Mopar1973Man

Yeah I'm continue to study about cannabis and curing my cancer. What a amazing the more I dig the more I uncover the fact our Gov't made it illegal so big pharma could make a profit with man made drugs that don't work. Like Chemo... https://ehealthmagz.org/cannabinoid-oil-saves-babys-life-dissolves-brain-cancer-after-family-rejects-chemo/ https://ehealthmagz.org/rick-simpson-cured-over-5000-cancer-patients-with-this-recipe/ https://ehealthmagz.org/cancer-institute-finally-admits-marijuana-kills-cancer/ https://ehealthmagz.org/more-evidence-cancer-commits-suicide-by-eating-itself-after-exposure-to-cannabis/ Be aware big pharma synthetic cannabis will put you in the hospital. https://ehealthmagz.org/big-pharma-synthetic-marijuana-leaves-2-dead-89-hospitalized-in-illinois-2/ https://www.flowsent.com/anti-pot-senator-gets-cancer-decides-medical-marijuana-not-so-bad/ https://ehealthmagz.org/12-reasons-why-you-should-smoke-weed-everyday/ https://ehealthmagz.org/cannabis-cures-cancer-not-chemotherapy-and-empty-promisescannabis-oil-cancer-treatment/ https://ehealthmagz.org/cannabis-kills-all-types-of-cancer-cells-that-science-has-tested-so-far/ Alcohol vs. Cannabis https://ehealthmagz.org/cannabis-smokers-are-far-less-of-a-threat-to-society-than-drunks/ Being I'm a bladder cancer patient.

Even the cheap stock pump can too. Still in all you needing more volume and constant pressure. You need to keep a high return volume for the cooling and lubrication process. Like I'm burning roughly 2.5 to 2.8 GPH through the injectors even with 150 HP injectors and Quadzilla tuner. WOT I can pass 25 GPH burnt easy. Still you need 70% of the total volume returned to the tank to meet Bosch standards (Not Dodge or Cummins but Bosch).

243k miles on my last VP44. Then 250k miles out of my AirDog pump. Peace of mind PRICELESS... It only truly open above 14 PSI. Once it hits 10 PSI is completely closed. To keep it lubed and cooled properly you need to keep the overflow valve open. The return port is small so you can blow the front seal out of the VP44 by going above 20 PSI. I know some will claim they been to 30 PSI with no problem but its a gamble. Pull the overflow valve out and look at the port is small! I don't know of any other pumps that can pump 100 GPH or 150 GPH or better. Just remember stock was 60 GPH roughly.

No. Actually they reduced the fuel pressure with the intank pump and claimed it had better volume. Truthfully it didn't have the pressure or the volume at all. The only 2 electric pumps that can keep up is the AirDog and FASS. Mechanical pump options are out there too but look at the kit with a electric priming pump. I know that @AH64ID would say those are below par for filter media. Donaldson or Fleetguard 3 micron filters. I think there is a few others that make the 3 micron list. Running out of fuel or low in fuel pressure on VP44 is just like running out of oil in the engine or running low oil pressure.

Typo.

Personally I think you going to find a puppy out there with Cummins put on a set of those and does a burn out and it just shreds in pieces. Then another puppy with go out mudding with a set and get rock and gravel caught up in the ribs of the tire and have it fail or damage the wheel. Flying down the street and hit a pothole and ruin a wheel. I just don't see them being an answer for our truck till semi-trucks and racing types get on board.

Too low of fuel pressure. Should of been 14 to 20 PSI to keep the overflow valve open. At 10 to 14 PSI the overflow valve isn't open enough to keep it cooled and lubricated. This is a reason why VP44 has such poor live spans in the beginning the lift pump barely could hold this in stock form. Just remember Blue Chip does not have a Bosch 815 test stand to calibrate VP44. All his injection pump have to be shipped out. Another member informed me of this while back. Then how are you sure you PSG flashed? or was the PSG reused? (Blue Chip option). Here is the list I've compiled from the help of the members. Kind of hard to rebuild VP44 without a Bosch 815 test stand. Most likely the timing piston is galling up and jamming up. Also could be low fuel pressure and not enough to move it when commanded.

You might want to hop over there and talk to them. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/ They give support right here on the website as well.

