Mopar1973Man

Here is where I'm at... NOTE: -50°F on Quadzilla to match my ISSPro EGT gauge. Then +1 MPH to match my GPS and cluster. Running down I-84 in the trucker lane at 70 MPH with traffic. Remember I'm running 320 bar on pop pressure. 7 x 0.010 injectors and ARP studs. Shocker to pull EGT's down to just below 600°F in EGT's at 70 MPH.

Most likely have a suction air leak or possibly the starter is turning over too slow because the starter worn out or batteries are too weak. Most likely sucking air being you can start it on ether but it fails to keep running.

Higher timing = Lower EGT's At least on my 24V I'm running 26° of timing at 2,000 RPM in cruise state. Making in the 20 to 22 MPG now. There is other things like my pop pressure is up at 320 bar so I need more timing for the late injectors. Being you've got a P-pump you are going to get very experienced in setting timing being that is the key factor to good MPG. NOTE: -50°F for the pyro to be right with my ISSPro Gauge then +1 MPH to right with my GPS.

No, I already have seen the same lights on a local truck here. The only difference he went cheap with the H1 mini lens. Now as for the bumper gap that most likely because I was too lazy to fight to line up the bumper exactly. Got it close by myself and called it good. I came out on top being that D2S lens cast way more light than the H1 mini lens do. I also opted for the 35w bulbs and ballast which is for longevity reasons where there is a 50w option too but you shorten the life of the bulbs. Skipped all the demon eyes and other optional stuff and stayed basic and focused more so on longevity and performance.

Gear puller.

1973 Dodge Charger SE - 400 CID was replaced with a 383 CID. 727 torqflite 3 speed transmission.

Right off of Carlisle manufacture website. https://www.gallaghertire.com/about/carlisle-st-faq

Trader...

Need to see live data tool that tach on the dash isn't all that accurate.

Depends on how much timing is on that p-pump on where the EGT's might land.

Time to make a block off gasket. I was doing that back in the 1980's for the older 1970's cars in Cally. Use to sneak right on through the smog check and pass easily.

OMG!

In my case, it wasn't the sensor. It was the unit bearing tone ring failed. Way to see without expensive tools. If the speedometer is acting goofy its the rear sensor. If the brakes pull one side or the other it's a front sensor or if the speedometer is not acting goofy. Always replace the fronts as pairs. If that doesn't work the unit bearing need replacing.

Actually, on the last tank of fuel it was only off by -0.1 gallons. (359 miles / 17.882 gal = 20.14 MPG) Bucking serious winds 20-25 MPH. Cruise timing limit is cut at 22%. Remember I'm popped at 320 bar so the injectors are late. On I-84 set the cruise control for 70 MPH in the trucker lane. Still up there around 24 MPG. This is +7 cruise timing. 245's tires and 2,100 on the tach for mere 16% engine load. BOOYAH! (Doing my "Can't Touch This" dance...)

Yeah, it could but you going to have to work around the Hotrod timing advancement. Which you unable to control that static timing boost. So you going to amp up the retard side to get spool of the turbo.

Hotrod pumps are not good for tuners.

Mine went up in price quite a bit being I went from the H1 Mini's to D2S lens which has a bigger lens. Then the freight I had it increased to 2nd day to get them fast. Total of $720.

No. You can run headless. I love doing that quite a bit that way other people have no idea. I've still got my gauges on the a-pillar. Most of it you can do in realtime just watching the display. Then you need to listen to the might Cummins it will talk to you and tell you what it wants. Crazy Suggestion: Since your running studs already crank that cruise timing up for the daily driver tune. I'm now up to +7 degrees and doing excellent. Just past 21.32 MPG and still rising. EGT's are super low. Just math out you 1.5k and 2k band with the plus of the cruise number and make sure you stay below your largest amount of timing. (safety suggestion). Like my truck can run up to about 27 or 28 degrees maxed out on timing then the buck starts above that. This is my last step up cruise timing and where I'll stop. Do also remember I'm running 320 bar on the injectors so my event is late already.

Had to deal with rain last night and rising river water again. I don't think it will get as bad but had my alert up for me. Turning green out here and all my Vegan Animals keep showing up. Like this morning turkeys roaming the yard for breakfast. Then yesterday morning it was all the deer looking for something to munch on.

You buy them separately and install them your self and save quite a bit. I know @Me78569 can answer that part. I bought mine as a completed kit which was just bolt on and wire up. https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO

Something is wrong there. Idle is set for 800 RPM. If it's down to 750 RPM there is a problem.

Nope, that's about right. Now compared to me that is high. If you want to experiment with me. Start pushing the cruise timing up one degree at a time. Watch the EGT's and Engine Load. Then watch the MPG's. I'm all the way up to +7 cruise timing now for experimenting. Subtract -50 from the EGT's to match my ISSPro Gauge. Add +1 MPH to match my clutster and GPS.

Should of bought a quality headlight.