I suggest ISSPro EV2 gauges which are electric and are USB programmable. They come with a warning light which you can program and alert you to problems or getting out of range. The nice part is I don't even have to look at the gauge the position of the light from the corner of my eye tells me if it boost, fuel pressure, EGT's or trans temp. No more staring at the gauge climbing grades or watching like a hawk all the time.

Edge had 3 defuel modes and 2 power modes. This was controlled on the sublevels. Which basically the 3 defuel modes worked off of 10, 15, 20 PSI boost limits. The 2 power modes were some extra fuel at near zero boost and full fuel at zero boost. Which both these setting where smoky even stock injectors. So the fuel map wasn't really all that adjustable. Then the timing map followed the main level setting. which made it bad you bound both the fuel and timing together and could separate them. This where my high idle kit and MPG fooler came in because there was no way to kick the timing down in the dead winter. MPG fooler retards 4 degrees roughly. So now you given the Quadzilla and all these limitations and bound together settings are unlocked and full freedom to set any way you wish.

You've got 35-inch tires. I'm going to assume you got 3.55 gears. That means your final ratio to the ground is 3.21:1 which is too tall of the gear ratio. The only way you can fix this problem is to get your final ratio in the 3.55 to 3.73 ratio. You would have to change your axle gearing. Like myself, I gave up the 31-inch tires (265/75 R16 or the 235/85 R16) and dropped to 30-inch tires (245/75 R16) which now makes the final ratio 3.69:1 and this truck rips. Half throttle on dry pavement it will spin the tires. Your problem is the tires pure and simple.

You could start out with the tune I built being its the closest to your 150 HP injectors and then just tweak it. As for the tool I made and use is this spreadsheet. performance tune.xlsx This spreadsheet allows me to do most of the layout and look at values quickly.

That's exactly right. Need to figure out what caused the failure. Other than that you'll continue to replace ECM and get frustrated.

You should try the Smarty touch. Quadzilla V2 is a breeze compared to Smarty Touch. Smarty Touch is even more complicated and cost 3 times as much ($1,724) as a Quadzilla sad part is it still only a +60 HP tuner (some say 100 HP). https://smartysupport.com/store/product/9-smarty-touch-kit/ For right now stay to Level 3 till you get the CANBus fixed up and timing set for what you got then you can play with the wiretap. Like I'm still testing and tweaking my latest tune. It doesn't happen overnight. You got to put the truck through its paces and fix the tune as issues are found. Like just tuning the server here on the website it doesn't just happen. It takes time and testing to find all the bugs and set the server up correctly.

The light next to the turn signal marker will operate as a hi/lo beam. The othe bulb towards the grille is only high beam. It has its own relay and fuse. Here you go...