Mopar1973Man

Needle valve for a shut off then stack the snubber on the valve. You'll be good.

21.32 MPG... I'm on my way to my high mark.

60 MPH is 1820 RPM for me. Then this tank should be killer 260 miles and only used a quarter tank. We will see...

65k miles. Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 - one year.

Personally, I'd never go back to the stock defused lens. Like on the 1996 Dodge 1500 I when with a clear lens.

Because the Smarty S-03 is designed for those injectors. Stock injerctors. RV275 injectors are so small you can get away with the Smarty. Now like Pepsi71Ocean he's running +100 HP injectors. Now if Smarty locks to 18* on my truck that would be too retarded. I'm upwards of 26* at cruise now and now getting into the good MPG numbers and super low EGT's. Where Smarty comes up short. (Add +1 to speed) (Subtract -50 from EGT's for correct EGT's)

Never blown a tire yet either on the truck or a trailer. Trailer tires typically last up to the 5 year limit with me. My BigTex has got the longest with China Bombs on Load Range C's and lots of treat but past the 5 year time period. Now it gets dangerous.

Tires. Ratio. It struggling against them. Do you have another set of tires you can swap temporarily?

Whatever is cheap. Mostly China Bombs what I buy... Just never seen one fail yet. My trick is I never buy a tire that is marginal and never inflate to max pressure so simple.

All the tools and information is here just gotta look around there is over 18 GB of web data here.

Math out your capacity and then the capacity of the tires. If you are too tight to the capacity of the tires go up another load range to F's. Like on my RV they installed Load Range D's and barely could hold the weight the tire where at capacity 90% loaded. So I went up to load range E's and now got lots of margin of room and don't have to run the tires at max pressure to cover the weight. This is a good thing.

The headlights on our truck... +12V -> Fuse -> Bulb <- Multifunction switch <- Headlight switch <- GROUND Our headlight switch controls the ground. The dimmer switch toggles the ground to the lo or hi legs. Now if you just pony up and go to Morimoto HIDs then that whole problem goes away. Lightweight 35w HID bulbs, the power is drawn straight from the battery. Everything is controlled by a single relay. I've done the Sport headlights. By the original design, you need 4 fuses and 4 relays. Then converting everything over to that system which still you end up with more electrical load on high beams you drawing 17 Amps total at 240 watts for four 60w high beam bulbs burning.

Did you do the diagnostic work out of the P0122 code in the error code page?

I'm doing some serious research into cruise timing and how far can you go. Being I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar this makes my injection event a bit later than normal. My current timing is... Now I've got cruise timing set to 6° with a load of 22%. This give me a max cruise timing of 26° at 0% engine load and 24° at 22%. I'm very surprised of how low you can drive the EGT's my 55 MPH EGT hovers in at about 400-450°F and 60 MPH is barely 500°F to 550°F. Boost sits at nearly zero boost at 55 MPH and 60 MPH just barely 2 PSI. I'm well into the 20 MPG bracket now been reaching 320 to 340 miles at a half tank. Still fighting a lot of bitter cold for startup. Morning travel could be as low as 28°F. Always seem as the IAT breaks over the 100°F realm the MPG jumps up really strong. Like yesterday it maxed out at 81°F outside in Ontario, OR. wonderful weather! As for going any higher, I'm going to use a bit of common sense here. I've already found that 27° to 28° realm is as fair as the engine can go under WOT. Being the cruise timing can max out at 26° at zero engine load but hovers about 24° in a cruise state. For 60 MPH cruising engine load hovers in at 15% to 18%. Idle now at 12 to 13% bouncing. Anything below 17% is gravy the MPG is through the roof in the high 20's and heading for 30 MPG. My safety net is my engine load boundary of 22% keeps me only in the 55 to 65 MPH realm and low engine loads. Once it jumps to 23% it drops to mere 18° of timing and turbo is spooling. I've been trying to build at 60 MPH as a set speed. I'm doing this strictly for the economy study work and find out what can be had from these engines for maximum efficiency. With the price of diesel now at 2.999 a gallon and still rising time to find out how much can we get out of these ISB Cummins. I've found now with timing this high for cruise state even the coolant temperatures are down even. Haven't figured that out yet and cooldown of the turbo is even faster now. Idles much less. DISCLAIMER: I do not suggest following this unless you have the supporting mods and understanding. You've been warned! This was reaching out for 65 MPH and seeing what it would do on semi-flat ground. Add +1 to speed for actual speed. Subtract -50*F from the EGT for real number.

NV4500 you are not bound to hold to that fluid any longer. Just like Dodge dealers are now filling both NV4500 or NV5600 with ATF+4. This proves that there is nothing special in either transmission. The viscosity can impact the shift quality. Like I'm running 50 weight which is more like 90 Gear lube but no issues all the way down to -40*F winter temps shifts fine. The syncros require GL-4 that it. Everything else doesn't matter. I went for the heavier weight fluid for summertime towing and heavy hauling I do for firewood and trailer towing. The light stuff thins out way too fast in summer working heat. Now with the change up the tires and final ratio my trans temps have been lower.

Depends on how it's wired and what kind of lights you are using. Like my HID headlights are half of the power draw at a 35w now. Then the driving likes are a mere 18w now compared to the four 100w spotlights I was using. Then marker lights from the old 18w down to 3w in LEDs. Always best to use lighting with lower wattage requirements than going with more heavy light. I use to have problems with the four 100w spotlights blowing fuses, burning up relays, and just eating bulbs every 6 to 9 months. Now converted to HID and LED problems are gone. Using relays and separate fuses to power optional lights are the only way to go. Way less loading on the alternator and batteries.

Drive out to Idaho claim your prize. No shipping allowed.

If I remember right it's the firmware issue. Flash the newest version 2.8.4.

Not sure but is a error with the software for sure. I've got in contact with the software author.

The factory fluid is no longer manufactured...

Tryin' Lowest was towing the RV to Parma. Next one was city driving for a week. Then now back to normal hauls.

Know the feeling... As for tunes... I've managed to pull EGTs down to 500°F at 60 MPH. In town at 35 MPH it barely 350°F. I think I might reach back to mid 20s yet.

Mobil SAE 50 GL-4 transmission fluid what I'm running. The same stuff used in Eaton Fuller transmission in big trucks. Only spec you have to meet is synthetic GL-4.