Mopar1973Man

Another one, I seen the same problem and it turned out to be the factory stereo had failed. I would find an old speaker and probe the outputs and see if there is sound or not. This will tell you if its a stereo issue or a speaker issue.

This is why you should have the fuel pressure gauge AFTER the last filter so you can monitor the supply pressure to the VP44. This also gives you an idea of how restricted the fuel filter is and you'll see pressure fall out under load. Good clue to change the filter.

Talk to @Dynamic our site transmission guru. You'll want to to do the WT ground wire mod to protect the computers. I would suggest that the Edge Comp is ditched and look towards a Quadzilla personally. Way better control of fuel and timing over a canned tuner. With kind of mileage, I would consider having the injectors pop tested or replaced. The Raptor should hold up for some mild mods in power. I see its a 4G pump so it should hold up good. Another one to talk with @Dynamic about this shifting issue. Might want to change the fluid and adjust the bands as a starting point which will allow you to see what is in the pan bottom for debris. Could be the filter is plugging up.

Replace the battery temp sensor it controls post grid heat and battery charging. As for starting reprime the system crack 1, 3, 4 injector lines and get it running.

No problem there is a ton load. Even a Forum strictly for Quadzilla be we are the largest storehouse of Quadzilla info. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

I would pull the BD out. Most likely junk.

Might double check both the red wires. The ignition wire to the cab fuse panel might be weak. This wire is needed to hold the engine running. It back feeds ignition circuit and keeps the engine going till the Quadzilla drops the ignition then it shut down.

P1698 and 1694 are CCD network issues. The data bus is not talking between the PCM or ECM at all. So all gauges will act goofy.

Radio (premium) Remember the amplifiers are on the front speakers. Standard stereo...

One of the few reasons I love Linux. You can verify the USB connection and see the device plugged in. I know it's not very helpful. Like my example, my cell phone is plugged in. You can see my printer is a Canon. My keyboard and mouse. Etc.

Let's just say there are 52 versions of software for the PCM and ECM per year. Best off getting matching PCM and ECM for that year of truck for a manual. Smarty can flash only the ECM it cannot flash the PCM.

Yep... Just go to your local NAPA store and get the u-joints. Personally, don't bother with Spicer its not going to be last any longer. You need something you can grease. Unless you plan on pressing out the u-joints every oil change and greasing them.

articles...

Finally found a local source for the other alternator diode. I picked up one diode for now. Once I see a number of people wanting them I'll place an order for larger amount of them.

Neither of those look bad. Starting at 14.5 or 15 is fine for nearly stock injectors.

Just remove the injectors, rocker arms and pushrods. Leave the valves and springs.

Ones up top should be a sheet metal type screw. Plastic nuts in the firewall body.

What do you have for timing set up? Or upload the tune for me.

I found that cruise of 21* or so at 2k on the tach was a good spot. Once I got the injectors replaced the timing had to be retarded. Now that mine are settling it can be advanced again.

The sides of the dash near the kick panels is a self-tapping like 8mm if I remember right. Then there is 2 nuts 6mm in the center.

Like one I do quite a bit. I've got one earbud in and listening to music. Hop out of the truck and walk around to the back side of the house to open the man door. At this point, my earbud reports back "Disconnected". Then continue to walk over open the garage door and hop back in the truck in a mere 1 second the earbud hooked back up and play music again. iQuad... Rather sad. Walk away with my cellphone upstairs and just a few feet away. All data stops, disconnects. Walk back upstairs in range of the truck again. Struggles to connect. Stop, restart the app multiple times. But my dumb $39 Bluetooth stereo can be heard playing my MP3 off my phone. The cheap China Made Bluetooth stereo never lost connection.

I got to say it should be revisited. With all my bluetooth devices. My bluetooth earbuds, bluetooth stereo, Bluetooth OBDII etc. iQuad app is the only app that sits there and struggles for connection. I can be up stairs and find out I left my earbuds turned on because there is no sound. Walk near my truck with my phone and the ignition turned on it automagically switches to the stereo for a phone call. iQuad. No connection. No connection. restart, No connection. Restart no connection. It's the app for sure.

So in my case, I measure the NV4500 on the driver side (away from the exhaust pipe) and measure on the case which mine is a reddish color and measure from bottom to top. Still in all without coolers at all and the gear ratio (final) that I'm running it super rare for me to break over 100*F yet. Like yesterday I touched 105*F but had to be sitting in traffic to get that warm. If I measure I pull over, leave the engine run and measure on the driver side. Starting at the bottom work to the top. Still in all the top is the warmest place on the case right near the top of the fluid. The absolute hottest place to measure is right near the gear teeth. This requires the engine off and probe thermometer and place the probe near the gear teeth.

Funny... Harbor Freight IR temp guns come with this adjustment as well. Black colors seem to be hotter typically.

Mine didn't have the baked coolant caught it super early during an inspection. Mine showed up dripping within a mere 30 minutes after pumping it up cold.