One our truck there should be just a few connections. CANBus MAP sensor VP44 wiretap (if tuner has the connection) Some odd ball tuners actually hook up to the APPS sensor too. As for the Quadzilla tuning it took me 3 years to figure it all out. As for building the best tune that will take months of testing and data capturing to figure out what works best for your truck. Personally I'll never go back to a canned tuner. Just a waste of time being that none of the canned tuners can adjust timing properly for larger injectors. Always have smoke issues because of lack of proper fuel management.

Yup hes got his diode pack.

Nope ratio is wrong. 66 MPH in top gear (5th at 0.75:1) I'm twisting 2,000 RPM perfect. Difference is I'm doing better than 20 MPG which I doubt your getting with 35-inch tires. Nope. Not in top gear you not. I'm pretty sure not in MPG either. 65 MPH is ~1980 RPM in 5th gear making roughly 20-22 MPG. 55 MPH is ~1760 RPM in 5th gear making roughly 23-25 MPG.

All the Smarty does is ramp up the APPS value to reach 100% fuel sooner that's all. Where it comes up short is being able to run SW9 and then shape the lead in fueling to taper back below 100% to control smoke. Then you would have you max fuel but since you can't the only thing you can do is cut fuel completely back by running lower SW number.

Either way manual or automatic both transmission basically have the same top two gears.

Nothing I can see here from the server side.

Yup. Diesels sold before they hit the dirt... Tough to get engine stuff that way.

The salvage yards are selling the Dodge Ram trucks before they even hit the dirt. I've try a few different times and always had troubles getting lucky to even see a Dodge Ram in the salvage yards.

In his mobile chicken coop. Gotta keep the raccoons and foxes out.

Either the charge stud comes out the side or out the back.

You could be defeat the purpose of owning a Smarty why would you buy a Quadzilla just a monitor a Smarty timing?

Like most highway not interstates are 55 to 65 MPH out here. 55 MPH is 1,800 RPM roughly then 66 MPH is perfect 2,000 RPM. Even though my 80 MPH is 2,500 RPM still beating 19.5 MPG roughly. If I set for 60 MPH it turn out 21 MPG or very close. Depends on weather, traffic, road construction.

That self-sticking sealant patch will work for a temporary time and them leak. I had a small one on my roof it failed started leaking so I did the next best thing and never had a leak again. What I'm going to post next most will freak out. I used silicone and it sealed the leak and has remained sealed for years now. I've got 2 small holes with silicone on them no issues. Silicone bound to the rubber and not peeling or leaking. Where that patch material eventually peeled off. Another junk product I've got no love for. Eternabond White RV Rubber Roof Seal As for the peel... Dicor coatings don't last long.

@015point9 I would just recoat that roof. Mine looks the same way. Dark spots and white coating wearing off. Just don't use Dicor Coating that crap sucks. I followed the instructions and bought over $200 worth of primer and coating to have it start to peel now 4 years later. Stuff is junk. Take soff brush or broom and soap and water and lightly wash the top of the roof. Then using a power washer with a wider angle nozzle and keeping back a foot from the roof you can power wash the roof clean. As for roof replacement for @IBMobile sad part is you'll start to peel up the existing roof and find out there is more damage. This where it end up costing more and labor intensive. You'll have to repair or replace all the damaged frame and wood. Then you can lay down a new roof rubber and make sure it glued down properly. Other than that you'll have what happen to @MnTom where his roof balloon up and peeled loose and ripped on his RV. As for roof materials I had an aluminum roof on my 1976 Dodge Jamboree motorhome and it sucked. Electrolysis ate holes in the roof metal small pin holes. Spent tons of time with sealants and all kinds of redneck idea. The worst part was the seems would open to the flexing of the body. Rubber roof at least will stretch and move for body movement and stay watertight.

Neat valve... That would be awesome to set the ratio to front and rear braking.

Yup. That varies from state to state. Lucky. Just a cop hearing the Powerstroke with a whistling turbo is enough to get him to pull you over. Locally there is a change that if you delete a truck a deal will not take as a trade in. For the dealer to sell a deleted truck put him at risk of the Federal fine for selling deleted vehicles. There are some deleted but not many up here being that Boise area actually smogs diesel trucks and inspects for DPF and EGR equipment. Out where I'm at is safe for delete.

Here you go... 29 for the pair. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/back-up-light-bulb/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/12873/?year=2002&make=22&model=1351&scc_id=1427